Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Are you going to put some kind of a Stop at the end of the deck? I'm not thinking about something that will actually stop the truck. More like something you will feel if you try to drive over and off the end.

~Mark

Absolutely, with the Atlas in low it's kinda scary getting on top of the flat part with out knowing how close you are to the edge. Just a touch more peddle and over it would go. That's why I stopped as soon as I felt that the tire was on the top. With someone to watch it's not bad, but there was no one when I did the vid. I wish I had of made the flat part a little longer.
And this would even be worse to do on two ramps with one at front and other at rear if there was no one to watch. Even then a stop would be nice. Just need to find some angle for stop, not that it would really stop it in low but at least I'll be able to let off gas.

 

[rookieshooter]

And here you go Maniak. Went back out and realized I would need something higher up then angle. Plus being higher up on the tire means that I should be able to see the back end of the ramp start coming off the ground. A sure sign that I've reached the limit. I purposely allowed for lager diameter tires by moving it slightly foreword more then it needs to be for these 35s. next was to weld it in place.

After making these ramps per FireZappers verbal plans I quickly realized that this is the most beneficial tool I have in checking out the flex that this truck has or not has and not even leaving the comfort of my backyard lol. Not that this is the end all of end alls, but it sure is close. Check out the many pics especially when the rear radius arm is pinned and then unpinned to let this truck flex.
Quickly learned that there is a whole bunch more of the rear rear well has to be cut out and longer travel shocks are a must if I'm to get a total of 40" of working flex. I'm very close to that now even with outboard mounted rear shocks. Not going to change the outboard location, love the way it handles these curvy roads.

Now here it is with the rear wristed radius arm suspension in street mode with the one pull pin still in place.

Notice the front right tire.

I backed down the ramps and pulled the pin and went back to the top of the ramps, remember these are 20" high each. Like I said earlier, it's a cake walk to do one, but two at opposite corners is a different animal. Now check out the same tire. Also notice the lack of air space above the top of the rear tire compared to the pic that still has the pin in place.

All that stuff come with a price...more trimming. In fact I'll need to redo part of the exo. But first I want to see how the upcoming 3 point will do. With the anticipated less rear steer there might not be any or not much trimming.

Now this is the same rear tire which is in the first pic with the pin still in place with both tires on top of the ramps. Less stuff and hardly no rear steer.

Click pic
Here after welding on the stop I can look down and see the rear of the ramp start coming up as I touch the stop. Then just let of gas and tire comes back a little to level ramp out. Now I can do this by myself.
Would help also if I would turn down idle when the Atlas is in low. It wants to lurch forward as soon as I let off brake. One foot on brake and other on gas is a must.

Here is another pic of the rear axle pinned.

And now with pin removed. From street mode to trail with a pull of a pin lol.
Also notice the way the rear body sits more parallel with the ground amd more air space above the rear driver side tire when the pin is removed. In fact the whole body is now more level inabling the front tire to touch the ground.


<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/Flex/?action=view&amp;current=DSC00410.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/Flex/DSC00410.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Actually a little over 20".

Due to the amount of rear steer when the pin is removed the rear tire is not as far on the ramp as the front tire, even though they both started the climb in the same exact relation to the ramp. I'll just have to adjust the ramps next time so the rear wheel starts up the ramp first by a couple of inches. i dont notice this much going up the ramps other then a slight turning of the steering wheel to the left.
Been a good couple of days. I have some good documented benchmarks to go buy now for many more mods to come. Hope you enjoyed the show

 

[kert0307]

Looks good! Your getting a lot more travel out of the front axle than I thought you could for how short your links are. How long are the front links roughly?

 

[rookieshooter]

Looks good! Your getting a lot more travel out of the front axle than I thought you could for how short your links are. How long are the front links roughly?

Thanks Kert. Remember the coilovers are not letting it flex even more. There's substantial more travel once longer travel shocks are installed. And also the rear right tire is stuffed so much it's hitting the wheel well.
What i did was to run the top link about as long as I could without getting the frame mount too low. The top link determined my bottom length. So since I got 18" top link then what I did was to make the bottom link length a minimum of 1.70 times longer. So what i settled with was 32" long which is over 70%.
Can you only imagine with longer travel coilovers and a rear triangulated 4 point... Then climb those ramps.

Working on the aux fan switch and relay mounting position. Going to have the switch mounted in the same aluminum overhead plate that my roof top off road light is mounted. Also the relay will be mounted there in plain sight. The main power that runs the fan is wired straight to battery with fuse. Then to the #30 term. on relay.

