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Radius arm make over

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by DB_1, December 21, 2004.

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    1. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      I've decided to try and see if I can get some kind of flex out of my set up so the plan is to sleeve my current radius arms with 1 3/8" ODx 7/8" ID .250 wall DOM and put 3/4 heims on the ends.
      I've fabbed up some brackets from 3/8" plate steel and I ended up changing my design so I had to use the material I had already bought for the project. It would have been a lot easier to use the main plate coming off the frame with some 2 1/2" square tubing with a tab coming off of the bottom but oh well.
      The radius arm brackets will mount just behind the tranny X-member with 4 bolts on the side and 2 on the underside of the frame. I'll eventually make a removable crossmember to tie the radius arms together.
      I got all the heims, heim hardware and DOM tubing fron spidertrax.com. They have these heim dust boots i'm gonna try out too...couldn't hurt.

      So here's some pics...first one you'll see what i have to work with on my truck. That radius arm is hanging there on it's own and if I put some weight on it, it doesn't go down much further if at all so you can imagine what that's doing for flex or lack therof.
      Next pic is a template of the main plate i'm working from and the rest of the pics are the finished brackets ready for paint.
       

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      Last edited: December 21, 2004
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    3. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      more pics

      I'm gonna work on getting these mounted today and i'll try and pics of that.
       

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    4. Trckmagik

      Trckmagik Ole Bag Moderator Emeritus

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      Very nice work sir... You wanna make me some? :)
       
    5. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      What about your lift height and springs? too stiff for your Ranger?

      Those brackets look sick, nice job!
       
    6. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Thanks guys!
      Trckmagik,
      I can send you the dimensions of the template if you want. If you have access to a plasma cutter that would make the job a whole lot easier, I went through 10 cut off wheels on my 4" grinder :eek: If I were to do it differently i'd use 2 1/2" square tubing like I mentioned before then cut a tab
      that matches the the profile of the bottom half of the main plate. So in other words you'd only have to cut 2 pieces instead of the 5 like I did :confused:

      410,
      For now I'm gonna keep the ride height as is, I really like having the space that i have now between the diff and the engine crossmember. As for springs, I'm looking into Fox's new 2.5" air shocks...they are supposed to have twice the weight capacity as the 2" but I need get more info on them.
      I figure if i can get some decent flex out of it after all that, it will make up for the tippyness it had.
      Here's a pic of the radius arm mocked up and ready for welding.
       

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    7. RangerX

      RangerX Elite Ranger Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Dave, what's the before and after length on those arms?

      Brackets look pretty F'n beefy! :thumbsup:
       
    8. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      The original stud on the arm ends roughly about halfway through the tubing so they're about 6 or 7 inches longer than what I started with.
       
    9. Diff Whack Daddy

      Diff Whack Daddy And the Roll Over Posse! Under the Hood Moderator Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Where are those radius arm from. They look like a hybrid Superlift arm for a stock TTB with solid dana 44 c bushings on the end.
       
    10. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Those arms are from the infamous Fabritech kit...you can't see it too well in the picture but I moved the shock mounts from above the arm to the side so I could fit a longer shock (as well as longer shock mounts on the frame).
       
    11. Felix

      Felix Active Member

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      good looking work Dave. I think we have talked about doing something like that for how many months now :). Anyway, hurry up so I can use your welder :D LOL.
       
    12. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      I got the holes drilled for the brackets and welded up the extentions on the radius arms. Tomorrow everything will be installed and i'll get some pics up.
       
    13. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Hope everybody had a great X-mas :D

      I finally got my rig back together and i can actually use 4wd now! I took the truck out for a test drive in a dirt lot by my house and broke in the new gears in a little. i went to flip the hubs and I must have left the pass side locked when I installed them because when I flipped it into 4hi, I could feel that nothing was happening in the front so i got back out to check the hubs again and sure enough the pass side was unlocked...doh! :confused:
      As for flex, it's not a whole lot better than before but that's because of the stiff TTB coils and I knew that going into the build. The arms have freedom of movement though so the potential is there. I'm happy with the way it turned out though and i'm glad I did it.

      Here's a pic with the arms installed:
       

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    14. Trckmagik

      Trckmagik Ole Bag Moderator Emeritus

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      Very nice.......
       
    15. RangerX

      RangerX Elite Ranger Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      All this time you've hadd TTB coils in there!?! :confused: Didn't that Fabritech kit come with new springs? How about some Wild Horses 3.5" VR coils?
       
