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Removing radiator from condensor on a 5.0?

Discussion in 'A/C & Heater systems - HVAC' started by beach, December 1, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. beach

    beach Active Member

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    Mount/Ex/Fusion/boat lol
    I got the top clip off, but can't get the middle one out, theres no way to reach it at an angle to push it out :mad:

    I'm gonna track down the engineer that designed this and drop kick them
     
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  3. rizzjc

    rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    OK, try this:

    Passenger side: I believe you have to pull up, and get this out of the bracket it is sitting in.
    [​IMG]

    This the driver side clip:
    [​IMG]

    You need to slide the radiator toward the passenger side, until this clip clears. It's hard to get enough movement out of it, but keep at it - it will go. I'm pretty sure that's all there is to it. I don't remember any "middle" clip.
     
  4. beach

    beach Active Member

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    yeh the passenger side I have clear, the drivers side I'm stuck. Where's that clip you show at the bottom? If you look at the pic I just posted before, you can see the top clip and middle one circled.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. 410Fortune

    410Fortune River season Staff Member Moderator

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    what hes saying is one side has those clips (you have already un done) the other side has a slidey thingy that goes up and down, it slides UP like 2" before it will release
     
  6. rizzjc

    rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    If you have the passenger side clear, then I think all you have to do is slide the whole thing toward the passenger side to get the driver's side clear. I think you can now move the whole assembly toward the driver's side, and then slide the radiator toward the passenger side to get enough clearance. If the whole assembly does not move right now, then I think you missed a bolt somewhere.
     
  7. beach

    beach Active Member

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    I got that MOFO out :D . Lot of yanking, and cursing...seems to work. I see where I could have made it easier as I could have tied back some of the lines so they didn't keep getting caught on the radiator when pulling out. At that point I didn't care as I was gonna rip it out no matter what was attached lol.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: December 2, 2008
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  8. rizzjc

    rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    See? Easy, right? :D
     
  9. beach

    beach Active Member

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    I think it would have been easier kidnapping whatever engineer designed this, torture them, and have them do it and see how they like their design.
     
  10. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  11. beach

    beach Active Member

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    If you look at the pic above that has the clips circled. The lower one in the middle was a beotch. There's no room to really pry it out. I actually forgot how I got it out finally, I think I moved the ac lines on the driver side to the right, while reaching my hand in as far as it would go to push the radiator to the left while holding the condenser in place. Not easy as pushing it also caused it to get hooked/caught on the passenger side. Next time I'll tie the shroud away better, and tie all the lines away as the angles they come in at catch the radiator and fins. It finally just came loose, but then was still a beotch to pull out as it was getting caught on everything.

    You can see that wood beam in the radiator pic, I put that there with a bucket that has rubber braces on each side to support the bottom of the radiator. As I almost dropped it when trying to pull out and it held it up, put that there as I was worried if that happened it would crack/damage the trans lines on the passenger bottom side.

    Friends of ours own a big mechanic shop down here, great rep. Work on everything from normal trucks to exotics, basically told me every time he gets an Explorer/Mountaineer in he dreads it, he said the same thing I thought...that you would think working on a Ford truck would be easy.
     
  12. rizzjc

    rizzjc Scubajoe - Radio Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    People say that, but I have a Toyota van, and listen to my brother who works on his Toyota truck. There's a lot of stuff there that is NOT easier and makes no sense. Like the two belts on the van, instead of one serpentine belt, and no tensioner, so I have to adjust the stupid thing every 6 months. Remember, the grass is always greener on the other side. ;)
     
  13. beach

    beach Active Member

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    Forgot, didn't have time to install it till today. Def a 2 person job, but lost of cursing, banging, and kicking helps if your by yourself :D . Got the new radiator, and had a tough time as the clips wouldn't go in. Took it out and shave each part of the clips on the radiator, and went in much more easily. I noticed the same thing on the original, they have too much plastic to where the plastic basically is binding/compressing. No wonder its so tough to get out, and almost impossible to put back in. Easiest way is to do drivers side first but only about half way and I left the bottom clip out, than go to drivers side and use a plier or whatever to get that clip in, then go back and do the bottom clip on the drivers side and jiggle it a bit to make sure its set right on the mounts. If you do the driver side all the way 1st to hard doing the passenger, and if you do the passenger clip first its impossible to do the passenger side without almost breaking the a/c lines as theres no enough play.

