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Rumble from down under!

Discussion in 'New Member Introductions' started by webberz, January 28, 2014.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    City, State:
    Reading, Pa
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2004 Explorer Limited 4.6
    I'm sure there is a previous thread to discuss all of the issues I'm about to displace here. If it was not so darn cold, and I was lucky enough to have a heated garage, I'd just crawl under and poke around. In the meantime, I'll try to get some feedback. First and foremost. I am a noob:) This is my 2nd explorer, and my entire family has them after I bought my 98 explorer. Onto the present day, I have a 2004 limited with the 4.6v8. Lately she has developed some interesting wear and tear sounds.

    A rumble upon deceleration between 45mph-55mph. A much louder rumble at or around 55mph+ Sounds like a drivetrain issue, but I am a visual person. I have replaced the front 2 wheel hubs about 20k or less.

    2 weeks ago I noticed I had no heat. I flopped through the control settings, after turning temp down to 60 and back up to 90 I would get heat. Something inside me suggested I should pop the hood. No radiator fluid in reservoir. Filled reservoir in walmart parking lot, yesterday, no radiator fluid. No apparent leaks. No stains, but again, too dang cold to really look.

    Next on the agenda, yesterday, after driving to work I noticed that if the rpms were around 1200 that there was a hesitation or loss of drive, or buck, interruption, loss of power? Rather alarming to say the least. I drive 19 miles one way twice a day. On the way home, the service engine soon light blinked a few times and then disappeared. I have a obdII tool, but it didn't pick the intermittent code or codes up. It's cold here right now, about 0-14F. I checked the oil to see if there was water in there. No water thank God!!

    I hear a whine sometimes coming from the driver's side of the engine compartment, or at least that's where it seems come from. It usually dissipates before I can pop the hood and listen closely.

    I'm really just concerned about the stutter, hesitation, hiccup, lack of power or whatever one calls it at 1200rpm. Also, I notice that there is a slight miss or not so smooth idle. Something like every 4 to 6 seconds I can feel a slight shake or inconsistency in the idle.

    In advance, I really appreciate the input and responses. At least this will give me a direction as soon as the freezing temps break. I've enjoyed this vehicle very much at 146k I hate to throw it out for something that may be a simple fix. The vibration does not appear to come from the front end, through I am planning on replacing tie rods. I have already done the upper and lower ball joints on both sides. The CV feels fine. No rips in the boots. I did replace a front passenger axle seal. I had a leak there for some odd reason. There also appears to be lube dripping from drive seal of front dif. So that is on my bucket list. Just concerned that the trans might be failing with the hesitation under load at 1200rpm. I don't notice it anywhere else. I'm also concerned about the vibration. I'm a visual at home mechanic with the ability to read. If someone can point me to pictures or videos of possible repairs that would be wonderful!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
     
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  3. FR-425

    FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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    You didn't mention a change of tires for winter driving.

    Did you put different tires on lately?

    Here's why I ask;

    AWD (All Wheel drive) trucks MUST have matching tires front-to-rear, side-to-side.

    If they are mismatched the transfer will bind up and cause this sort of rumble and clucks and just general poor driveability.

    It will also overheat and eventually kill the transfer case.

    If you put snow tires on the rear or replaced only two of the tires get to the tire shop ASAP and get four matching tires. NOTE: different brand tires of the same "labeled" size may not be an actual match.

    Always replace all 4 on your AWD truck. :salute:
     
  4. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    This has 4 wheel auto. It also has 4 wheel high and low, so I'm not 100% certain that it is AWD like the mountaineer. Today the service engine soon light stayed lit, so hopefully when I get home I can pull a code. The tires are cooper all terrain series. 17" if I recall. They might have 40k on them. Tread doesn't look bad. The rumble comes from the rear at or between 40+mph. The lack of power comes at or around 1200rpm, though today it seemed to be closer to 1500rpm. The whine or squeal I hear is around 2krpm, but very intermittent. Typically right after I've started the vehicle and it isn't hot. Though it sounds like it is in the torque converter area, it seems too high and too short to be that. Sounds more like a really bad vacuum leak? As for the rumble, I'll be checking out the ujoint on Friday evening when I finally might get a few hours to poke around. The misfire has gotten worse. I almost instantly had a bad feeling when I pumped wawa gas in last week, like I was going to get crap gas, and now I'm certain Sunoco has cursed my vehicle for not filling up there. While I'm inspecting the ujoint, I plan to change the trans filter, inspect for large metal objects, and give her some new lube. I'm hoping that the bucking or loss of power is a misfire from a bad coil and not an intake gasket or something more labor intensive:)
     
  5. FR-425

    FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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    Ok well that eliminates the tires being the issue.

    Very interested to read your results on the "rumble"

    let us know what you find.

    tire mismatch on any four wheel drive config is bad news but a major NO NO on AWD.

    Automatic 4wd is different in that it only goes into 4wd after rear wheel slip is detected.