    16. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      The Fabritech kit allows you to use your existing TTB coils so i'd have to do some modifications to the bottom retainers to fit the wider EB coils as well as replace the coils buckets which is what I was going to do originally but now i'm looking into air shocks...Felix has my WH coils now :p
       
    17. Stic-o

      Stic-o Elite Movie Star Elite Explorer

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      Very nice Dave! Now I just need a beater to drive and lots of money so I can start mine! :D
       
    18. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Stic-o...as for your SAS, all in due time :thumbsup:
       
    19. Felix

      Felix Active Member

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      Looks really good Dave. Now I just need to get my self back into gear. You think you are ready to do that extention mod to my radius arms after truck haven? :D
       
    20. Stic-o

      Stic-o Elite Movie Star Elite Explorer

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      Hey Dave Duff has there 3.5 progressive coil, I'm thinking of going with these.

      [​IMG]

      + there only $117 bucks ;)
       
    21. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Sure Felix,
      but i'll let you do all the cuttin' :p

      Stic-o, I've heard good things about the JD and the WH progressive rate coils but I'm gonna try out the new Fox 2.5" air shocks, all I have to do is zap some tabs on my spring pads and make some shock hoops so I figure that'll be a little easier than getting the coil buckets/shock mounts to work plus they'll flex as good as coilovers.
       
    22. Byrd91

      Byrd91 Elite Explorer

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      I'm going to give some advice here that is totally theoretical because I don't have an SAS, but some (a lot) of the solid axle flex problem comes from having two radius arms (one on each side). Unlike the TTB in which the radius arms are independent of each other, on a solid axle the radius arms are redundant. They are both performing the same function, and since the axle is solid, unlike the TTB, they will bind no matter how long the RA are. Thats why you see a 3, 4, 5 links, etc, and more specifically wristed radius arms. Just think about what your axle does on extension or compression, it follows an arc. If one wheel is going up and the other down there is a twisting force on the axle ( solid ) because the two radius arms are going the opposite way in the arc. All of your flex is in your C bushings. To test the theory grab a pencil (axle) with your fingers (radius arms) and move it like an axle flexing. Your fingers have to slip to allow articulation, the RA bushing mounts at the frame have less to do with it than the radius arms. People like to make pins to make wristed arms more road friendly but I don't "think" that those are even necessary.

      The difference it makes:
      http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270094&highlight=wristed


      And an idea that I didn't even think of but that would be perfect for you and more stable on the road.

      http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294387&highlight=wristed

      Sorry for the hijack.
       
    23. Felix

      Felix Active Member

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      You are correct in aspect of it. Yes the non wristed arms with the solid axle or non wristed axle and solid arms act like a sway bar. The reason for making the arms longer is to reduce caster and the arching motion when the system cycles. This also eases the binding by giving more rotational torque from making the arms longer and making the axle move more to create the same amount of binding force.

      Not trying to hi-jack DB_1's thread and not knowing if he has the same idea as me or not. I am going to extend my arms with hiem joint mounts and wrist the passenger side one also. This will in essence releave all the bushing bind the front axle can produce.

      I am not an enginer but have pretty good understanding of mechanics and have talked to many fabricators for off road systems for the Early Broncos. This is pretty much what they have told me also. I think that I just made it take more words than it should have.
       
    24. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      flex as good as coilovers only because you are removing the spring and the shock mount and replacing them both with a single axis mouting point = freedom!

      Air shocks seem to be a good choice for a rock crawler, trail truck, but what about those long drives to the trail??

      Looking very nice Dave, wrist that arm and you will find hapiness.....

      If I ever go SAS (I love the TTB, when its set up right) I will do a true 4 link to help eliminate the need for the wristed arm......
       
    25. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      All very good points and well taken but I have to disagree with you on your point about the RA bushings at the frame having less to do with limiting flex than anything else. I would say, in my case anyways that it was limiting it equally if not more than anything else. As my first pic shows, the radius arm is hanging by the stud in the bushings and only allowed for 2 maybe 3 inches of up or down travel before the urethane is totally compressed. Not what I call total freedom of movement. I will agree that the front C-bushings limit movement but more on a twisting axis than anything else and now thats where my flex is now limited. So i've relieved some up and down movement but now the twisting action of the C-bushings is the binding point. I figure if I can relieve one of those binding points I can achieve better flex than what I started with. I'm not out to be a ramp champ and will never be as long as I run what I have. If I could do it all over again...3 or 4 link plain and simple, i've seen enough of them in action and work very well.
      The radius arm I have would take more fabbing to make it work, it would be easier for me to get the standard issue EB cast arm and go from there. I just wanted to improve what I had already since I've invested a lot of money into it..

      Yeah Jaime, i've heard they arent to road friendly and that may be the one thing that prevents me from getting them. I was thinking if a torsion style sway bar like Currie's anti-rock would help on road manners any.
       
      Last edited: December 30, 2004
    26. bmxking5

      bmxking5 Well-Known Member

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      Very nice job, DB_1 :thumbsup:
       

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