Also put some primer and a first coat of black paint on those ramps.

 

[rookieshooter]

Aux fan mod is done. The fan switch is the far right with it's relay right next to it. I have all other switches on also with lights on to remind me that I have my aux lights on ha ha. Those relays are also in plain site along top of roof. Even my electric fuel pump relay is in cab behind seat in full view. In fact one day my engine died and it acted like a fuel problem. All I did was reach behind seat while still sitting and did not feel the relay pull in when key was turned on...problem solved.

Now I'm thinking of just leaving them there permanently.
The short drive to get some Dunkin coffee this morning I just left them on when I went inside. It brought the temp down a few degrees once I started the engine.
Right now it's just Mall Rated fans, but soon to be Trail Rated LOL, that'll be the real test.
Also some fan shrouding is in order for even more cooling. A lot of air going out the sides and top.

 

[Maniak]

If your going to shroud those fans, only shroud straight back and not flare out like the factory shroud that was on the back. You don't want to force all the air that is going to the radiator to go through the fans.

In my experience, pusher fans can help in slow speed stuff, but they actually hurt the cooling performance at higher speeds since the spinning blades actually block air..

btw.. if/when its time to replace those fans. Look into the A/C condenser fan from a Geo prism. I'm using one of them as a trans cooler fan. Mounting was pretty easy and they come with a metal guard/shield on the front.. New (Dorman or TYC from rockauto) is < $50. I paid $15 for mine (both times)...

Oh yea.. most fans are much less efficient when run backwards (I noticed your using a puller, running backwards). Switch to a real pusher fan will give you more performance since the blades will be running in the optimized rotation.

edit: picture of a dorman version from Advanced Auto parts. Its more expensive there and not quite as nice as the factory one.

~Mark

 

[rookieshooter]

Are the Geo fans pusher fans? I agree about blocking air at higher speeds. Now since the wiring is done, switching fans would be very easy.

 

[rookieshooter]

I know about running the fans back wards as far as the air flow goes. The larger fan is just a slanted blade and really don't make much difference, but the smaller fan does have a concave/convex shape which does hurt the airflow when running back wards. Still moves a fair amount of air. But I agree that two designed pusher fans will be better. I'll check out some parts dealers for those fans. I'll at least replace the curved blade fan for now and the other later depending on price.
Really like the metal screen also.

 

[Maniak]

Are the Geo fans pusher fans? I agree about blocking air at higher speeds. Now since the wiring is done, switching fans would be very easy.

Yup.. They are pusher fans. They are actually easier to find on Toyota corollas than the Prisms since the corollas are more common (and pretty much the same vehicle).

I found a shot of it installed on the X. You can see how we mounted it. We are using a threaded Rod and 2 pieces of bent bar stock.

click on the pic to see see the bigger versions.

Transmission-cooler-misc 006 by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark

 

[rookieshooter]

Nice. If I can find only one for now, it will be directly in front of the B&M cooler.

 

[rookieshooter]

Click pic

Thought I'd add this vid of the very first time i went up both ramps. I'm already up a few inches on ramps. I told my daughter what to look for as far as the ramps leaning, rear steer and not guiding me over the edge ha ha. I'm watching her the whole time and hoping she understood me and the spikes thru the ramps hold ha ha.
The ramps are about 45 deg and both axles locked.

 

[rookieshooter]

Umm....idk? I think maybe you should just call them up Monday and ask them what class you would fit under...

I did some corresponding to Carlisle Events about the lack of a definite class that Trail Trucks could enter and the need for informed judges if in fact the class was added. Below is their response.
The last quote is my paid entry into that new class.
Should be a tuff class with all makes and models lumped together. The main thing is not winning but all the info shared from fellow Off-Roaders.
The best thing I came away with at the AFN event was the info I got from others and my new friends that I met. Like those ramps and the geometry of linked suspension I got from guess who?
Plus it's just fun hanging around a bunch of guys that have holes in their shirts from welding and take a perfectly good truck and chop it up. LOL

> Hi, I may attend the Truck Nat. but I do not see a class for Trail trucks like you had at the Ford show. I think this is a crowd favorite and would be cool to see all makes and models represented.
> This leaves me wondering what class to even get into. Trail trucks do not really spend much on paint and chrome but more on suspension for articulation (flexing) and other things like approach angle and departure angle this is why I have spent countless hours in relocating both axles and designing my linked suspension. I think all this work that people with trail trucks do would go unnoticed in any class that we would have to substitute for.
> I took the first place award in trail trucks this year and plan to return next year, but I don't know about attending the truck show which does not have a 4x4 trail class at the largest truck show in the country.
> Seems you could eliminate one of the many lifted classes and let us trail guys have a better shot of winning.
> Thanks Rick
> 1984 Bronco ii Trai Truck
>
> You may contact me at:
>
> Name: Rick

RE: Carlisle Events Web Response: 4x4 Trail Class?‏

Rick, Just following up. We did add a trail class. Our friends from Rausch are going to judge and pick winners. Form will follow function on judging this class of course..... please feel free to register and spread the word. Thanks! Great idea!

