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Replacing Lower Balljoints, how to

Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by King$nake, June 25, 2011.

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    1. King$nake

      King$nake Active Member

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      Hello,

      I have some direct replacement Moog Lower Balljoints for my 98 Explorer 2WD. Every shop I have talked to has quoted me ~$300 just to have them installed.

      Is this something I can do in my garage with basic hand tools? Or is it something I really need to have somebody else do? We are pretty mechanically inclined, we know enough atleast to install the spindles, shocks, shackles, cooling system, etc (not that it means much, just sayin)

      Thanks in advance,
      J
       
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    3. storlied

      storlied Well-Known Member

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      Search Ball Joint how to.. there is a guide... all you gotta do is press them out and press the new ones in after removing/installing the snap rings.... just look at em and you'll figure it out.. and then laugh at the shop quote.

      Oh and btw, go buy a pickle fork... the balljoints are gonna be a pain in the ass to remove from the knuckle... but that's Always gonna happen. That to me is the hardest and most frustrating part.. but just have some fun beating the poo out of it. Haha.
       
    4. King$nake

      King$nake Active Member

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      Ok thats good news, I am going to look into it.

      BTW - why does everyone say the A-arms have to be removed to replace the balljoints? Makes no sense.

      Maybe I will plan on doing the balljoints in my garage on monday, hopefully I can do both sides in less than an hour or two
       
    5. storlied

      storlied Well-Known Member

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      Ford manuals n such say that the balljoints aren't removable and as such.. the whole unit needs to be replaced as a whole. Which is BS, because I've done the job 2 times now? I'm sure repeated jobs will sooner or later stretch the hole but you just need to keep up on the condition of your parts.. that's all.
       
    6. crazymind

      crazymind Active Member

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      When I replaced mine I used a hammer and Jack ,the Jack to support the control arm when I beat the ball joint out. Than I used a socket to slip over the ball joint and hit the control arm till the bitten lip was againts the control arm.its been a few miles and haven't had any problems with my control arm. Hope it help o yeah wd40 is your friend in all this.
       
    7. shooterdude199

      shooterdude199 Active Member

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      i burned my old ones out with an oxyacetylene torch and froze the new ones then dropped 'em into place lol
       
    8. gavin

      gavin Elite Explorer

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      I would be careful with this method. It's very easy to make the hole oblong when just beating it with a hammer. I know. I had to use some JB Weld to limp along long enough I could replace the arm :)

      not sure how "safe" it is to get the CA to extreme heat. It could weaken the arm, or make it more brittle.
      The freezing new balljoints is definitely a great "trick"
       
    9. King$nake

      King$nake Active Member

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      Hey guys, just did the passenger side balljoint, wasn't too difficult, just need the right tools. Will do driver side in the morning.

      Quick question, I stripped the upper arm/spindle bolt and replace it with something of a similar size. It fit fine and I got it all together, but I am wondering now if I should use a specific material of bolt for the spindle/upper arm bolt? Or will just anything in there work?

      Thanks
      Joe
       
    10. gavin

      gavin Elite Explorer

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      I would say that as long as it was at least a grade 5 bolt, it should be fine. That bolt really doesn't do all that much.
       
    11. shooterdude199

      shooterdude199 Active Member

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      yeah honestly get a press. much easier much faster. safety first.
       

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