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Replacing U-Joints

mf94_4x4

Active Member
Joined
December 1, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Massachussetts
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Mountaineer
Hi all,

I need to replace all my U-Joints for my 4 wheel drive from the drive shaft and at both the front wheels, they were grinding, and now are frozen, probably from lack of use and age (from the factory on a 94). Anyway, does anyone have any tips for doing the job, or any recommended replacement u-joints that will last and be strong, i will be needing to use my 4wheel alot this winter to get to work no matter what (working at a Ski area). Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks.
 



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If you have ABS seek advice on removing the ABS sensor protectors (you need a 12-pt socket from the back).

Also expect to have a hard time removing the spindles (they'll be rusted to the knuckles). Soak them with rust penetrant well in advance and use a chisel around them to pop them off.

While you are in there, you might want to do your ball joints since a lot of the labor overlaps. (Unless they are pretty much new.)
 






Thanks for the tips, my ball joints are still good, the pervious owner had them replaced once before and there are no signs of them beeing worn or loose.

Ill be sure to soak everything down with some penetrating oil well in advance, im sure it hasnt been apart in a long time.
 






I used Spicers. The big thing is to be careful not to drop any of the pins under the caps, and to be careful not to splinter the yoke when beating the things out.
 






I have found an old socket or two really helps. Get one bigger than the cap and one nearly the size of the cap, put the one that is larger under the yoke and the smaller one on the cap. Then you can beat the joint apart with a hammer. If your caps are rusted in, you may damage the smaller socket, depending on the quality of it.
 






I think i may try pressing them out with a vise and sockets, or see if i can get my hands on a U-Joint tool like the one Harbor Freight carries, its like a big C clamp with an open end to press the caps out.
 












Well i just started the other day, all 3 U-Joints on the front shaft were getting worn and i replaced them using a U-Joint C-clamp press my freind had then got the shaft back in (that was a pain), both wheel joints were completely rusted and shot, I got the drivers side apart using a vice, big hammer. and some sockets and replaced it no problem and then put it back together. I went to remove the passenger side shaft, and the slip joint in the shaft is apparently rusted together and wont budge, we tried everything but pulling it with a gear puller and heating it, wouldnt budge, so we soaked it down with Screwloose and let it sit...were going to try heating it slowly on friday to try to get it out, my freind has done it before on F-250's with the similar Dana 44 TTB setup and its worked fine. Is there a lock on the shaft that i am missing here? I dont belive there is?

Anyone have this happen to them? I really dont feel like trying to cut the shaft out somehow or take the diff apart to get the stub shaft out. Does anyone know if I can get the Stub shaft U-Joint apart (closest to the diff) while its on the truck and pull the whole shaft out through the knuckle? If i can get it all out of the truck i could try and press it apart somehow. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated i really dont want to buy a new axle..
 






At the rubber boot on the axle, you have to disconnect the boot from one side of the axle. The axle splits there. It doesn't come out of the Pumpkin
 






Yeah i got that down, the problem was the slip joint under the rubber boot was frozen, but we got it apart with a little heat from a torch and a hammer and a large pry bar. I loaded the rubber boot and splines with some grease so this doesn't happen again. Got it all back together today, no more klunking and grinding.
 






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