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Replace torsion bar?

Tasco37

Member
Joined
December 24, 2017
Messages
44
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16
City, State
Missouri
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
This is just one of reasons im changing every control arm.

20181024_103311.jpg


Yes, that is day light you see and no, I'm not 100% sure what what caused it. But that doesn't matter. As I said that is just one of the reasons. The other two reasons are bushings and to change the two piece UCA and make it a one piece.

As for the torsion bar goes, would you replace it after putting in new LCAs? Do you think you run the risk of having the same issue down the road?
 



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Wow.. Now you have me anxious to get home and check mine!.... following
 






When you take it off you can check how it fits in the new control arm. IMHO that torsion bar is not going to twist in that control arm anyway at least not yet. Looks like the control arm rusting and losing some of it's metal, flaking off in where the torsion bar sits. IDK.
I replaced mine about a month ago, my LCA had some bad bushings, my torsion bar was rusted in there real bad and had to cut it to get it out.
 






Linked post below regarding torsion bar hex "indexing" may be of interest. Thanks Don (CDRW621R) Only online info I've seen addressing this issue.
**EMERGENCY** Torsion bar help needed!

Reports of torsion bars not fitting tight in with aftermarket lower control arms such as premium grade Moog and Raybestos LCA's.

Here's two:
 






I'll be changing out my lower control arms also. The bushings are shot and lower ball joint has been replaced on both sides 3 times in 5 years , the last time with Moog problem solver parts and still having issues. This time I decided to get a set of "Detroit Axle - Both (2) Brand New Front Lower Driver & Passenger Side Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly for Torsion Bar Suspension ONLY" From Amazon. I was warned that the torsion bar would be fine to re-use but not to attempt to heat it to get it out of the control arm. Heating would remove the "temper" from the spring steel. Cutting it out is the best way if hitting it with a hammer doesn't break it loose. Although with the sunlight shining through yours I don't think a tight fit will be an issue.

On a side note: Tasco37, what brand did you decide to go with for your replacement lower control arms?
Pete, what brand did you go with ?
 






Linked post below regarding torsion bar hex "indexing" may be of interest. Thanks Don (CDRW621R) Only online info I've seen addressing this issue.
**EMERGENCY** Torsion bar help needed!

Reports of torsion bars not fitting tight in with aftermarket lower control arms such as premium grade Moog and Raybestos LCA's. Here's just one:
Torsion bar twist? How Far? How High?
Thanks, this is good to know info.

On a side note: Tasco37, what brand did you decide to go with for your replacement lower control arms?
Pete, what brand did you go with ?

I went with a motorcraft from rock auto. Fit's fine.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+v6+ohv,1119686,suspension,control+arm,10401

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1328803&cc=1119686&jsn=559
 












On a side note: Tasco37, what brand did you decide to go with for your replacement lower control arms?

I'm leaning towards Mevotech due to price. I tried searching the forums for any information on them but most of it is to broad.

I would like to use Moog but the price is killing me. Basically its twice as much for Moog parts than Mevotech. But Moog has better return policies and customer support.

So I really dont know just yet. Might mix and match.
 












I went with the movoteck I am very happy with them exactly the same as my oem metal thickness nice ball joints and nice bushings too

Nice part

There is nothing wrong with your springs either
One tap with a ball hammer there out

And no that's not rust it's road grime on my truck the fluid film kinda collected dust and stuff

20181024_175302.jpg


20181024_175327.jpg
 






@swshawaii

I thought about Moog's R series but I read some iffy stuff about them. Basically since they are made to cover a wider range of vehicles, a direct fit may not be feasible. The tolerances are to great. Not saying they won't work and with a 3 year warranty, it still may not be a bad choice.

I might check Ebay later tonight. I really dont like going on there.

@donalds

Glad to hear and see pics of Mevotech parts. I notice they don't have the blue boots. Are they the original grade version?
 






Nope came that way
It's funny the upper s didn't either
But they did come with grease fittings
They were like $75 each
 






Besides I don't care what color the boots are lol
 












@donalds

I'm a bit picky when it comes to color. I have the deep Wedgewood paint and I want blue bushings/boots to match. I'm okay with black ones though. But I hate mixing colors. Speaking of; I'm about to paint the Gabriel load shock springs black as they are red.

You said your LCA came with grease fittings. They have to be Mevotechs supreme line. And if that is what you have on your Explorer, I'll pull the trigger and get all Mevotech parts.
 






Update these control arms upper and lower are still mint
I went with the movoteck I am very happy with them exactly the same as my oem metal thickness nice ball joints and nice bushings too

Nice part

There is nothing wrong with your springs either
One tap with a ball hammer there out

And no that's not rust it's road grime on my truck the fluid film kinda collected dust and stuff

View attachment 163783

View attachment 163784
 






Surprised, didn't know I had torsion bars on my 98 Explorer, I was into big block Mopars for many years and they all had
em! Never any problem. Well, have to go in for maintenance on a U-joint and will have them look at the torsion bars.
 






Surprised, didn't know I had torsion bars on my 98 Explorer, I was into big block Mopars for many years and they all had
em! Never any problem. Well, have to go in for maintenance on a U-joint and will have them look at the torsion bars.
Unfortunately, they do.
 






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