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Question about the Factory Subwoofer

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by Huntsman06, April 23, 2017.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    So I am casually pondering the idea of adding the original factory subwoofer to my 04 XLT. Most of what I've found online says I should buy a new aftermarket sub and an enclosure to fit it. I have seen various listings on eBay for anywhere from $50 to $100 for the factory subwoofer and factory amp going with it, which is quite a bit cheaper than the aftermarkets I've looked at, but I can't find anything about some kind of enclosure or mount it uses to mount with. I never came across the harness for the sub either. So,

    1) Do all 3rd gens have the mounting points in the back for the OEM Subwoofer (assuming one finds it and the screws/bolts as well for it)

    2) The wiring harness. I know my Explorer has no wiring for the subwoofer--that's fine I can make one--but I don't know what the pigtail ends that go into the head unit and/or the pigtail that goes into the subwoofer is called and, thus, I can't find them. Do such a wiring harness (or the pigtails needed for me to make one) exist in the market or am I SOL?
     
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  3. Number Twelve

    Number Twelve Active Member

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    I would definitely go to the junk yard and get the container that fits in the space just because making one or guessing which after market woofer will fit is unnecessary and self defeating. The OEM works just fine as far as I'm concerned, but I'm old.:D While you're there, snatch as much wiring harness and connectors as you can get. The interior panels are mostly snap-fit. Take a small putty knife to lever them out, a set of small metric sockets in the 7mm to 10mm range and some Torx bits. I would guess the sub-woofie wiring runs along the passenger side to the front because I've been under the carpet and no wires approach the center console from the passenger side.
     
  4. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    The wiring for the signal from the head unit is already there. I have a XLS and it was there.

    [​IMG]

    One potential problem.

    Are you planning to use a aftermarket headunit?

    If not you'll need a factory headunit that actually has the subwoofer output. Since you'd have to replace the headunit anyway with a headunit with subwoofer output you might as well buy a aftermarket headunit.

    Then all you need is this wiring harness.

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705519/Metra-70-5519-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html

    https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-5519-Wiring-Harness-Mustang/dp/B0002BETKY/
     
    Last edited: April 24, 2017
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  5. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    That's quite the helpful diagram, thanks! I'm going to head over the to junkyard Thursday afternoon and see what they've got for me. I'll report back here with whatever I find!
     
  6. Number4

    Number4 "I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad." Elite Explorer

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    Your stock head unit probably won't have an output for the amp.

    You could pick up a head unit that does.

    Stereo, wiring, sub enclosure, sub, AMP, rear interior quarter panel, associated screws.

    Now, part of the harness varies depending on the existence of a rear entertainment system, get one without it. You'll also want to remove the front passenger (and maybe rear) seat belt lower mounts screws. Think it's a T45. Else you'll have to cut and splice the wiring.

    Better option, stock system sucks no question. Grab the sub enclosure and the rear quarter panel. Put in aftermarket head unit and sub. Run your own wiring. Of course, look for an Ex where this is already done. Though most will have been snagged by the yard rats.

    You'll need a shallow mount sub (expensive) or make a 1-2" wooden collar to mount a regular 8" sub to. (Extends the depth will fitting behind the quarter panel.)
     
  7. WaterBrat

    WaterBrat Member

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  8. Ddudley84

    Ddudley84 Dudley

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    I just hade all my rear panels apart and took a bunch of pics hope they help. If I was you ther is a company that makes a panel for that side that looks stock but you can put in a aftermarket ten' sub and that would be a lot easer to hook up but not sure on price it would sound a look better and be a lot easer to do.



    Sorry just realized the seat belt thing is blocking some stuff

    20170415_113258.jpg
     
  9. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    Oh cool! Sadly I didn't get off work until late last night but I'm off today so I'm going hit up the yard here around lunch time. Wish me luck!
     
  10. Ddudley84

    Ddudley84 Dudley

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    One thing you going to run in to is the rear seat belt bolts go thru that panel ther hard to get out mine wher rusted in it took heat to get them out
     
  11. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    Well you could not have been more right about those seatbelt bolts. Good news though, I found an 03 with subwoofer, the plastic panel, AND the original stereo (so all the wiring was in place and uncut) today! Bad news, I neglected to bring the tools (honestly of all the things NOT to be in the toolbox right where I left it...or probably left it) I needed and wasn't able to get the seat belt bolt out to remove the panel and and thus I couldn't get the amp nor the subwoofer. The yard didn't have a ton of Gen 3s, only 4 of them, and they were picked pretty clean but nobody was really interested in the stuff I was going for it seems. All of them had been picked pretty clean in the front but everything was almost untouched in the back, so I'm crossing my fingers the amp & subwoofer will still be there when I go back next week with the tools.

    on a side note, the plastic trim that connects to the seatbelt itself at the top, is there anyone who is familiar with how to get those off "properly"? Obviously, I'm more than happy to take a prybar and work them till they come off in the yard but when I get to stripping my own explorer I am going to be much more delicate. I was able to see the clips just fine after they were off and, to me, they looked like they just pulled straight out. Either they require a lot more force than I was expecting, or there is a better technique then prying with the ol' screwdriver.
     
  12. Ddudley84

    Ddudley84 Dudley

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    They kinda pop out and up at the same time to go in I struggled with it in till my friend pointed out that it goes in to the body hole also the air bag worry me I didn't want to use to much force.practice on the junk yard ones frist.
     