    Now just have to flush her out and some other stuff tomorrow and make sure no leaks. Plus I bought some extra hose to cut and connect to heater inlet hose to install the t-flush since Ford decided to curve both down at an angle behind the engine unlike almost every other vehicle coming out straight.
     
  14. 1998Exp

    1998Exp Well-Known Member

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    Just removed the radiator (nothing wrong with it; needed room for my impact wrench to remove the harmonic balancer). It's a significant hassle, but definitely possible. Here is the proper order of disconnecting it from the condenser, 'by the book':
    1) Remove the three bolts at the top, disconnect the coolant hoses, remove the overflow hose, disconnect and move aside the air inlet tube (not essential), disconnect the two transmission cooling tubes and unclip the two tubes from the bottom. In short, disconnect everything that's attached to the radiator itself and move aside anything on which it can catch on the way up.
    2) Unbuckle the large 'funny pack' clip on the bottom of the passenger side. It has to clear completely, which takes pushing it out about 2". It will feel like something needs to break for it to come out, but if you are careful, the plastic frame around the condenser will just slip out, and nothing will break.
    3) Unbuckle the 'rattle clip' on the bottom of the driver side. It's similar to the 'funny pack' one, but much smaller and shorter. This one is a breeze.
    4) Slide the condenser horizontally about 2" to the passenger side, until both clips on the top disengage. This takes some gentle wiggling. The driver side clip is a bit longer, so it will be last.
    5) Make sure both top clips are completely disengaged and the radiator is free, then pull it straight up.
     
  15. naneville

    naneville New Member

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    You Can Change the radiator on a 5.0L Explorer

    I just replaced the radiator on my 2001 Ford Explorer and found the information in this thread to be very helpful. Hopefully what I learned by doing the job will benefit someone else contemplating it. If you reached this forum through an Internet search let me say don’t be over intimidated or afraid of all the horror stories you read on the Internet about replacing the radiator in a 5.0L. All these tend to do is knock your self confidence down and make you doubt your ability to do the job. Believe me, you can do it and do it right. Carefully read this entire thread (not just my post, but the entire thread) which will give you valuable insight how. After reading some of the posts in other forums I was tempted to have it done by a garage, but the thought of paying $600 to $700 to replace a radiator just didn't sit well with me. So I ordered a TYC-2308 radiator from Amazon Warehouse Deals for $84 which was described as used, like new. I figured someone ordered it and couldn't complete the job and returned it because it looked new to me. Amazon sells a new TYC-2308 for around $132. The radiator is a perfect fit. The only thing I needed to do was remove two rubber mounting grommets from the old radiator and I used the old radiator cap, both which fit perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2308-Alum..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1318800453&sr=1-1


    The entire job cost me around $200 with a new fan, belt, hoses, and antifreeze. Also, if you haven’t changed your thermostat or had your cooling system flushed in a while now is a good time.


    Let me say that the job wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I had some doubt going in because of everything I read on the Internet. Don't get me wrong, it still took about 5 hours from start to finish and can be accomplished by anyone with decent mechanical skills. I did the job with the help of my wife who has none.


    1) Remove the plastic splash shield and the A/C line bracket.

    2) Drain the radiator.

    3) While it is draining remove the transmission lines and secure the lines towards the firewall with a bungee cord so they won't interfere with the rest of the job. You will lose some transmission fluid so place a rag under the lines. It is a very miniscule amount that won't even register on the dipstick, even when the job is complete.

    4) Remove the air intake duct, top hose, and overflow hose. Some repair guides (like Hayne's) say to just remove the fan shroud and rest it towards the back on the fan, but I recommend you completely remove the shroud and the fan (these have to come out together) because this gets them out of the way and gives you a lot more room to work. I believe the extra 5-10 minutes it takes to remove them is time and effort well spent and will save you a lot frustration later on. Never having removed the fan before I was surprised how easily it loosened. Look on the fan shroud for the thread design stamp. Most will be RH (right hand) which means you tighten clockwise and loosen counterclockwise. Don't assume this and check the shroud. You will need a special wrench set to get the fan out. I rented a fan clutch wrench set from Advance Auto Parts (Powerbuilt Kit 34). Other users on this forum have also reported success using an inexpensive Performance Wrench Set Model # W80585 which can be purchased from Pep Boys or Amazon. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846) or (http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...JXGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1318853200&sr=8-5)

    Plus, take a good look at your fan. It's basically plastic. After 141K miles there were cracks at the base of the fan of my Explorer and I needed to replace it anyway (Motorcraft YA228 Radiator Fan - http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YA...YRSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318799590&sr=8-1).

