Replace Calipers & Bearings-How To, `96 XLT | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Replace Calipers & Bearings-How To, `96 XLT

Laura69

Active Member
Joined
June 3, 2001
Messages
73
Reaction score
0
City, State
Elgin, TX!
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Expedition
Forgive me, guys, but before I replace my calipers (assume front and rear), I wanted to find tips/warnings/great digital camera how-to's. A search didn't really find me anything.

If I've missed a perfect thread, can someone please direct me? Honest - I am not a goober! I know how to search! But after about a gazillion misses (is caliper mentioned in EVERY brake post? Sheesh), I really need some hand holding. Some warm milk might be nice, too. Sniff.

While we're chatting, I am giving thought to bearings. How to tell when they're shot (assume never touched by hands of man/woman/god since manuf), do I really have `em (Seriously. Do I?), are they front AND back, rental tools to press out, that sorta thing. I guess - er - sorta like the above. Except - ahem - I wasted so much time searching for caliper replacement that I didn't have any left to search for bearings.

Okay. So - really. Have mercy. I've done the pads. I've done the rotors. But for some reason those calipers give me the shakes. And the bearings? Oh, my friend...the single malt scotch I have applied to my nerves on that thought would boggle the mind. Er. So to speak.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Is it a 4w drive? IF it is then the front bearing are part of the spindle and the bearings if gone get replaced by replacing the whole spindle.

As for a good write up on caliper replacement, hopefully someone will pipe up with one. Since you have done a couple of the other associate parts, dealing with calipers isn't that much harder although disconnecting the lines can be difficult depending on how rusted things are. This usually results in some replacements of brakes lines along with way because the effort on the connectors.
 






Yup, it's a 4WD. The whole spindle?! That sounds...extreme. I'll have to look into that a bit further...really trying to avoid taking it to a dealership...

Yeah, I'm certain there's a concise caliper replacement thread SOMEWHERE but my searches thus far have availed me not. I remain hopeful. LOL My main concern is the disconnect and reconnect of the lines - any good tools for the task? That sorta thing. Was hoping to do them today but may wait till the weekend. And thanks to all the references in threads to that RockAuto site thang - they even have the caiper bolts! (I think one may have sheared on me...) HELL YEAH!
 






Replacing the spindles isn't very much harder.... actually in some ways easier because you don't have to deal with press on bearings and such. The big thing with the spindle are the bolts (four were hard to take off .... rust and heat make them difficult along with position on the back side of the hub ... ie. inner wheel resulting in limited movement) and the main hub nut needs a large hub nut socket (something like 32 mm... up here in canada, canadian tire loans you them for free... perhaps some part places in the states do the same).

As for calipers, if you are lucky, the brake hose / fitting will come off relatively good but check the condition of the hose for weakness which means replacement. Its usually the other end of the hose that joins the solid brake lines where things can get "out of hand" and result in you slowing have to replace brake lines toward the master cylinder because of the effort on the connectors. I recently used a little "lighter micro torch" on the brake fitting to help expand the outter fitting and this allowed me to uncouple it without breakage. Of course, you have to watch out if there is oil / flammable fuids around the area. Good luck in your effort.... it is certainly doable by a back yard mechanic.
 






If your truck is anything like mine (a '96 and from Atlanta as well), you won't have any trouble with rusted hardware. I thought I saw a thread that outlined how to remove those hub bearings. It looked pretty simple (3 bolts?) but you will have to disconnect the upper control arm at the ball joint (this can be tricky, my passenger side upper ball joint was a little frozen in the spindle) and remove that CV shaft nut (32mm = 1.125" or 1.250" - I forget). Forum member Jefe posted a thread on how to remove the front axle ("diffy") but the steps include how to disconnect the spindle. Great instructions and good pictures, too.

As for the brake hardware, get yourself a flare nut wrench (or a set of flare nut wrenches). They'll provide maximum grip on the bolt heads to prevent rounded corners. You should be able to disconnect the calipers from the brake line at the banjo bolt. You might want to replace those hoses while you're at it.

Hope this helps - Dave.
 






So how much do the spindles cost for the front 2? Also how do you know if they need to be replaced? (Besides shaking the wheel back and forth when its in the air).
 






As an FYI - the part store indicated I had to get an entire "hub assembly" replacement for the bearing work. At about $240 for both sides, it is nothing like your usual "bearing" work. So...it's been put off for about 2 wks. But I am not thrilled.
 












Advance Auto has the hub/bearing assembly for $189 per. They are easy to replace, big spindle nut and three bolts is all. I read some where on this forum that you can (should) clamp off the break lines, at the rubber section just upstream of the caliper so you don't bleed out the ABS which requires special tools to repair. By the way, the extended warrenty covered (except for the $100 deductable) the hub/bearing assembly as a drivetrain item. That saved a lotta bucks. The dealer wanted something like $350 a side for the parts. Post your progress. Good luck.
 






auto zone has timken ones(the best bearings you can buy) for 165 i got one last nite
 






Back
Top