I like the idea of Form will follow function in judging.

Code Item Qty Price Grand Total
2011-017 2011 Carlisle Truck Nationals JUDGED COMPETITION
[Truck Nationals Trailer Parking:No Trailer Parking Needed]
[Year:1984]
[Make:Ford]
[Model:Bronco 2]
[Truck Classification:217: SPECIAL INTEREST - TRAIL (EXTREME OFF-ROAD, ALL)] 1 $50.00 $50.00

Subtotal: $50.00
Tax: $0.00

 

[rookieshooter]

Going to order Summit's Hot Rod Satin Black in a few days, so might as well start the sanding process. Not going to take down to bare metal.
Wet sanding the doors and then I'll hit with a coat or two of primer next.

I'll have my son's compressor by tomorrow since mine broke along with an orbital sander.

 

[rookieshooter]

The dent stays.

I like the way all solid color makes the length look shorter.
Hood, doors and fenders are being painted in the garage.

 

[rookieshooter]

Even though my garage door is not working it was just a matter of minutes to get doors, fenders, and hood into garage to paint.
Never did this thought enter my mind when i made those parts quick release.
I need to design a remote so I can drive this thing around in my back yard from my dining room window like one giant remote toy LOL

Could have just sanded the body panels with no primer, but i like the way the primer hides tiny imperfections.

 

[megascape]

I'm new here but your my hero!

 

[janderson4010]

I'm new here but your my hero!

ive never said it out loud except in my garage when im by myself but your my hero too Rick!

 

[rookieshooter]

Made a startling discovery You use less primer once you dice the top I'll order the Black in 3 to 4 days.
And guys, no more talk like that, I'm getting all mushy inside

I'll have a better quality camera once painted, that's unless it turns out like crap and then I'll use the same video camera I'm using now that's set on pictures. Geat videos but lousy pics.

I have always liked blackwalls on black rims coupled with a black truck. NO more color changes.

Did a quick research pertaining to my 103" wheelbase. Of course longer then a stock B2, about an inch or 2 longer then a Ford Explorer 2 door Sport, shorter then a Ranger and much shorter then a 4 door X. A bit of useless info.

 

[rookieshooter]

Nothing like a warm summer shower to do some Wet Sanding.
Now none of this primer is over bare metal but over all the existing paint that as been on this rig. So no moisture is getting to any bare metal. The existing paint was sanded first then the primer over it. The main reason I primered it was to hide all the sanding marks that I had where all those different color body panels were.
Then started the usual med to finer sanding finalizing with 800. Ran out of 800 for the hood so I had some 1200 to do that. Smooth as a newborns bottom.
I've done this exact sanding in the rain before with great results. Just have to time the spraying of the black with the correct humidity level.

About the 2000 Xplorer, installed a new 02 sensor which did not help that much. But the one that really turned the tide was the EGR vacuume sensor. When I Ohm'ed it out there was no resistance (0000) between the two prongs. So replaced that and runs much better. May replace the actual ERG and the tube that comes off the exhaust. Seems the last owner tried to remove it and twisted the tube. But much better is stil not good enough.

 

[rookieshooter]

Hey fellow Trail Rigs, thought I'd put this out there for the upcoming Truck Nationals.
Since I've been trying to get a Trail Class category going at the TN's. They took my idea and ran with it. Here are some quotes from their email.
Hope the 2011 Inaugural new class does well, Now i'm not even worried if I don't get it painted in time... I'm going.

TRAIL CLASS
Not So Pretty but Strong on the Trail?

So you’re not the show and shine type, but have a Truck, Jeep or SUV’s built for the outdoors? Our friends from Rausch Creek are going to help us out this year by sponsoring and judging a trail class?

If your rig is built strictly for the outdoors and off road, the trail class is for you. Judging criteria will be based on function, fit and fabrication to conquer the trail! If this sounds like your off road vehicle, select the trail class as you register your vehicle for the Truck Nationals.

Gotta love the 3F judging format.