Radio LED display fix!!!

[Buyford]

Hey Eagleisx: thanks 4 the reply,what kind did u get and any pics and how much?

 

[Eagleisx]

Upgrade

Hey Buyford,I went with an upgraded Pioneer system,it has all the output i need and it was around $1200.00 installed with Four replacement spkrs. Sorry no pics.Take Care. Eagleisx

 

[Buyford]

Hey Eagle, thanks but thats way 2 expensive for me, i was hoping like $300/$400.

Take care Bill

 

[CDW6212R]

The Mach and Premium are real Pioneer radios, the equal to any aftermarket radio in those years. The repair is about $60 done professionally with a permanent part(the display board).

The stock radios will not attract thieves like a loud aftermarket radio. Save the Mach and Premium radios, some people will appreciate them. Regards,

 

[packfan12]

Here is the easiest and cheapest fix if you don't know how to solder!

After reading post after post and doing hours of research online about fixing the LED display problem in the Ford radio here is the best and easiest way to fix it. There is a guy on eBay that will fix it for you for $45 plus shipping. Comes out to be around $75 for the fix and shipping both ways, and he has a lifetime guarantee that the display will never go out again or he will fix it for free, killer deal. His eBay username is biscaynekid, or you can do a search for Ford CD Radio display repair. He has fixed over 600 of these things already. He fixes it the same day he receives and the next its back out in the mail to you. The next problem was trying to get the damn radio out. Don't waste your time using a clothes hanger - they are not strong enough. Go to Wal-Mart and get the Scorse DIN Radio Removal Tool for $2.94. After trying for about an hour with a clothes hanger I went to Wal-Mart and bought that and I got the radio within 5 seconds. When you insert the radio removal key push the keys outwards (left key to the driver side and right key to the passenger side) - while you are pushing the keys outward, you have to pull back at the same time. Here is a short but GREAT video on youtube that saved me from punching my radio in. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC-4NbXvDQ . I hope this helped. I thought I was going to have to buy a new stereo and Best Buy said they would install it for like $350 total. This is the best option if you dont know how to solder. Any questions just ask and I will try n further assit

 

[alpo]

I want to thank the folks for the tips on repairing the display problem. Mine in my '98 XLT was intermittent for a long time then finally went out for good. I cleaned up the back of that circuit board and resoldered the heat sink connections: good as new!

 

[digijim]

It's 2010 and I finally got around to fixing the display. Used the instructions I found here on page 5. Thanks to The_Real_Doc! I'm no expert on soldering boards, so I only soldered the bank with R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064 and one other where I spotted a crack in the solder. I also soldered two of the RF Shield connection. I hope it lasts!

 

[melman]

The display in the original radio in my '98 went out in 2002. (Shortly after I bought the extended warranty which did not cover the electronics.) I whined enough that the dealer fixed it for only $100.

Not too long after that, I found the www.shareamemory.com/radio instructions and saved them to my computer. (Which used to be free but now cost $20? For simple instructions on fixing a 12-year-old radio?)

I'm glad I saved the directions, as my display began to have problems recently. At startup, it flickers a few times and eventually comes to life. I almost never use the radio any more, I listen to my Ipod instead. I only use the radio for the clock. I was going to buy a cheap clock, but I decided to try the repair instuctions. I resoldered the R1057/etc. components and now the display comes on right away. We'll see if it lasts.

BTW, for several years this radio wants to eject a CD when there's no CD in it. (You can hear the eject motor running every few seconds.) To deal with this, I simply leave a CD in the radio. Anyone else have this problem?

 

[Toucan]

As I had posted earlier I had fixed mine. But on placing it back in the dash I shorted out something and the face plate got damaged. I ended up purchasing another one on e-bay. Almost an year and still going great. I have save the old one should come across a face plate....

Once you do the proper cleaning and sound soldering it should work for a very long time.

On the cd issue try spraying it with the electronic cleaner spray. There might be some dirt somewhere.

Cheers

 

[KC]

I just bought an '01 EB to replace my '99 that got totalled last year and of course, the radio display was DOA. It took me all of 45 minutes to remove the head unit, open it, remove the power supply board & re-solder, then re-assemble/re-install. Display is working great! Page 5 is the key here, folks. And as I mentioned on that page you really need to de-solder the 5 or 6 light blue colored power resistors, push them up from the board then re-solder. I really think that's what causes the problem. The OEM has these resistors pushed right down on the board so all the heat transfers direct to the board causing the failure of the solder joints. If you raise these up and re-solder then you have removed the heat source.

