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Slightly Modified-1991 Explorer 4 dr 4x4 Build

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by allmyEXes, September 11, 2018.

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    1. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      '97 Merc "MO" the 5.0
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      KAGG 3611
      Slightly Modified-This thread will be for the 1991 4 door 4x4 that I purchased about a year ago. Not only will I be repairing it, I am going to perform some mild modifications. I had seen it sitting out near the field on one of my neighbors property and ask him if he would sell it. He asked what I would give for it and knowing that he was in a scrapping mood I told him that I would give him $10- per 100 pounds. $400- The wheels I purchased about two weeks later.
      Here are a few pictures:
      91ex1.JPG
      it's been bumped in the front and a fender has been replaced. The left rear side glass had been busted out and I found one at a junk yard for $15-
      91ex3.JPG
      The receiver hitch was on it when I got it which I was glad to see because I always need a good hitch. Yes that is a Farmall M behind it, a 1947 I think.
      91ex4.JPG
      It came equipped with the bench seat. All of the seats and carpet are in good condition. Door panels too but I need a gray drivers side front door panel.
      91ex2.JPG
      It is complete under the hood. When I purchased it, someone had already started removing the A4LD The crossmember was missing however both of the driveshafts were with it and the transfer case was hanging by 3 bolts.
      Phase 1 will included whatever the V-6 4.0 OHV engine needs, It is suppose to run and was recently swapped out. Rebuild the A4LD for now and I may go ahead and go through the BW T-1354e transfer case while it is out of the vehicle. I want to perform a 2" body lift and am keeping the lift short enough that the steering linkage wont require much modification and also 1.5" front coil spring spacers which will pretty much just level the truck out. The mild lift should make enough room for 31.1" tires. Here is a picture of my "stand in" 31x10.5x15 for sizing things up as I go.
      91ex5.JPG
      The last parts of Phase 1 will be the addition of rear disc brakes off of an 8.8 out of a 1998 5.0 Explorer. Also new 31.1 (actual) 32x11.5x15s will be installed on the stock aluminum quarter hole wheels with rivets, that need totally refurbished. 91ex6.JPG
      Phase 2 it will be a bit more mildly modified. In the picture above, You may notice the double hump 302/5.0 oil pan. Plans include installing a very mild 302, with a small carburetor with Duraspark electronic ignition. Also a built C-5 with an Advanced adapter kit to hook up to the BW T-1354e transfer case. Very basic. I have searched and studied online and got it down to the basics. Double hump pan, '88 Mustang convertible motor mounts reversed. '97 5.0 Ex/Mountaineer headers to clear the steering and box. Remote oil filter relocation hardware to clear the steering box. Also some radiator support modifications to house a bigger, better radiator. And a few other things for sure. 91ex7.JPG
      Headers and oil filter adapter that I recently picked up at the junk yard. I know that I need the 90 degree type.

      Stay tuned and in a few weeks the first thing that I am going to do is rebuild the A4LD which I will be documenting if anyone is interested.
      Added: I meant to mention at the beginning of this thread what I will be using this 4x4 for. We occasionally canoe, camp or take the flat bottom boat out to fish a little. Most of the time the .access to the canoe boat launch spots are in good shape however sometimes the paths are a little wet or muddy. The mods should be enough that we can get in and out. I already know that our 2WD Explorers with P23575R15 Wranglers get stuck real easy. Once the treads get full of gooey mud, that is it. This should be some better between the 4WD and a little more aggressive tire/tread.
       