    AWD is on all the time.
     
  6. 4pullingGM

    4pullingGM Active Member

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    Stand on it!
    This sounds like a coil going out to me, hopefully you can get a code pulled out of it to see which cylinder it is
     
  7. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    Ok, so yesterday I finally got 2 codes.
    P0316-Misfire first 1000rpm
    P0308-Misfire cyl 8
    I ordered up 6 quarts of amsoil trans lube and an oem filter from ford. I also ordered a tailshaft seal just for shits and giggles. Last time I looked, it didn't look so hot. After lots of research, I'm hopping that it is just the coil pack or something simple. The whine I hear I did catch on video yesterday. Link at bottom of post. I'm slightly concerned that I'll find out it is a manifold gasket. I'm still pretty darn certain the rumble is ujoint. Any thoughts on the coil issue? Any brands one might suggest. Thanks for the input folks. I do appreciate it:)

    The video isn't the best. The sound is hard to catch. You can hear it for about the 1st 10 seconds of the video. The noise did not occur today on the way to work. It comes and goes.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey-Ik0U7fbU&feature=player_embedded
     
  8. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    So I figure out where the antifreeze is going. Cylinder 8. Oil and antifreeze on the boot and plug.
     
  9. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    So, further investigation today revealed a lot! As stated, I have a misfire in cylinder 8. After pulling the COP I noticed rust on the boot. After loosing plug, it gurgled about 5 times. So the rumble underneath is most likely tied to a bad ujoint. I'll take picture if I can resolve antifreeze in cylinder 8. The antifreeze leaking through exhaust has rotted out the stock muffler. Just noticed that today as well. So... anyone have some good suggestions on the antifreeze part? Obviously that's my primary concern. Since pulling the plug, I replaced it, seems to still stutter, but service engine soon light is out. The 1200 rpm stutter is not there. I imagine if I fill resivour though that all those problems will come back. If someone can point me in the right direction for cylinder 8, I'd really appreciate it!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
     
  10. rickybobby

    rickybobby Well-Known Member

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    coolant in the cylinder has to be a leaking lower intake or head/gasket issue. unfortunately the only way to tell the difference is to start tearing it apart and inspect gaskets until you find the leaker
     
  11. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    I think I'm starting with the intake. Read a lot of forums that said Ford had issues with plastic gaskets? Or plastic manifolds. Hopefully what I'm seeing is coolant in the well and not on the plug. Since I put new plug in I'm planning to drive to work and pull plug tonight without adding coolant. Never overheated vehicle.
     
  12. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    Rumble solved

    Well, the u joint in the rear of drive shaft was toast. Lucky it didn't come out. The front one was not so bad. Bought 2 limited lifetime moog joints from advance auto parts online with a 30% of coupon, spent 22 bucks. I did pull the trans pan and replace the filter with oem ford filter, 38 bucks. I pumped 6 quarts of amsoil atf fluid back in at 54 bucks. No big chunks in trans pan, though the magnet did have a lot of sludge on it. I'm not sure what is normal at that mileage. I also pull a 5k lbs boat on the back of it. I ended up buying exhaust system from cat back, that got pricey quick. I'm still trying to find spring loaded flange bolts. Ford wants 25 for two. Seems expensive. The drive is pretty smooth for now. At 147500 I can't complain. I have already replaced 3 hubs in the front. Wish I could get lifetime on those! I'm still searching for an intake manifold for this vehicle. If anyone has a link to something or someone. I haven't ripped into that intake, but since the coolant level is low, and the 8th spark plug well is getting wet, I'm certain it is either the gasket or intake. Plastic intakes suck! Glad my GM eb intake is solid!
     
  13. 1Aauto

    1Aauto EF Vendor

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    Welcome to the site
     
  14. biff9703

    biff9703 Member

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    I've replaced the intake twice on my wife's 96 Mustang GT. Probably same or similar intake. Last time I got one from a mail order auto parts site. Rockauto.com. It has an aluminum crossover for the water passage. Has been fine for about 4 years, Her engine has about 300k on it, the intake is the only hard part I've replaced. Still solid, no leaks. Probably lasted this long because I rarely drive it! Good luck on your other problems. Sounds like you have most of them fixed.
     
  15. webberz

    webberz New Member

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    Intake

    It doesn't seem that anyone is selling the aftermarket dorman intake manifold for the 04 4.6 engine. Slightly disappointed. I already have the updated manifold, just worried about what crap will be rotted when attempting to replace the gaskets. If anyone has a part number for a dorman that will fit an 04 4.6 with W vin, I'd appreciate it. Basically it will cost me 50 bucks or so for a gasket kit. What else should I get while I'm at it?
     
  16. biff9703

    biff9703 Member

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    Jegs has the Dorman intake for your truck with the aluminum crossover. It doesn't specify a W vin, but has the listing for 04 4.6 engine. Just under $200.00. Check it out.
     

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