By the way, this is my third X and all three have had this display problem...

 

[melman]

Within a couple days, mine went back to acting exactly as it had before. Either I didn't resolder the right components or I did a lousy job (or both).

Since the display flickers for about a minute before coming on, it seems that the heat from the high-power resistors actually helps the broken joints (wherever they are) to connect. And that if I lifted the resistors off the board, the display might never come on?

 

[KC]

Heat = Expansion = Conductivity = Display. Kind of the same thing that happens when someone just "cleans" the board. Raising the resistors will prevent the heat from affecting the solder joints over time. What I have seen on all 3 of the ones I have reworked is mainly the block of chips under the one power resistor that is off by itself along one side of the board are the ones that have failed joints. But a good description is if the solder looks dull or "dry". A good solder joint should look like chrome.

 

[melman]

Well, I tried again. I tried to be much more careful about the 5 surface-mount R's and C's. I also raised the two resistors (on one, I could see the marking "2W" so it's a high-power resistor) that straddle the 8-pin IC on the other side of the board. Two of the attach points for the RF shield were broken and I fixed those too. Crossing my fingers yet again. I'm starting to fear that I'll tinker with this until I melt a trace and break the board beyond repair.

 

[CDW6212R]

At what point is the cheap solder method not good compared to paying for a new power board to be installed? The new boards are redesigned without the many defects of all of the original parts. What is so bad about paying around $60 in total for a repair that should never need future concern?

 

[melman]

I like to try to fix things that are fixable. I work in electronics, although I haven't used a soldering iron in many years. So I give it a try. It's just a matter of finding the right component that is loose. It's easy work if you know how. I like the smell of melting solder, and so far I haven't burned my fingertips or wrecked the board. Pretty cheap entertainment if you ask me.

Where can you get a new board for $60? I have checked several threads here and looked up all the repair sites mentioned. Pioneer sells the HWM0043 kit for $127 including tax and shipping. VideoServiceStop in Mass. quotes $97 for repair. Speed-O-Tach's email is broken. The rest of the repair sites are out of business.

 

[BigRondo]

Melman, I appreciate that you, as well as me, like to fix things that are fixable. But if you are missing your tunes why not pick up and after market HU and "fix" your issue by installing the new HU in your truck? Just a thought.

----- Rondo

 

[melman]

All I really need is the clock. Yes, I can buy a stick-on clock for $2.

As it stands currently, my display comes on at start-up. After 30 seconds to a minute, it goes totally out. Then a minute or two later, it comes back on, and stays on. I can live with that if it doesn't get worse.

Before I started tinkering, it would come on for a few seconds and then flicker on/off for about a minute. So clearly I changed "something" but still haven't really fixed the problem. I'll just keep re-soldering things until I get it right. There are a few components mounted on the top of the board, I guess I'll remove the shield and touch those up too.

And as to why I don't just buy another radio? I have the Mach system. There are two connectors in the back with approx. 30 wires. I understand that there's a separate subwoofer and maybe an amp somewhere too. It's supposed to be a high quality Pioneer system (except for the display). I'm not going to buy a new radio, and wiring adapters, and probably a faceplate adapter too. Not in a 12 year old truck. I'd buy the replacement display driver board if I could get it for under $100, but I wouldn't go higher than that.

 

[CDW6212R]

The links people have posted for the repair or to buy the board are very old I'm sure. The board used to be available but you had to be three at a time, for about $75. The $60 repair cost was for the part, shipping, labor, and profit. I think the man who did mine will not do it any longer. He fixed anything in those, but I think some people were too much trouble, it was a fun side business that he liked to do.

 

[scucci]

These guys may still have the parts:
http://www.speedometerservice.com/services.php

 

[melman]

I should probably keep my mouth shut, but I think my last round of re-soldering worked. I touched up a few surface mount parts on the top side of the board, and I also got the 8-pin IC on the bottom (directly underneath one of those big blue resistors, which are now lifted up from the board a little bit). 2 days so far and no problems.

So now it's on to my next conquest. I'm off to look for threads on floppy door handles...