      Last edited: September 14, 2018
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    3. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      KAGG 3611
      Future parts list:
      Transmission crossmember
      WHITE 91-94 Ranger/Explorer w/RPM BLUE FACE REVERSE INDIGLO GLOW GAUGE KIT | eBay
      1992 F150 2wd front coil spacers-RETRIEVED !
      Zone Offroad 3296 - Body Lift Kit Blocks 2" Tall x 3" Wide Ships For FREE | eBay
      Misc nuts, bolts and washers. Tractor Supply "by the pound"
      2 New 32X11.50-15 Nankang Mudstar Radial MT MUD 11.5R R15 Tires 758823121678 | eBay-Suitable for my application-
      2 New 32X11.50-15 Nankang Mudstar Radial MT MUD 11.5R R15 Tires 758823121678 | eBay (Tell Santa)
      1985-1994 Ford Ranger Aluminum Radiator, 3 Row Champion, 2.8L/2.9L/3.0L/4.0L | eBay-thanks 410fortune for the rad info & spacer info
      HF Badlands winch and 2 Snatch blocks
      5000 lbs. ATV/Utility Electric Winch with Automatic Load-Holding Brake (any input?)
      1/4" to 3/8" steel plate for 2" bumper lifts
      Other parts on hand
      Aerostar receiver hitch to convert to front hitch with tow bar tabs and removable draw bar (Y shaped)
      1997 Explorer Master Cylinder for 4 W Discs, no CC
       
      Last edited: October 9, 2018
    4. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      Wicked cool build here!

      I LOVE a GEN I Explorer! They are TANKS!!!

      FYI a C4 auto that is 4x4 is called a C5

      Maybe skip the 1.5" spacer lift for the 2wd and get some F-150 spring seats right from Ford?
      Or a Skyjacker 1.5" TTB lift coil and shock, these work really really well and cheap enough
       
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    5. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Jamie, You are correct ! The C-5 started in 1982 and the part number on the case starts with E2... we use to refer to them as E2s to avoid any confusion with the old C-4s.
      I have looked at a picture of the F150 spring sets. Is that the F2 part number that fits the '92-'96 models ? 2WD or 4WD or does it matter ? or the same ? I'm learning these add-ons as I go...Greg
       
      Last edited: September 15, 2018
    6. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      Greg The F150 spring seats were for beamed F150 Rwd/2wd trucks, its factory spacer that goes under the coil, It fits your TTB and coil perfectly
      I have the part number around here somewhere

      I have also used the Skyjacker 1.5" coil and shock available on Ebay, they give you EXACTLY 1.5" of lift and the skyjacker coils always ride so nicely.
      You will need camber correction shims to run any sort of spacer, I Like the adjustable style that allow camber correction from 0 degrees to 2 degrees adjustment
      They claim to be able to adjust 4 degrees that is not true when installed on a 4x4
      https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80109-...0&keywords=1993+ford+ranger+camber+correction
       
    7. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      There is a 1990's F-150 in my local junkyard on its side. I will check the date on it. It has a 5.0 in it, so I think it is early '90s.
       
    8. roscoe 0202

      roscoe 0202 Elite Explorer

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      the c5 was actually used in 83-84 ranger and 84 explorers it fits the cologne v6 housing pattern but the front housing from a c4 can be bolted on to fit a v8
      roscoe
       
    9. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      I have an odd pattern, looks like a small block bellhousing, that I never did identify. That's probably it. Or are you referring to the 2.8 or 2.9 V-6?
      Have I heard someone mention the F150 springs too? I could see needing a little stronger spring when I upgrade to the smallblock.
       
    10. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      the smallblock weight difference is not much you do not need stiffer springs maybe just some leveling
      I have used the 1.5" skyjacker coils in V8 rangers and they still give 1.5" of lift when new and after two weeks of driving.
      When I went from 4.0 to 5.0 my truck lost about 1/2" of height, so I added the F150 seats and now shes back up to 5" of lift over stock (6" SJ coils worn out with the F150 spring seats)

      Forget F150 coils, that truck is too heavy those coils would be way stiff in a Ranger. There are several aftermarket coils you can choose from, Superlift coils are usually rather stiff (like 750 psi) Skyjacker are more like 650 psi nice and soft

      There was no Explorer in 1984 LOL
      All Gen I explorer used the A4LD no more C4/C5
      the A4LD is a C4 with an aluminum overdrive drum added, then it became the 4r55e and finally 5r55e........yuck! LOL
      All based on the original C3 auto from the 4 banger....yikes!!
       
    11. roscoe 0202

      roscoe 0202 Elite Explorer

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      sorry I meant bronco II the housing is the same pattern as 4.0 2.9 2.8 all cologne v6's i'm not sure but it looks like a 2.3 also
      roscoe
       
    12. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      If I recall correctly, it seems like the starter went from drivers side to passenger side at some point..
       
