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RockRangerII Refresh

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by RockRanger, February 12, 2014.

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    1. 97cherbal

      97cherbal New Member

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      how much are you asking for your mud flap brackets? are you welding them up or sending them as a DIY weld up kit?
       
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    3. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Can do either way. Sending you a PM.
       
    4. 97cherbal

      97cherbal New Member

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      Just finished reading all 17pages, AWESOME FABRICATIONS

      I really think I want both front & back rear leaf spring mounts & your beltech style shackle's as well as the mud flap brackets. All could be DIY as I have a mig welder.
      Questions you might have some insight to as your wife's jeep is leaf spring front & your Ranger is coil springs. My 94 Ranger is currently still 2wd but I have 5.5" suspension lift. I already have a 8.8 4.10 LS rear end in truck, but it will swapped for a disc explorer 8.8 in near future & I have a D30 from my old jeep Comanche and all 4wd drive train to convert. Which do you feel is better for front suspension especially when carrying a load. Like a in bed RV Camper? I have 319,674 miles on my rangers 2.3 4cyl which I may still keep as I have 4wd 5spd for it & front & rear drive lines. I do have a 150,000 mile 4.0 SOHC & A/T from a 2001 2wd explorer that could be used. I also have both a 1350 & 1354 transfer cases. Is one better then the other?

      I also plan to do what ford never did. My 94 ranger is a std cab w/ long bed, however I want the ext cab & retain the long bed. I have a 98 ext cab to be used. I will need to extend frame between cab & front bed mounts approx. 14".

      With your welding & fabrication experience how would you go about extending frame?

      I plan to do a Z style cut to frame. Cut about 12" long which would be a center cut on frame rail then up at front of cut & down at rear of cut, weld in 14" section needed with same pattern of cut to match front & rear section of frame, while the sections are welded together a 3-4ft section of Channel that is clamped & tack welded to bottom of frame to keep properly aligned. Then add a 3/8 plate about 12" long over each spliced joint to the inside of frame rail & have it bolted with 6 bolts on each side of the splice over a 5" section on each side of welded splice. After that weld on a 3ft section of another Ranger frame over the spliced area with it being inside on top of factory frame & outside on bottom of frame. So like two sections of channel facing each other but with top flange inside of the other & bottom flange outside of the other.

      Back to the rear leaf spring hanger set up. Do you all using 63" chevy leaf springs retain both hangers in stock locations? You mentioned possibly making hangers to allow a 2" drop to eliminate any lift blocks. Im thinking with a camper mounted in bed lower center of gravity would be better & I plan to run 315/75/16s which are same as 35x12.50 & Im also guessing that 4.88s would be best gearing whether I have 4cyl or V-6.

      Eventually I will make a 7ft long flat bed that will be a dump style.

      Pm me with cost & options to all hangers & shackles, maybe even center traction bar axle brackets.

      Thanks a lot ,Thomas AKA: ( HAWKSTER ) Truck is Seahawked out & license plate is also personalized for the HAWKS
       
    5. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Lots of questions. I like the coil springs better then leafs up front. I used to have leafs and converted to coil springs. If you do a search for RockRangerII it should come up. This is the rebuild thread.

      As far as cutting the frame to extend I am not sure. I have never done it so I can't give any recomendations.

      For 63 inch Chevy springs the shackle hanger stays in place. The front hanger moves forward the distance of the lower bolt holes of the hanger.

      For the spring hangers and shackle hangers I make them factory height and in 2inch lift when using both. The HD shackles I made require my hangers as the larger bushing won't fit the factory hanger.

      The 1354 is better then the 1350. The 1350 has a slip yoke front shaft and a 4 gear planetary gear. The 1354 has a 6 gear planetary gear. Depending on your front suspension the 1350 might not have enough slip in it.

      Did I miss anything?
       
    6. 97cherbal

      97cherbal New Member

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      so 63" chevy leaf spring with your hangers & shackles will gain how many inches of lift & is that with out any lift blocks?
       
    7. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Sorry I missed this post.

      The two hangers combined give two inches of lift. So if you add the hangers and remove the block you would end up at roughly the same spot. The 63" springs gave me about 3" of lift. So the two hangers, keep the factory block, and 63" chevys would probably end up somewhere around 5-6 inches of lift. You could add a longer shackle and get another inch or so of lift.
       

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