    5) While optional, removing the serpentine belt does make it easier to remove the bottom hose. Plus, if you haven't changed it in a while or it is getting close now would be a good time to do so. When removing the bottom hose have a bucket ready.

    6) Remove three bolts holding the radiator and condenser in (two on the passenger side and one on the driver side, ALL on top). Also, this is optional but you can also remove the plastic shield surrounding the hood latch which will give you better access to the condenser and may help when sliding it to separate it from the radiator.



    Now you are ready for the fun part. Take a good look at the photo below (this is the radiator I removed). This is the front of the radiator which you cannot see because it is attached the condenser. Also, take a good look at your new radiator. Once the three bolts are removed from the top the only thing holding the radiator in are four clips on the condenser. One clip on the bottom passenger side, one clip on the bottom driver's side, and two horizontal clips top and center both on the driver's side. Circled in the photo are the clip mounts. The clips themselves are on the condenser.



    [​IMG]




    7) Start with the clip on the passenger side. In the lower left bottom corner of the photo you will see a slot where the clip mates to the radiator. It’s a fanny pack clip which you can squeeze with your hands (I did) or a small pair of pliers and slowly push the condenser forward while pulling the radiator gently back and then either slide the radiator a little bit to the driver's side or slide the condenser just a little to the passenger side (it won't take much) until the clip clears the radiator. Otherwise the clip has a tendency to re-insert itself back into the radiator mount. Once this clip is undone, use some bungee cords to support the condenser. I wrapped a bungee cord under the metal lines on both sides of the vehicle and hooked those to holes in the front of the vehicle. The right length bungee cords will have some stretch which will still allow you to move the condenser and also keeps it from drooping after it is separated from the radiator. This may be being overly cautious but i wanted to protect the condenser and lines at all cost. My radiator was leaking and I didn't want to compound my problem.

    8) After the passenger clip is removed, there is a small anti-rattle clip on the bottom of the driver’s side that separates from the radiator very easily. If you look carefully at the photo all the way towards the bottom right you will see a small horizontal channel mount where this clip attaches. I separated it by simply pulling slightly on the radiator. Popped right out. Chances are it may have already come undone when I was pulling the bottom of the radiator away from the condenser on the passenger side.

    9) The only thing holding the condenser to the radiator at this point are two horizontal clips on the driver's side. Look at the photo and you will see two clip slide mounts below and to the right the neck of the radiator. Slide the condenser to the passenger side as far as it will go while sliding the radiator towards the driver’s side. Do not manhandle it because you don't want to damage the condenser lines. However, they are partly rubber and have some play which will help in separating the condenser from the radiator. It will take some moving and slight wiggling but with some patience it will separate. Finesse it out. Angling the radiator and condenser ever so slightly on the driver's side towards the firewall will help. The key here is patience, don’t get in a hurry. Once the radiator is detached lift it straight up and out and the condenser should be hanging securely by the bungee cords. You have reached a milestone in the replacement. Take a break.

    10) To install your new radiator start with the two horizontal clips. With the radiator out, angle the condenser ever so slightly towards the firewall on the driver’s side. Again, not much because you don't want to stress the condenser lines. This will make it a just little easier to mate the horizontal clips. Be patient because this will take some wiggling and repositioning but, once the clips on the condenser line up to the mounts on the radiator it will slide together rather easily. With patience it isn't as hard as you think. It took me about 30 - 45 minutes (time flies when your having fun, yea right) to remove and replace the radiator which included a well deserved break in between.

    11) Once joined, push the bottom clips in, position the radiator on the mounts, remove the bungee cords from the condenser lines and bolt it it up using the three top bolts removed previously.

    12) Install the bottom hose, the A/C line bracket to the bottom of the radiator, the serpentine belt, the transmission lines (use some thread tape or a small amount of pipe compound), the shroud and fan if removed (these have to go in together, bolt the shroud to the radiator with the fan resting inside the shroud, and then lift and screw the fan back on which is best started underneath and then moving up top to tighten), top hose, air duct, and overflow hose. Don't install the splash shield until after you check for leaks.

