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Rookie Electrition. Couple of Questions

Discussion in 'Performance Lighting' started by Pjibs, July 14, 2011.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Pjibs

    Pjibs Active Member

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    Hey guys!

    Alright to start of I have a 2003 Ford Sport Trac and there are some lighting projects that I want to get a jump on, but am a little confused when it comes to spicing into certain wires and what wires connect to what to get power, etc. So here are my questions, with what I have found on them... any adivce would be greatly appriciated :)


    1) Interior LED light strips made by Pilot. Alright, so I picked up a couple of these strips at my local auto parts store and asked the guy pretty much the same question as I am asking now: how can I hook 4 of these (2 packs of 2) to a switch that I can turn on and off whenever I want too? He sorta pointed me in the right direction saying that I needed a switch first off (check) then I needed wire (check) and then I needed the tools to strip and cinnect the wires/LED to a power source (check). Simple as that right?! I walked out more confused than I walked in... I'm having trouble finding a write up of how to connect the LEDs to a powersource and then to a switch and ground them. Any help?

    2) I got a 49" Tailgate bar from Recon and I know how to ground that and connect everything, but my question with it is that they adapter on my truck to plug the led light bar into is very corroded. Whats the best method for removing corrosion?


    Right now I think that is it. Thanks so much to anyone who can help,
    J.B.
     
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  3. tantrac

    tantrac Member

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    I just did this with my truck. The first thing you want to do is take the radio bezel off to get the 12v socket wires. I just cut the pos and neg wires for the 12v socket and then soddered the constant power wire from the switch to the 12v pos wire. I then took all the neg wires from the strips and switch and soddered them all back into the negative wire for the 12v. For the positive wires running from the strips, I soddered those into the switched power wire on the switch. I'm sorry I don't have any pics, but if you have anymore questions feel free to ask. When I did mine, I just winged it and it turned out real well.
     
  4. tantrac

    tantrac Member

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    For the corrosion, I know they make a spray that can remove corrosion. I'm not sure how well it works, but thats about the only thing I can think of right now.
     
  5. Pjibs

    Pjibs Active Member

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    Alright just so I got this right, (I'm going to connect to the battery via the firewall hole)

    The swtich has 3 prongs so, positive prong goes to positive on LEDs. Negative prong goes to negative on LEDs and also to a ground point. Then 3rd prong takes both a postive and negative wire from battery?

    Yes, no, maybe so?
     
  6. Pjibs

    Pjibs Active Member

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    wait. nvm found where I was going wrong!
     
  7. mcsteven

    mcsteven Member

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    Not sure if your last post was saying nvm to all of this or just the switch. First and foremost, google is your friend.

    1.) LEDs are really low power, so you can probably hook it up to anything. Do yourself a favor. Get a fuse for them. About $2.98 at a Radio Shack or similar store. Next is the decision - do you want these to be available when the car is turned off? Switch on only when the key is on/accessory position? That will determine where you wire it from. You could wire directly from the battery (always on), a circuit from the fuse panel that is only on when the car is on (the one that powers the wipers), or from a wire that goes to the lighter. The order should be similar to this: wire from power source, switch, fuse, then wires to the LEDs. Here is something I found by typing into google "how to install LEDs in your car". http://www.all-neon-car-lights.com/how-to-install-interior-car-lights.html

    Three prongs? Is the switch lighted? If so, it's likely the prongs are power in, power out, and ground (I can't be 100% without seeing the switch, but this would be the most common). If not, you may have a double throw switch (on/on or on/off/on). Check for initials like SPDT or SPST. Here is a SPST non lighted switch. It has two connections.
    [​IMG]

    This 2nd switch is the same, but it is lighted and therefore requires a ground for the light in the switch.
    [​IMG]

    This third one is not lit, but will control two circuits, a 1 on or the other, or 1 on, other on, both off. It's usually wired with power out, power in, power out.
    [​IMG]

    You need one of the first two types of switch but the third will work, just tape over the third connection.

    For the corrosion issue, it depends on what you're trying to remove corrosion from. Try typing in to google "how to remove corrosion from (aluminum or wires or whatever it is you're trying to connect it to). Usually a wire brush, some baking soda and water, or navel jelly work best. Disconnect the item from the power first before cleaning it and let it dry before reconnecting it. If it's a socket type item, you might try a blow dryer to assist the drying process.

    Oh, and you need a camera. :cool: We want to see pics of your finished project!

    Hope this helps a bit.

    MCSteven
     
  8. tantrac

    tantrac Member

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    Sorry if I wasn't very clear. It's kinda hard to explain without actually being able to show what I'm talking about.
     
  9. Pjibs

    Pjibs Active Member

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    Hey!

    Thank you so much for all the help everyone. Check out my other thread of the build! It's paying off. The only thing I am having trouble with is getting through the firewall on my sport trac. I have no idea how too. I have been thnking about just running it along the door panel seam into the engine bay. We will see. Any advice there?

    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322541
    Thanks,
    J.B.
     
  10. mcsteven

    mcsteven Member

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    Don't drill the firewall

    Don't drill the firewall. You could easily hit another wire (like a computer control wire, anything) or something else.

    Look behind the brake master cylinder. There are usually plenty of grommetted openings that already are moving wiring from the engine bay to the passenger compartment. You can also try it from the interior first. Use a wire coat hanger and tape it up, then tape the wire to it. It'll be easier to get thru the firewall and locate it when you look for it on the engine bay side.

    I searched for it here on EF and found this thread. It shows the same general location I mention.
    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295843
     

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