I figure that since I've done this twice (once to regear and once to install a locker) and figured out a faster [than the book] way to do this, that I should share my info. It took me about 1.5 hrs to drop and the same time to reinstall the second time.
1) Jack up passenger side; remove tire; remove center cap on tire; remount tire with two or three lug nuts; set back down and remove axle nut that is now accessible; (Its at 200+ ft/lbs so you need a good long breaker bar) jack up again; remove tire; set jack stand under A arm; remove brake caliper; remove shock; remove ABS wire from clips
2) Unhook front driveshaft
3) Start up engine and carefully turn wheels to the right to near full lock
4) mark alignment cams (on upper A arm bolts) with current rotation so that you don’t screw up your alignment when reinstalled; remove upper A arm bolts (note: in any book it will say to separate the upper A arm from the spindle but I could never get this joint apart on either side the first time I did this); spindle will now fall out allowing you to remove half axle from hub assembly (if it doesn't come out like shown it the picture, jack the truck up from the cross-member allowing the passenger A arm to droop more)
EDIT: Like it mentions later in this thread, it is easier to remove the upper ball joint, rather than the A-arm. You just need to remove the pinch bolt completely to get it loose, which I never tried.
5) using a pry-bar or large screwdriver between the axle housing and inner CV, being careful not to damage the seal, pry the two apart (you’ll feel it click and move ½”); remove half axle being careful not to damage bearings in housing (Warning: Gear oil will start leaking out this opening now)
6) pry driver side half axle just like passenger side; place jack under diff and remove three bolts holding diff; carefully lower diff while moving it to the passenger side until you’re able to remove driver side half axle from housing; as soon as breather tube is accessible remove it from housing
7) install locker, etc
Reinstall by reversing procedure
1) Jack up passenger side; remove tire; remove center cap on tire; remount tire with two or three lug nuts; set back down and remove axle nut that is now accessible; (Its at 200+ ft/lbs so you need a good long breaker bar) jack up again; remove tire; set jack stand under A arm; remove brake caliper; remove shock; remove ABS wire from clips
2) Unhook front driveshaft
3) Start up engine and carefully turn wheels to the right to near full lock
4) mark alignment cams (on upper A arm bolts) with current rotation so that you don’t screw up your alignment when reinstalled; remove upper A arm bolts (note: in any book it will say to separate the upper A arm from the spindle but I could never get this joint apart on either side the first time I did this); spindle will now fall out allowing you to remove half axle from hub assembly (if it doesn't come out like shown it the picture, jack the truck up from the cross-member allowing the passenger A arm to droop more)
EDIT: Like it mentions later in this thread, it is easier to remove the upper ball joint, rather than the A-arm. You just need to remove the pinch bolt completely to get it loose, which I never tried.
5) using a pry-bar or large screwdriver between the axle housing and inner CV, being careful not to damage the seal, pry the two apart (you’ll feel it click and move ½”); remove half axle being careful not to damage bearings in housing (Warning: Gear oil will start leaking out this opening now)
6) pry driver side half axle just like passenger side; place jack under diff and remove three bolts holding diff; carefully lower diff while moving it to the passenger side until you’re able to remove driver side half axle from housing; as soon as breather tube is accessible remove it from housing
7) install locker, etc
Reinstall by reversing procedure
Once the stub is free, thats when you take the axle nut all the way off. (it will stop the end of the axle from getting bigger from the pounding) You have a gear puller or a big 3 jaw puller?
