How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

[jluv]

Good write-up, although there is no need to remove the four screws on the floor inside the center console compartment or "bucket". Those just hold that bucket into the console. With the other screws removed, it's very simple just to pull the entire console and duct that runs under it. I've had mine out easily a dozen times.

 

[03snkvert]

Just thought I would add to this a little!

I just did this last weekend on My 02 and followed another write up that was just about the same. All the info posted in this thread is exact, Minus removing the bucket in the Console!

However, I did not cut my dash and I was still able to replace the actuator. Then only thing I did was use a magnetic pick up tool (like a pen style) to put the top screw into the hole.

I ordered mine From Tousley Ford in MN, they are a Vendor on a Mustang website I am on, but this is a public site. Paid $42.06 + $7 shipping ($50 total)
Just figured I could help someone save a few bucks:

http://www.tousleyford.com/index.cfm?action=parts&subaction=partsform&franchiseID=2360

Search Part # 1L2Z-19E616-CA

 

[btjohnson911]

Actuator broken ??

Hi guys. Have a '02 XLT. When I got it with 69k miles I noticed there was a cllicking sound from what sounded like the fan at the lower settings. it went away on high. Recently, the air duct system stuck on defrost and won't move now. So here's what it's doing:

Fan works on all speeds but there is a clicking sound that increases with the speed of the fan, imperceptible on high.

Temp control works and I get both warm and cool air. I can hear air redirected when I rotate from cool to warm setting.

Vent control: Only air from the defroster blows out, but the system will turn off and it will activate the A/C on that setting. It just won't redirect the air flow from the defroster.

So...any ideas? It doesn't sound identical to the actuator complaints in that i do get warm air.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[jrraven]

I also found it at parts.com totaled around $55.

Just thought I would add to this a little!

I just did this last weekend on My 02 and followed another write up that was just about the same. All the info posted in this thread is exact, Minus removing the bucket in the Console!

However, I did not cut my dash and I was still able to replace the actuator. Then only thing I did was use a magnetic pick up tool (like a pen style) to put the top screw into the hole.

I ordered mine From Tousley Ford in MN, they are a Vendor on a Mustang website I am on, but this is a public site. Paid $42.06 + $7 shipping ($50 total)
Just figured I could help someone save a few bucks:

http://www.tousleyford.com/index.cfm?action=parts&subaction=partsform&franchiseID=2360

Search Part # 1L2Z-19E616-CA

 

[nluv43v3r]

Thank you

Thank you so much. Having these pictures and step by step instructions helped so much. The one good thing is that I didn't have to cut my dash. I guess it helps to have small fingers I saved over $700.00 because of your post. I have found a new profession charging people $600.00 to put in a $74.00 piece. No not really that is just purely a rip-off. All together it took about 2 and a half hours. Thank you again!

 

[deraldsmith]

Excellent Post. Helped me out a lot and just in time for the winter. One thing i did differently was to drill a 1/2 in hole where the top right screw is and I only needed to cut out about 1 in of material from the front edge of the the dash at the bottom.

Thank you very much for the photos and taking the time to help us out.

God Bless

 

[BigRondo]

Good write-up, although there is no need to remove the four screws on the floor inside the center console compartment or "bucket". Those just hold that bucket into the console. With the other screws removed, it's very simple just to pull the entire console and duct that runs under it. I've had mine out easily a dozen times.

jluv, I used this post as a guide: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...&postcount=133. Even with this excellent post by ColdnFrosty, I was “flying blind”. Removing the bottom screws on the bucket seemed to make sense as I thought the 2 screws on the side of the bucket held it in the console. Thanks for clarifying this. I will amend the write up.

Just thought I would add to this a little!

I just did this last weekend on My 02 and followed another write up that was just about the same. All the info posted in this thread is exact, Minus removing the bucket in the Console!

However, I did not cut my dash and I was still able to replace the actuator. Then only thing I did was use a magnetic pick up tool (like a pen style) to put the top screw into the hole.

I ordered mine From Tousley Ford in MN, they are a Vendor on a Mustang website I am on, but this is a public site. Paid $42.06 + $7 shipping ($50 total)
Just figured I could help someone save a few bucks:

http://www.tousleyford.com/index.cfm?action=parts&subaction=partsform&franchiseID=2360

Search Part # 1L2Z-19E616-CA

03snkvert, I did not remove the bucket, just the screws on the bottom. Write-up will be amended. Cutting the dash was necessary for me to replace the actuator. Some may be able to replace the actuator without cutting the dash. Tousley is also a vendor on our forum. Check them out here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264850

Thank you so much. Having these pictures and step by step instructions helped so much. The one good thing is that I didn't have to cut my dash. I guess it helps to have small fingers I saved over $700.00 because of your post. I have found a new profession charging people $600.00 to put in a $74.00 piece. No not really that is just purely a rip-off. All together it took about 2 and a half hours. Thank you again!

Excellent Post. Helped me out a lot and just in time for the winter. One thing i did differently was to drill a 1/2 in hole where the top right screw is and I only needed to cut out about 1 in of material from the front edge of the the dash at the bottom.

Thank you very much for the photos and taking the time to help us out.

