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Radius Arm Bushing

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by baphomet666, July 27, 2011.

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    1. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      Hello everyone

      I have to replace the "Radius Arm Bushing" on my EXPLORER 94.
      Could you tell me what is the best quality between the rubber and the polyurethane.
      Could you also tell me the name of a good quality for these parts?
      Beck Arnley, Ingalls. or what else.
      Thank you for your help

      if you can give a link to buy the parts, thank you very much


      :exp::exp:
       
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    3. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Polyurethane should last longer than rubber. I have a set of the Energy Suspension brand that I'd be happy to sell. PM me if you are interested.
       
    4. Turdle

      Turdle Has Pleasure Chamber Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    5. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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    6. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Moog also make a set of adjustable Caster Radius Arm bushings. I've tried them and they do let you adjust the caster BUT, if your doing hard off-road you can shatter them and of course, its normally the off-road rigs (lifted) that need caster help.

      ~Mark
       
    7. Turdle

      Turdle Has Pleasure Chamber Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      wait--are we discussing the radius arm bushing to the frame bracket, or, the radius arm c bushings on the axle?
       
    8. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I'm talking about the one at the end of the Radius arm, where it connects to a frame bracket.

      There is no "bushing" where the Radius arm meets the axle beams on the dana 35 ttb.

      This is the kinda that I've broken. Its a harder material than even the poly ones. They sell the Caster adjusting bushing per side. Here is a pic of the parts for one side via rockauto (its in their camber/caster bushing section)

      [​IMG]

      ~Mark
       
    9. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: big thank you all for every the explanations


      with your experience you have any advice to give me what I should buy to replace my old. many roads and paths especially of mud and stone ever major road

      a picture would apreciate, thank you very much for your help


      :exp::exp:
       
    10. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Personally, I liked the Moog Problem solver rubber bushings but we wheel our X. I ran the Poly ones before (read, cheap poly) and they did not last once we started wheeling.

      ~Mark
       
    11. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      :thumbsup: Thank you very much Mr Maniak

      :exp::exp:
       
    12. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      Replace Radius Arm Bushing


      Please,
      to replace Radius Arm Bushing
      i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

      I decision to replace radius arm bushing
      not pierce or remove the rivets.
      just Simply by pulling on the front axle
      Thank you very much for your explanation and advices, or what else

      :exp::exp:

       
    13. scoarch

      scoarch New Member

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      i have replaced bushings both ways and think it is worth it to remove the rivets.
      it is not hard to do with the right tools. ie a cold chisel and a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel.
      just cut a x in the rivet head and chisel off then punch out remaining piece.

      then if you have to replace them again it is real easy.
      just make sure you use grade 8 hardware to bolt it back together
       
    14. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      Thank you very much Mr scoarch
      But i not understand you, the Google translator say to me ( in French )
      " assurez-vous juste que vous utilisez la 8 e année du matériel pour le boulon de ".
      This for me do not want to tell me?
      you rather explain the importance of the diameter of bolts and nuts,that's what you want to explain to me .
      if you want to explain this, can give me the diameter of bolts and nuts to use ** thank you very much for your advice

      ** In FRANCE diameter bolts and nuts are differents
      with kindness you can give the conversion sorry for the inconvenience,.
      but a translator is not always easy to understand everything ;);)


      :exp::exp:
       
    15. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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    16. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      :thumbsup:ok, thank you very much MR Ronin8002.
      i understand your explanation.

      Could you give me other explanation please
      I must buy Grade 8 bolt capability in yield (stretch) or Grade 8 bolt capability in tension (failure) i think Ultimate Shear Capability of Fastener (ksi) are the best .
      you are ok with me MR Ronin8002.
      ultimate question please.
      so far I have not disconnected the arm radius
      i think best bought in first Grade 8 bolt could you say what Fastener Diameter I have to take for my truck please.
      It's difficult for me for read this measurement chart.

      Thank you very much for your explanations and advices
      sorry for this inconvenience

      :exp::exp:
       
    17. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      The grade 8 bolts have different strength ratings depending on whether the load is a tensile load or a shear load. With radius arms both types of load will be put on the bolt. Do not be concerned about these numbers.

      You just need to replace the original bolt with a grade 8 bolt of equal size.
       
    18. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      Ok MR Ronin8002,

      Sorry but i don't understand " grade 8 bolt " is not similar here in France.
      ho thin I'm really sorry to bother you


      :exp::exp:
       
    19. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      In the US, nuts and bolts are available in 2 common grades: Grade 5 and Grade 8. This refers to the general strength of the nut and bolt.

      Grade 5 is what someone might use for a non-critical task. Grade 5 is commonly silver color, zinc coated.

      Grade 8 is a stronger alloy, usually amber or yellow colored.

      If you tell your supplier it is for your suspension and needs to be strong, they should give you the correct type of bolt. The metric equivelant is Class 10.9, and your bolts should be marked 10.9.

      So, US grade 8 = metric class 10.9
       
    20. geosnooker2000

      geosnooker2000 Active Member

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      Maybe buy your bolts from an American distributor on line? Just a thought.
       
    21. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      :thumbsup: Ok Mr Roadrunner777 i undterstand your answer, Thank you very much

      :thumbsup: Ok Mr geosnooker2000 now i search distributor on line i found, Thank you very much


      [​IMG]

      Grade 8 10.9 metric looks like this model please

      :exp::exp:
       
    22. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      Your photograph is a grade 8 bolt, as signified by the 6 lines on the head of the bolt.
       
    23. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      :banghead:Thin I will not get there, I must be a bit stupid at the edges :rolleyes:
      It is those bolts good there or not
      Thank you very much


      :exp::exp:
       
    24. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    25. michael22

      michael22 New Member

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      When these poly RA bushing are replaced ; do you put any lubricant on them ?
       
    26. baphomet666

      baphomet666 Active Member

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      Yes i put grease

      :exp::exp:
       

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