    13. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      Jamie, I borrowed one of your pictures of the F150 2WD spring spacers
      ttbpass.jpg
      Where will the camber correction shims be installed ? In the top and bottom spindle pivot points ?
      Added Mon 5:45 a.m.: If those are really the offset bushings, then I've seen them before. My front alignment guy used some on my '92 2wd when he did an alignment...
      Late Monday I am going to grab a few tools for the Tuesday morning trip to the junk yard to see if the '92 to '96 2wd F150 is still there. They crush very quick at this place. The truck is on its side. I can probably get the forklift guys/parts pullers to torch the springs if they are in the way. I think that I read somewhere that the big nut can be removed with a 1 3/8" or 1 1/8"combo and can I re-use my original bolts that are in my TTBs ?? I am not sure of the correct size and could size off of the Explorer however is the F150 nut the same size ?
       
      Last edited: September 17, 2018
    14. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      I looked up a couple of parts. I'm starting to see all of this now and how it works. That is..After a couple of cups of coffee my 3D/visual spatial functions are waking up. One of these parts goes on the end of the radius arm or
      TTB pivot point? , and the other in the pivot point/s of the spindle...
      MooGK8746.jpg MOogK8972_Top__ra.jpg
       
      Last edited: September 17, 2018
    15. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Staff Member Moderator

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      the two bushings pictured on the left are offset radius arm bushings I have never used those even though I have some downstairs
      the Shim on the right is a camber shim, non adjustable, meaning it gives you X amount of correction.

      The shim I posted is adjustable from 0 degrees to 2,25 degrees positive or negative camber or anywhere in between.

      The camber/caster shim installs over the stud of the upper ball joint, and is held tight in place with the pinch bolt. You rotate the shim the ball joint stud moves in a circle allowing you to adjust camber and a little caster.

      The spring seats on the F150 will be retained by a 1-1/8" nut, you can get it with a large socket and some extensions, you drop extensions down the middle of the coil tower
      A 1-1/8" wrench can get in there also depending on how much room the coil gives you (compressed or not)

      Your 4x4 ttb has enough thread on top of the coil mount stud to fit these "Spacers" yes.
      (2wd trucks the stud is not long enough)

      2.6L, 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 OHV and SOHC all have similar bellhousing patterns and transmissions are interchangeable
      These are all Cologne 60 degree V6 engines (from Merkur/Cossworth fame)

      The 2.3 4 banger Is not a 60 degree v6 and does not have a similar belhousing.
      The C3/C4/C5 transmissions do not have a changeable bellhousing, so it is either a Cologne V6 pattern or it is not, no swapping them around.
      That is why we love the old C5 auto, because it has the 4.0L OHV bellhousing/starter/flywheel pattern and has a 4x4 output that uses a Ranger t case, so you can run a built up C4 automatic in your 4.0L 4x4 Ranger.... reverse manual valve body, built for speed and power, but it will still always only be a 4 speed until you get into the A4LD/4r/5r55e autos to gain the overdrive...
       
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    16. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      I think it was early when you said this...Didn't you mean the C3/A4LD/4R44E ?
       
    17. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      This morning I made the drive over to the scrap yard/junk yard 15 miles from me. I was right, they scrap stuff quick out of there. i met two SEMIs stack as high as you can get loaded with crushed cars and trucks. The F150 on its side was gone. I walked around a little and found a '96 F150 2wd that had the spring spacers that I was wanting. I removed them along with a little help from the guy with the forklift and a O/A torch. I had him cut the springs and gave him a $5- tip. It was already approaching 100 degree heat index so I knew that he would be wanting to buy himself more cold drinks.
      the spring spacers are right at 1.5 inches thick and have a part number prefix of F2TA which means they were first used on 1992 model Ford trucks. Thanks Jamie for the pointer on that. The aluminum spacers would have been $50 and the hole in them was centered. Something tells me that the off center hole in the Ford part is the way to go and I am suppose to swap left and right ? Maybe? Mine almost sags in the front and I am simply trying to level the 1991 4x4. I am not performing any rear suspension lift. Remember that I said that this is a "mild build".
      I will insert a picture here soon of the spacers when I can find the Photographer. He has on a different hat today
      While I was there I was looking for a late '90s Ranger 4x4. I am wanting the spindle assemblies for the better two piston caliper brakes and the thread in pins that retain the calipers. Something tells me that I am going to have to look around this Fall for those. In the meantime to keep cost down I will have the old rotors turned and get some new mid grade pads.

