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question about power for subs..

Discussion in 'Explorer Audio & Navigation' started by Mike, September 20, 2002.

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    1. Mike

      Mike Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      i just installed my new system yesterday... and when the bass hits... every light in the truck dims.... now this is not that powerfull of a system... its only a 2 channel 760w amp.. what could this be? i dont have the power wire for the amp to the bet... it goes to the power block behind the batt.. could this be why? i just have not had time to move it... what do you guys think?


      Mike
       
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    3. Tatternuts

      Tatternuts Elite Explorer

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      760 watt amp is enough to dim your car lights.... what is the amp draw on your amp??? It sounds to me like your alternator can't keep up with your stereo system, you may need a cap or a larger alternator. just my 2 cents....
       
    4. pband599

      pband599 New Member

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      Buy a Cap., I will fix that problem. I would suggest at least 1 Farad or maybe 1.5, it works like a battery for your amp, it stores the juice, then when the bass hits that deep note, the amp won't have to pull juice from the battery, it gets it from the cap then the battery. It should cost about $100 for a good one, like Lightining Audio or Phoenix Gold. Just install it inline with the power in to your amp.

      [battery]---[cap]---[amp]

      Hope this helps.
       
    5. DVS1

      DVS1 Active Member

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      Hey Mikke,

      I agree with pband599 a Cap is the fix.....and I just happen to have a couple of very good 1 farad caps for sale !:D ....check my post under the for sale section
       
    6. Rscotts1

      Rscotts1 Elite Explorer

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      I have two Rockford amps powering my system (approx 1320 Watts) and have no dimming at all. Installing a Cap is only a TEMPORARY FIX and will eventually only add to your problems. The Cap will need to be charged as well which is an additional draw on your electrical system!! What size power/ground are you using? Could be that you are not using the proper gauge wire. Not too sure on the location you mentioned, but the best way is to come straight from your battery. Also, you should upgrade your grounds in the engine compartment using the same gauge as your power wire: new ground from battery to chassis, new ground from chassis to engine. Good luck.
       
    7. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      hook it strait from the batt because you are drawing current from all your other elect. acc. that should do a fix. I am running a 700w amp in my 95 x and it doesn't blink a light
       
    8. nonameputs

      nonameputs Active Member

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      Rscotts1, how is a cap only a temp fix?
       
    9. pband599

      pband599 New Member

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      TA-RUE!!
       
    10. B94Sport

      B94Sport Well-Known Member

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      Caps themselves are a drain on the battery/alternator, and they do not charge up instantly... They can take anywhere from 5 seconds to a minute depending on the size of the cap. Why is this a problem? How often do you have bass notes spaced very far apart? Almost never. If you have a HUGE system and want to add a cap to it, the most efficient way of doing it would be to buy a bunch of small (1/2 farad) caps and wire them all together in parallel so that they function like one capacitor when dischaging but all charge seperately and thus faster. Of course, that would be very expensive and take up a lot of space. If you have electrical power problems, your best bet is a high output alternator (or more) because the only thing that powers your system is the alternator when the car is running. The battery is just a reserve and a cap is just a band-aid. Caps will help, but they are not the only part of the solution.

      And yes, I do have a cap. A 3 farad one. But I also have a 200 amp alternator and 1/0 gauge power, ground, and alternator wiring for everything. Running at 2300 watts, I only get slight dimming when I turn the system up all the way (too loud to be sitting inside of the car without hearing protection) and it is not moving. If the truck is moving and the alternator is not spinning at an idle speed, then I have no dimming problems whatsoever.

      A 760 watt amp, assuming your alternator is functioning correctly and putting out 14.4 volts, will draw only 52 amps of current. I believe that if you have current draw of more than 60% of your alternator's output capacity, you will have problems. Even if you have the 95 amp alternator, you should be fine... I suggest you upgrade your wiring to a larger gauge, or possibly replace your alternator with a 130 amp (if you have the 95 amp) or even spring for the 200 amp. 760 watts does not need a cap by any means.
       
      Last edited: September 23, 2002
    11. B94Sport

      B94Sport Well-Known Member

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      I just noticed that you have a 2001... Then you definitely have the 130 amp alternator. You should not be getting dimming lights with a 130 amp alternator and a 760 watt amp. What gauge wiring are you using to run to the amp and its ground? How long is the wire from the battery to the amp, and how long is the wire from the amp to its grounding point?
       
    12. sk1er17

      sk1er17 My "Jeep Thing" itches...

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      I have a 98X with a system that pulls around 1200 watts, not to mention all the other "stuff" i have hooked up directly to my battery. It's still stock and everything works perfect. I agree with Rscotts1 and anyone who stated the same idea as him... run power directly from batt to the amp, also check the guage wire you're running and make sure the ground is good.

      www.geocities.com/sk1er17
       

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