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Replacing Cam Timing Chain Tensioner on 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by 3xowner, September 12, 2016.

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  1. 3xowner

    3xowner Member

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    I am in doing my thermostat housing and figured its a good time to replace the timing chain spring tensioner on the left bank front since I have access to it.

    My question here now is that the is a pinhole in the tensioner and a 1/4" hole in the thread area for it in the head.
    I do take it that these both need to line up when installed as to deliver oil (and pressure) into the tensioner, right?

    Will they match up no matter what based on the threadings or should i go lengths to make sure they line up by marking each to see they do?

    I see in similar posts here that the torque should be 28 ft / lbs, correct?

    thanks in advanced.
     
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  3. LoquetusofBorg

    LoquetusofBorg "Resistance is Futile" Elite Explorer

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  4. LoquetusofBorg

    LoquetusofBorg "Resistance is Futile" Elite Explorer

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  5. koda2000

    koda2000 Explorer Addict

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    I don't think the oil holes need to line up. I've never heard of this, nor do I know how you'e manage to make sure they did. I've replaced my front tensioer and installed the oil restrictor tube (waste of time/$). I removed the old tnsioner and screwed in the new one. I don't recall the torque spec, though it seems like it was more that 28 FP, but I could be wrong. Be sure that the metal gasket ring seats correctly on the tensioner or you;ll have one hell of an oil leak. Put some grease on the gasket to make sure it stays in place.
     
  6. 3xowner

    3xowner Member

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    I have 147k on it. It has always been highly maintained.

    With the head having a 1/4 inch hole in its threading and the tensioner having a 1/16 inch hole and works via oil pressure, they should be required to match up. I am asking for the best method to guarantee a high quality install.

    If fearing damage based on a previous job, where do you believe the failure point or cause was?
     
  7. LoquetusofBorg

    LoquetusofBorg "Resistance is Futile" Elite Explorer

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    I don't know if you are talking to me or koda2000. I will chime in about where the failure on mine was. The new tensioners were to much for the timing guide's and forced them both, (front and rear), to break. You only have 147k and it might work for you. The oilier holes don't have to line up. The holes in the tensioner are for oil to get in and not out to keep the tensioners springs lubed. That is my understanding of them. If I am wrong, I will soon be corrected. Good luck on what ever you decide. Please keep us posted.
    Robert
     
  8. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  9. 3xowner

    3xowner Member

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    Ok, thanks...
    I will probably install tomorrow
     
  10. Tech By Trade

    Tech By Trade Well-Known Member

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    Also, the gasket Koda is talking about is a small metal ring. The new ones may come with them, or not. If the old ones are original they will not have the Gasket. I would also double check your torque spec. Seems a bit low.
     
  11. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  12. 3xowner

    3xowner Member

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    Thanks for sharing the specs link.

    Well i am using a Pittsburgh 1/2 Torque wrench with about a 12" extension... i marked the areas of the tensioner shaft for its pinhole and head area for the oil channel. when I installed with a new gasket today, when the areas lined up, i never got he torque to click even at 28 lbs setting. i figure it was enough force and while I put things back together I will see how much clearance I have if applying more toque later. I will say that when I took off the original one, that I was able to do so with a craftsman 1 1/16 " 12 point wrench. So i think I am getting it back to where it was for the original torque. I just wonder how accurate my torque wrench is performing.

    I had not soaked the tensioner or primed it, think I should pull it again and do it? new gasket too?

    in my searches, I see that there was a TSB for this in that they updated things so that there was a few inch tube that appears to be inserted into the head. I read that it is to slow down the draining of oil from the tensioner back into the head. So if that is the case, I really have to believe that the two holes are designed to match up.

    Is that check valve, or oil restricter, truly necessary? I really was never having the death chain rattles that I see on youtube.
     
  13. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    The "pencil" that is installed in the oil gallery is actually a volume reducer and not a restrictor. It allows oil pressure to build sooner after engine start which displaces the piston in the tensioner and eliminates slack in the chain. Many members have damaged the gallery plug trying to remove it when not using an impact drive. I installed the entire 00M12 kit and replaced the rear cassette assembly and still had a little start up timing chain rattle. So I installed a pre-oiler (Accusump). I doubt it is necessary for you to install the volume reducer.
     
  14. 3xowner

    3xowner Member

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    I got this one installed... No oil leaking...
    I had installed it prior to reading about soaking it in oil as a way to prime it.
    When I started it up, I did get chain rattle for about 1-2 seconds only.
    I did a motorcraft synthetic blend oil change too, with filter about 7/8 filled with installing.

    Afterwards, I changed out the right rear cam chain tensioner too. Same thing on the start up afterwards of having rattle for 1-2 seconds. The rear one I marked prior to removal and see the original tensioner 's oil pinhole was positioned around 12 O'clock whereas the engine blocks oil hole was around 4-5 o'clock. When I inserted and cracked down the new one, they lined up.

    I still don't think that I am getting a good enough angle on these to truly set the torque or verify it. But both original broke free easily.
     

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