      :burnout:
       
      Last edited: September 18, 2018
    18. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      So Jamie, If I was going to purchase 3 different sizes (range of adjustment) bushings that goes in to the top of the spindle that the upper ball joint stud drops in to, which three would you get, in pairs of course ? here is a rockauto list
      https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...nsion,alignment+caster+/+camber+bushing,13508
      Now some are thinking, Why would you purchase these bushings before you know what size that you need ?
      1) I have been checking rockauto everyday for a week and their supply is going quickly
      2) I have 3 trucks with over 200k that these bushings will fit
      3) After taking the truck so far apart, re-assembleing, adjusting the alignment, drive two weeks and check adjustment and needing a different range of adjustment bushing, it would be nice to already have others on hand or on the shelf
      :burnout:
       
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    19. allmyEXes

      allmyEXes Elite Explorer

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      It has been 2 weeks and a few days since I have been able to do any parts acquisition for the Red 4x4 4dr XLT project. I go back and forth gathering new and used parts. I am wanting to get a little work in on it before it goes into storage before Winter. Winters aren't terribly severe here but they do take there toll on vehicles sitting that don't get started up, heated up and dried out. Water gets into old seam sealer cracks and windshield and other glass sealed edges and makes them worse, so in to dry storage by Thanksgiving weekend, hopefully. We are still in the 90's during the day here and Tropical Depression 14 is spinning near the Gulf of Mexico but Winter is not far off and is on my mind as I try to complete multiple tasks on multiple projects before Winter which has been getting worse in my region as well as our Summers have been too. BUT enough about the weather.
      Recently I purchased a 1998 8.8 rear differential for a spare for my 2 1997s with 3:73s. The MM has 250K on it and the V-6 is not far behind on mileage. I will have spare read disc parts that I can use to upgrade the 3:55 8.8 in this 1991 4x4. I'm sticking with the 3:55s even when I move up to the 31.1" actual mud tires. I will be still be able to use "OD" when I wind it up on the Highway or Interstate. From what I have read somewhere here on the Forum is I will need to change the Master cylinder when I upgrade to disc. So using info from here and parts store DATA I decided to purchase a new Master Cylinder for a 1997 Explorer without Cruise Control. Non cruise MCs only have 2 ports which are the same size fittings as the 1991 MCs. I bought one without the reservoir. It was cheaper and mine looks good on my old one so I was willing to chance it. I have seen several at the JYs that look good with good tanks, but fir $20- new without a reservoir, I'm going with that. here is a file photo of it for now.
      97rdnocruisebmc.jpg
      It has a bore of 1.063 inches and I assume the internal proportioning is different than the front disc, rear drum MC that it will be replacing. The 1991 one has a bore of 1" for the disc/drum version and the CC disengage function is triggered by the brake light switch whereas the '97 (I assume all 2nd gens) trigger switch screws into the 3rd port of the Master Cylinders made for Cruise Control option versions, so that is why I went with the 2 port version.
      I did put my hands on the '91 yesterday for a few minutes. There is no way around it, if you have multiple vehicle projects and parts, that you have to have somewhere to store extra parts. I swapped some stuff back and forth between the '91 Red and the '92 EB. It is the next one to get the TLC. My back is still recovering from the last project, but not much time available to slow and recover. That will have to wait !
      :burnout:
       
    20. jmdirk

      jmdirk Active Member

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      Disc versus drums definitely have a different pressure requirements. Drums also have a residual pressure so they are always dragging just a tiny bit. On most of these, both 1st and 2nd Gen, the bias is done in the ABS module. Some guys have used the drum MC and haven't had any issues. The number that's usually tossed around is that your front does ~70% of the braking anyway.

      You'll get a bit of a pressure drop overall using the 2nd Gen MC due tot he larger bore, but it's not a big deal. Not like going to a F250/350 MC.
       

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