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Save money on oil?

Mobil 1 5w20 high mileage syn or Castrol 5w20 high mileage blnd (save $10)

  • Mobil 1 high mileage syn 5w20

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • Castrol high mileage blnd 5w20

    Votes: 5 83.3%
  • Same brands above but different weight

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    6
Scotty on YouTube recommends ATP-205. $10 for a bottle and it is supposed to return gaskets and o rings back to like new flexiblility without ruining them and making them mushy. My buddy put it in his 05 5.4 expedition (~190k miles) that leaked all the time from the rear main seal (maybe 1 quart every 5k) and 100% fixed it in 1 day. However My wife’s 03 V6 mustang (140k miles) has either a rear main seal or rear oil pan gasket leak (half quart every 5k). It only slowed it down but didn’t 100% fix it.

Might give it a try. Just make sure to run the engine a bit after pouring down the bottle in.
Worth a shot. Don’t see pulling a 225k mile engine to put a new rear main on. Assuming that’s what it is. Scotty said he’s been using this stuff for over a decade.
 






I'd go with the Castrol from those two choices.

My 98 302 eats about that much, with very little leaking from the oil pan gasket. I always use synthetic and prefer three choices at Walmart, Valvoline/Castrol/Pennzoil.

FWIW; I changed to Mobil 1 synthetic one time right before an 1100 mile trip, in about 2003, in my 302 Lincoln Mark VII. The car had never used much oil, maybe 1/2 quart after an oil interval of 4000 miles or so. My trip was with my mother and we split the driving, typical 10mph over the speed limit, 98% interstate, TN to SD. When we got there I stopped to wash the car in a stall place, and checked the oil and all fluids. The oil was about 80% of a quart low, in 1120 miles. I put that on the Mobil 1, and haven't used it since then.

Changing oil should not cause any change due to the brand, I don't buy that. I use synthetic virtually always(I have a 95 CV that has a rocker rattle, and I've played with different viscosities and cheaper oils(no real change)).

Try one or more oil stop leak products, some people have had good results from them. I've tried many with my 98 302, but so far the biggest help was fixing the original leaks of the oil filter adapter o-rings, pressure sensor, and balancer. Try Amazon for additives, they often have cheap prices for Add-On products(the prices change often, so put several in your saved for later list, and they will update you on changes). Regards,
 






So I’ve tried the AT-205 twice now, no gain. Just did an oil change and now 1,100 miles later it’s down a quart. Still no leaks on the driveway. But you can see clingers on the back of the pan. They just aren’t falling off.

I’m now at 235k. Original engine, only repair was timing at 150k. Original transmission. As far as I know, it’s never been serviced.

This thing runs like a beast. Maybe this summer I bite the bullet and pull the engine. I can do the rear main and the oil pan then. Would really only cost me my time.
 






M1 oil with a motorcraft filter
 






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