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Replacing upper oil pan gasket

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by Richieg, June 15, 2015.

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  1. Richieg

    Richieg New Member

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    I have a few leaks coming from my motor. I used dye to see where they are coming from. I have oil coming from three places. 1) the oil filter adapter plate gasket, 2) the lower oil pan, and 3) the upper (cradle) oil pan gasket.. I would like to know if I need to remove the transmission or motor to remove the upper? and maybe some info on the removal and replacement.... the truck is a 2003 4.0, 2 wheel drive. anything will help.... also I read something about spacers?
     
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  3. Tech By Trade

    Tech By Trade Well-Known Member

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    Lucky you have a 2wd, you don't even have to lift the engine to clear anything. There are 2 torx bolts at the back of the pan that can be reached with an extension. Good luck.
     
  4. XtremeRanger

    XtremeRanger Active Member

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    I just did one in a Mustang, fairly easy. I have an engine cradle support from harbor freight. Lifted the engine up 2-3 inches and the pan slide right out.
     
  5. Richieg

    Richieg New Member

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    Wow really. Mustang is a two piece oil pan? I have never seen that. I did not know the mustang has a upper and lower pan.
     
  6. Tech By Trade

    Tech By Trade Well-Known Member

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    All the POS 4.0l SOHC are a 2 piece oil pan. From rangers, to rovers, to mustangs and exploders.
     
  7. Richieg

    Richieg New Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I read somewhere about spacers? Will I run into alignment issues with the pan?
     
  8. Tech By Trade

    Tech By Trade Well-Known Member

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    Not sure, I think it would be more of an issue with the engine out actually. The pan bolts to the transmission, the spacers are to make sure the transmission is flush. With the engine still in the truck, my guess is you can but the pan up against the transmission and you wont need the spacers. with the engine out you need to make sure the pan is aligned before you can put the engine back in. I would check the ford service manual procedure to be 100% sure.
     
  9. Richieg

    Richieg New Member

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    I fixed it... i sold it.
     
  10. Schaeff58

    Schaeff58 New Member

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    Meaning you took the ladder (upper oil pan) out and replaced it ok?
     
  11. mountaineer2004

    mountaineer2004 Elite Explorer

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    I get oil drips just to the left of the passenger wheel.
    Think oil pan gasket needs replacement but I just park over a piece of plywood in my garage.
    I have a piece of wood in my driveway too, incase I park there.
     
  12. Schaeff58

    Schaeff58 New Member

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    Bummer, doing all the work is a pain to have it leak.... sorry to hear that...
    found this thread may help ya How to: - SOHC V6 Block Cradle removal/installation
    I am in the process of doing this because of parts I found when replacing the lower oil pan, seen in this current thread... it has turned into way more than I wanted to do. NOT my vehicle.
    Found Parts in oil pan...timing chain guide?

    I am at a stand still until I get my parts and can put it all back together. I think I will do the timing chain cover first, then the lower upper pan, called the ladder or girdle I believe. Then proceed with the rest of the replacement of parts.... gotta get this thing out of my garage!

    Good luck with your repair.

    Greg
     
    Last edited: June 14, 2019
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  13. mountaineer2004

    mountaineer2004 Elite Explorer

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    This is another job I should probably do but won't.
    Big job with minimal gain.
    If/when the diff goes bad I'll replace the gasket then.
     
  14. Schaeff58

    Schaeff58 New Member

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    I hear ya, a small leak is not too bad and you seem to have it contained with the material on the floor. It is not really that big a job. Its a lot of small 8mm blots, and then some larger 13 or 15 mm bolts, I forgot which, and the last two #30 torx suck! They are not too tight but they are very hard to get too... used a screwdriver with a #30 torx bit and a pair of pliers to get them out. I cleaned up the pan by soaking it in Simple Green, man I love that stuff.... There does seem to be an issue with the install as mentioned in the thread with the spacers et al.. but I think if you put it back and just hand tighten all the fasteners, then snug up the back two tranny bolts then do the rest of the torque as required.

    If ya do it, good luck!

    Greg

    IMG_6611.jpg

    IMG_6612.jpg
     
  15. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    That thread by Dale of R&Ring the upper oil pan is great. It isn't hard to do, there are just a bunch of bolts. Putting it back on is simply a matter of not tightening any bolts until they are all in. Push the pan back against the transmission(bolts should not be tight at all), and then barely snug the bolts that hold it next to the trans, and snug them all. Use new washers for the two front vertical bolts, those can leak if not replaced.

    The torque specs are needed, that shows them all. The larger bolts are tighter, near 35ftlbs, the much smaller bolts are closer to light valve cover sizes, 10-15lbsft etc.
     
  16. Schaeff58

    Schaeff58 New Member

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    Thanks for that confirmation Don! I was glad to see that my gasket for the upper pan girdle piece has those tow washers! One thing I am confused on is those set screws that are inside the sleeve where the larger bolts go... what do you do with them? I have not touched them, they are the way they were when I took the part down...

    Thanks
     
  17. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    I think the whole point of those set screws are to apply slight pressure to lock the pan to the block. The instructions say to have them outward/loose, until the pan is on, and then screw those slightly against the block etc. I think those are the two I recall. The same for the rear long bolts, to be sure the pan is snugged before tightening those.
     

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