R12 to R134a Conversion Questions

[lydenw]

Ok, so I'm thinking about getting my '93 converted from R12 to R134.

Two Questions:

How much should I expect to pay for a mechanic to do the job?

and

Would it be cheaper to buy one of the $30 conversion kits from the autoparts store? And do these kits really work?

 

[fixxxer]

The conversion "kits" are usually the adapters to convert the low side port to R134a type fitting and a new hose to attach a can of refrigerant but you still have a problem with evacuating the old R12 Freon, it has to be recycled properly, you can't just let it vent out to the air and if you do, it is a federal offense with a very stiff fine and associated jail term. The old refrigerant needs to be collected and at the very least, the old oil removed (contaminated with the R12 and non-compatible with the R134a refrigerant) all leaks fixed and then a vacuum applied to prep the compressor for the new refrigerant. This is not a do-it-yourself job for most people. It takes permits and specialized equipment and training to do that conversion safely and properly.

 

[surf]

I was recently quoted $250 - $275 to have this done by both a Ford dealer and an independent shop.

 

[lydenw]

Thanks alot guys,

Fixxer:

Would it be so terrible to just buy and use of of these kits without the above mentioned steps?

What would happen if I didn't remove the old oil and get the compressor vacumed, and just hooked the kit up and put the R134 into the R12 system?

FYI: I got the compressor on the Explorer now from a junkyard and had to pull it myself. I'm not sure if I commited a crime, but the compressor let out a lot of collant when I disconnected it. That said, the old unit had locked up and hadn't worked in several years. What are the chances the system is clear of any R12 right now since it hasn't been used for so long?

 

[fixxxer]

The R12 Freon produces hydroflouric acid when exposed to the moisture in the air. It's one of the few acids powerful enough to erode glass. The seals inside of the compressor and condensor would probably be pretty well shot, you might be able to get new seals for your a/c unit but a new receiver/drier will need to be brazed onto the condensor tubing and a vacuum pump hooked up and run for at least 24-48 hours to make sure all the moisture is gone from the system or you will end up with all that new refrigerant leaking out within a few days or weeks and holes in all the tubing and condensor.

 

[Robrt32]

Ive done a few.. the " professionals " will say what I done wont work but it did for me.... On 2 different cars the compressor were bad.. I got compressors from a junk yard, bolted it on, got the conversion kit and went with it.. I pulled no vacume or changed anything other than the compressor.. BOTH worked fine.. this may or may not work for you

 

[RangerX]

Here's the definitive thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77331