    13) Be prepared to add as much as three gallons or more of antifreeze. The system will be almost empty. According to my Hayne's manual (1991 thru 2001) the coolant capacity is 12.8 to 15.7 quarts for a V8 which means this thing will suck antifreeze and seem like a bottomless pit.

    14) With the radiator cap off, start the the engine, and let it run until the radiator burps. There will be pockets of air trapped in the system. You should see the coolant level drop and may even see an air bubble or two come to the top as the system burps. Be sure to keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Refill the radiator to the top and the coolant reservoir as needed and put the radiator cap back on. I initially added a little over two gallons and noticed a slight hose collapse (air pocket) after replacing the cap which made me nervous, but everything was OK after adding close to another half a gallon of antifreeze. Don’t forget to run your heater to make sure you get the system full. If the engine runs hot there may have been another pocket of air that burped in which case you need to add more coolant. After the system is full and heated up check the overflow for signs of small bubbling which means your cap is good. Hopefully at this point you won't have any leaks (after spending a good part of my day outside working on this I consider myself fortunate in that regard). If not install the plastic splash shield. Drive the vehicle and the next day when the vehicle is cold check the radiator overflow and add more coolant as necessary.

    Congratulate yourself on a job well done and the money you saved.
     
    Last edited: October 19, 2011
  16. MercPines

    MercPines New Member

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    I Did Indeed Change the Radiator on a 5.0L!

    Was looking for help with a 1997 Merc Mountaineer and ended up in this forum. Based on all the input here, especially naneville's, the radiators are the same and the procedure to replace is almost identical. First, thanks to all for posting. Excellent info all of which got me thru the job. Here are highlights from my experience I hope will be helpful to anyone else attempting this r&r. I did the entire job myself, but an assistant would be helpful on the installation.

    1. Getting the fan/clutch off was a bit problematic for me. All the videos on the web showing an almost effortless tap with a chisel and hammer (for those without the special wrenches) or the two Ford tools made it look like the nut was just hand-tightened. Mine was a bit more work. I have no idea what the correct tool is for keeping the water pump pulley still -- there's no obvious place for a tool. There are those 4 nuts that hold the pulley on, so I managed to wedge a chisel in there between two of them, added an extension bar for more leverage and (using the special flat nut wrench and a 1/2 extension breaker bar), got the thing loose. No rust or anything like that. It was just really tight. My fan is metal, not plastic. Was still in very good condition.

    2. For some unknown reason the middle radiator slot (on the driver's side) had a set screw holding it to the condenser. Get that outta there.

    3. I bought my radiator at Autozone. I had no time to order one via the Internet. The leak was getting worse, it's my wife's car and I only had this Sunday afternoon to get it done. Yes, you can get them cheaper on-line, even with shipping (and often shipping is free). Autozone fail: the top tranny fluid connector fitting had the wrong 'O' ring, so the line leaked on reassembly. I replaced it with the old fitting from the old radiator. Problem solved.

    4. Needed 2 gallons of fluid. I put 1.4 gallons of glycol and the rest water.

    The key to getting this done was naneville's excellent write up on the condenser clips that mate into the radiator slots -- the photo helped a lot.
     
  17. RobertM700

    RobertM700 New Member

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    Thank you to all who posted on this radiator removal. Unfortunately I have been unable to get enough left/right clearance to slip the two driver side condenser tabs out of the radiator. I think perhaps the AC lines were worked on and they now seem to impede the clearance. Close maybe, but I seem to be about a 1/2 inch short. Didn't bust any knuckles, but did drop a few f bombs. So I will put it all back together. drop is some stop leak and dump the 1999 Mountaineer. Runs great but does have alot of underbody rust in the rear. I agree, a terrible design for what should be a straightforward repair. Saved a few bucks on manufacturing maybe.
     
  18. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    Why Ford did this on the 5.0 motor, I have no idea. Whats even weirder is that the 4.0 2nd gen's have a different system that is easy and works perfectly. Why this diabolical system on only the 5.0? I had my rad out (A blood letting experience, every time), and a friend showed up with the brackets off a Explorer with the 4.0. I thank @vroomzoomboom in my head every time I have had to pull my radiator (More times than I care to admit).
     
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