God Bless

nluv43v3r & deraldsmith, cutting the dash is an option to make replacing the actuator. I needed to cut the dash. If it can be replaced without cutting the dash then that is a good thing.

 

[BigRondo]

Thanks everyone for your kind words and comments. :biggthump This write up is only a guide. If you find an easier way to do this then by all means go right ahead. That's what this forum is all about: sharing ideas and methods for keeping our vehicles operating. As a result of the great ideas and comments, I have amended the write up. Thanks again everybody!

 

[jloot]

Just had to make a post to thank you for this guide...saved me a lot of time and $$$. To anyone thinking about doing this you should definitely go ahead, I have next to 0 mechanical skills and if you ever put anything together out of a box you can do this.

​

 

[BigRondo]

Just had to make a post to thank you for this guide...saved me a lot of time and $$$. To anyone thinking about doing this you should definitely go ahead, I have next to 0 mechanical skills and if you ever put anything together out of a box you can do this.

​

You're welcome. Glad I could help out. :biggthump

 

[D Hook]

I wish there was as detailed a write up as this one for the blend door on my Mark VIII. Whole dash has to come out.

BTW, the pics are fantastic. Great Job!

 

[BigRondo]

Thank you.

 

[my1zamboni]

BigRondo YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!
2 hours start to finish and now I won't be freezing my A$$ off on my ride to work in the morning. And I won't be paying a dealer $1000.
That was 2 hours with my OCD kicking in and having to clean the console and vac the floor while everything was out.
2 side notes I took off the radio trim panel and was able to get at front lower screw from there (with some work) and a dab of silicone held the screws in place so I could get to them with a wrench.
BigRondo thank you again you saved me $900 I didn't have right now. We will have to get together for a beer as you are only about 2 hours from me.
Now I think I need to fix the fan resistor as my fan sucks at lower speeds.

 

[EasyRhino]

That is without a doubt one of the best procedural write-ups I have ever seen on the 'net.

I had to do my rear AC blend door actuator a couple of years ago and it was not that bad (also got the gouge from this site).

So far I have not had to do my front (we don't use the heat here so that might make it last longer, it doesn't get cycled much if at all), but when I do, I'll know where to turn.

So Big R, were you a procedure writer/engineer at any point in your career? I work in nuclear procedures and rarely see more detailed write ups.

Sticky, perhaps?

 

[85COExplorer]

BigRondo,

great description. Fix my actuator this morning. Total cost 73.00 and three hours. I think I could do it in under two now. The failure started with all the classic symptoms described in the thread. Clicking then a loud thunk when switching from cold to heat. Once the thunk occurred I had heat. Eventually the thunk failed to happen, the clicking sound continued, and I no longer had heat. I didn't have to cut my dash to replace the actuator. It certainly would not hurt to a contortionist though. Thanks for the post.

 

[BigRondo]

BigRondo YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!
2 hours start to finish and now I won't be freezing my A$$ off on my ride to work in the morning. And I won't be paying a dealer $1000.
That was 2 hours with my OCD kicking in and having to clean the console and vac the floor while everything was out.
2 side notes I took off the radio trim panel and was able to get at front lower screw from there (with some work) and a dab of silicone held the screws in place so I could get to them with a wrench.
BigRondo thank you again you saved me $900 I didn't have right now. We will have to get together for a beer as you are only about 2 hours from me.
Now I think I need to fix the fan resistor as my fan sucks at lower speeds.

Beer, did someone say beer? Glad you got it fixed. This forum is awesome. I'm just trying to give a little back.

 

[BigRondo]

That is without a doubt one of the best procedural write-ups I have ever seen on the 'net.

I had to do my rear AC blend door actuator a couple of years ago and it was not that bad (also got the gouge from this site).

So far I have not had to do my front (we don't use the heat here so that might make it last longer, it doesn't get cycled much if at all), but when I do, I'll know where to turn.

So Big R, were you a procedure writer/engineer at any point in your career? I work in nuclear procedures and rarely see more detailed write ups.

Sticky, perhaps?

Not a procedural writer. I did spend 13 years in the Marine Corps and taught a butt load of classes. We were required to produce a detailed outline for every class we taught along with training aids, etc. One thing the Marines pounded in to me from day 1 was attention to detail!!!

 

[BigRondo]

BigRondo,

great description. Fix my actuator this morning. Total cost 73.00 and three hours. I think I could do it in under two now. The failure started with all the classic symptoms described in the thread. Clicking then a loud thunk when switching from cold to heat. Once the thunk occurred I had heat. Eventually the thunk failed to happen, the clicking sound continued, and I no longer had heat. I didn't have to cut my dash to replace the actuator. It certainly would not hurt to a contortionist though. Thanks for the post.

Glad you got it fixed!!

 

[EasyRhino]

Not a procedural writer. I did spend 13 years in the Marine Corps and taught a butt load of classes. We were required to produce a detailed outline for every class we taught along with training aids, etc. One thing the Marines pounded in to me from day 1 was attention to detail!!!

Ooh-rah, and thanks for your service

 

[BigRondo]

Ooh-rah, and thanks for your service

You, sir are very welcome. I talked to you before about being stationed at Kaneohe from 85-87 and the awesome beach at Kailua Park. Man, I sure do miss Hawaii. Shaka, Bra!