  13. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    :confused2: Gen 3s had rear airbags? Well now I'm rather worried about taking it off if I manage to get that amp and subwoofer next week.
     
  14. Ddudley84

    Ddudley84 Dudley

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    Ther in the selling. I was surprised too I didn't know in till I seen the sticker
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2017
  15. Number4

    Number4 "I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad." Elite Explorer

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    Almost all interior panels come off with just your hands. No need for pry bars etc..
     
  16. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    Made it back to the junkyard today to get the subwoofer. Started out great! Sunny day, cool breeze, not a ton of people around. That T50 seatbelt bolt by the door was pretty bad though! It came off..sorta. I actually broke my T50 socket and had to run and buy a new one (Habor Freight to the rescue!) and that + some liquid wrench was enough to get it off....kinda. The bolt came out but it was rusted to the body and took almost a perfect 1/8" ring of the metal along with it (honestly I thought it was a washer at first). Not a problem since but I hope my Explorer doesn't have the same issue.

    Overall that it was a great day! Got the woofer and also the plastic trim to swap. The woofer was mounted with only 3 bolts, 2 of them were just nuts screwed into bolts that were part of the body and the third was an actual bolt that had a really weird clip that hooked into a square opening on the body. Mounting won't be too hard though, I am probably gonna have to drill two little holes and that's it.


    [​IMG]


    As for the wiring, I snagged about 6" from the harness behind the dash to go into the stereo but I got the entire harness going from the amp, across the side of the car, all the way to under the glove box where it plugged into something. No cutting required for removal, but I'll for sure have to cut it later. I'm going to try and at least put the subwoofer & the new panel in later today (mostly for storage reasons, mom & dad aren't too big on car parts in my bedroom :laugh:) and I'll figure out the harness soon as I can. That diagram a few posts above is perfect though, it should save me a lot of work.


    Question though (thanks Ddudley for the picture)

    [​IMG]



    you can see in this picture (and I also saw it at the yard) there is a black fabric cover that sits between the subwoofer and the and the exterior panel. The obvious purpose to me is just simple insulation. I'm hoping my explorer actually has that already, but if it doesn't, is it at at special? I could have torn it out at the yard but decided against it. If it's just insulation I'll steal the stuff from my old plastic panel unless that stuff is special in some way. I think I'm being overly cautious but I really don't want to put this all together and then have to take it apart again.
     
  17. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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  18. Ddudley84

    Ddudley84 Dudley

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    Yeah sorry I didn't give you more of a warning about that bolt I also broke my friends mac T50. What we did to get it out was heat it carefully with a torch for a min and it came out.
    I have a stock explorer with no sub and I have insalation ther so I don't see why you wouldn't if worse comes to worse go to auto store they have stereo insalation that's expensive or any kinda of heat insalation would work what you should focus on is mounting the sub to the truck. When the sub hits it uses the wall to make the boom so make sure you secure it good to the truck so you get the effect your looking for.
    By the way when I put those back in they didn't tighten tight they went in all the way but not tight for me I didn't care but you might want to get new ones.
     
  19. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    She's in boys!

    [​IMG]

    To my delight, behind the panel, the bolts were already there mounted effortlessly (the black cover I was worried about was also there, so that's good). The seatbelt bolts were only a small bit rusted and went in and out perfectly. Only real issue was the plastic trim that houses the passenger front seat belt. I wanted to fish the wires underneath everything while I had the chance (which went wonderfully) and I had to take that bit of plastic off just for a bit to pull up on the lower panel to fish the wire under. Now, I cannot seem to get that stupid plastic cover back on! I did some looking online for pictures and mine is identical to the brand new ones--so it isn't broken, but I cannot for the life of me get it to go back on. After about 45 minutes of trying I gave up. It's still attached just a bit loose near the bottom. T

    Now it's not totally done, I still have to get the wiring all finished. For now, the harness runs from the sub under the floor up to the glove box. The plastic clips intended to hold it were already there so I just clipped it in to keep it out of the way. The audio will be pretty easy to wire up but I'm debating on how to do the ground and power for the subwoofer. That can be a later project though. I'm tired, hungery, and most of the skin on my fingers is gone :thumbsup: (I should really consider getting over my hatred of gloves...)
     
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  20. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    Looks good! Don't forget to upgrade all your door speakers if you have not already. Remember, the factory sub system was not just a sub but better door speakers and a 4 channel amp I believe...

    I have these: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-4-Way-Stereo-Speakers-TS-A6886R/dp/B016P03XAM/

    Wonderful set, the specs on amazon are wrong, they are 60W RMS each, I'm wanting to get a 4 channel amp for them soon since head unit's don't put out very much wattage.

    I'm leaning towards this one, it's small enough to fit in the dash somewhere.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B43LKV0/
     
  21. Huntsman06

    Huntsman06 New Member

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    Back again. I have held off wiring in the woofer until I got a radio harness extension in the mail (that way I can splice into that and leave the car's wiring uncut/spliced) and, following the diagram in the earlier post, everything has been pretty straightforward. The question is regarding the "shielding" that was part of the harness. Common sense tells me that it's just meant to keep electrical noise out of the audio wires but should I be splicing that in like the rest? The shielding looks and feels like any of the other wires except that it's obviously not the same copper color so I doubt I should just use the copper I've used for everything else. Thoughts?
     

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