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Sport97's sport

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My name is Vince, I live south of Pittsburgh, Pa. I bought my explorer after i graduated high school(july 08) with 50k for 3500

The Ex:
97 explorer sport, SOHC/auto, leather, moon roof, + mods...


The x: It had 50k miles on it when i got it, and had only minimal rust. Since then the rust has been fixed, and I'm over 100k. Maintenance has been typical with plugs/wires, fuel filter, all 4 ball joints and a thermostat. Running Mobil 1 syn has seemed to quiet the timing chain rattle. Its totally quiet in the summer, and slightly louder in the cold weather.

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CURRENT STATE: 12/2011 @101k

-front skid plate
-removed front valance
-relocated front fog lights
-clear corners
-safari bar/lights (victim of rust and off roading)
-bed liner on a few things
-8" sub w/ amp
-4 pioneer speakers
-air box mod
-new rockers w/o rust:)
-cobra CB w/ 2 3ft wilson whips on the back
-Firestone At's , 265/75/16
-TT
-4 door leaf pack/aal/shackles

Near future:

-f150 tow hooks

Future: 3" body lift, 285/75 M/Ts
 



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I am considering buying a set of clear corners. Only thing i'm worried about is them turning yellow, ive read they tend to fade and turn yellow in about a year or 2.
 



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I am considering buying a set of clear corners. Only thing i'm worried about is them turning yellow, ive read they tend to fade and turn yellow in about a year or 2.

Something like Mequires plastic-x will work wonders on them if they happen to actually fade. But i had mine who were from 410Fortune and i had them for over a year and they were still good, just make sure they get washed every once in a while and wax them afterwards.

Justin
 






OK thanks, I will keep that in mind. I also am thinking about painting my grill black, not the whole piece just the grill slots and the plastic opening
 






I am in a little pickle. Ive been checking out the rust situation on my ex. It isnt good. My inner rockers are totally rusted out, as well as the outers, and the doglegs. It wont pass inspections that way. There is also a lot of rust forming on the structural webbing on the floor boards. I am bouncing around ideas of how to fix this. I have a friend who works at a body shop that i have consulted. He said when the inner rockers, doglegs and such are so rusted its hard to patch as there is no clean metal to build off, and it will most likely rust out again in a year.

With that said I may sell her:(, but only if i could get 3500 or so for it. Besides the rust it is in pretty good shape. Its a loaded 97 with under 85000 miles, i think i could get that in the Pittsburgh market. I would try and find another explorer or mountaineer around a 2000 or 01 with similar miles that is much cleaner that will last me a few more years without massive body work.
 






That sucks to hear man, mine is in the same shape though with the exception that I believe my floor boards are good. I know the shop also told me custom fabbing was needed to do the inners.
 






After much discussion i will be repairing and keeping it. My friends think i should ditch it in favor of a rust free one, but my dad and my bank account say i should fix and drive it.

I am going to order a 5" by 64" piece of steel, possibly galvanized, to rebuild the inner rocker. I am going to also order the rocker panel than will replace the outer rocker. I will fab the dogleg piece out of a piece of thin gauge galvanized and some bondo. I most likely lose that body line in the dogleg but thats not the biggest issue in the world. I plan to bondo the door and feather the line in to match it. It probably wont look great, but it should come out decent. I will then bedliner the whole rocker, dog leg and door below the body line above the door trim. I will paint the other side to match, but i will not be repairing that side at this time, it wont be bad for a year or 2, at which point i will repeat on that side.

The interesting part will be that i will not have access to a welder. I will be riveting and epoxying the whole thing together. Ive seen it done by others, so it should work OK.
 






Good to hear on you keeping your truck, the one other guy that used jbweld and rivets had it looking good afterwords, I've also been thinking of doing the same thing. Good luck Vince, all it takes is some loving time for her to look good again :thumbsup:
 






I started some of my rust removal, aka "operation eradication"
I got the grinder out and ground the rust off the rear bumper and now its coated in bed liner. You can also see my dual CB antennas.
 

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Looks good vince, my 2nd gen bumper was too far gone and went with a 1st gen bumper.
 






Looks good vince, my 2nd gen bumper was too far gone and went with a 1st gen bumper.

This was pretty bad, I figured i would give it a shot, but i foresee the rust returning. I ground a lot of metal off and i still wasn't able to get all the pitting out, mainly down near the bottom edge in the middle. The grinder didn't fit real well in there.
 






Did you try covering the backside too to help prevent rust from developing?
 






Did you try covering the backside too to help prevent rust from developing?

No, the rust spots i ground off were only on the face of the bumper. I didn't even take the bumper off. I just popped the plastic pads off and worked with it in place.
 












I now have all the materials needed to do the rockers and doglegs. Now to find time.

I have been bouncing around the idea of 32x11.50s for my next treads. I really want to do this. I would have a TT and shackles done prior to the tires. I am not sure as to which brand yet. I like my 31" BFGs, they look and ride good but I have popped or blown out 3 tires so far, I am not too satisfied with the quality or wear. The tires would be mounted the Pacer330's I have, which i think might be 15x8s but I'm not sure. I am going to blast them, and paint them black.

Here is a pic i found of section's ex with 32" BFGs, which he said required metal trimming, and he does not have the flares like i do.

Dead Link Removed

After seeing that they may rub a lot I may see if the shop will let me test fit a front tire before i bite the bullet on them. This wont be til spring, as the winter wheels/tires are going on next month.
 






You may want to look into 33x10.5, i believe they will fit with little to no trimming in place of a 32x11.5. those may be a more expensive option, and as for the BFGs, where'd you get them? They shouldn't be having as many problems as you are.

Justin
 






Justin,
I will look into the 33x10.5, but I think I looked before and they were a decent amount more.
Well, you got me on the BFGs, I got them used... I got all 4 with 60-70% tread for 125, couldn't pass that up, and to be honest they really aren't wearing all that bad. I just need to rotate them, the fronts are starting to wear on the insides. My lead foot is wearing my back tires out faster than the fronts:rolleyes:.
Im looking to stay on the cheaper side of the tire prices, but I don't want trash tires, It will require some research.

Edit: Actually the BFGs in the 33x10.50 are about the same price as the 32x11.50s...hmmm you got me thinking. I think they will rub either way. I may just need the BFH:hammer:
 






95-2001 (including 2dr 95 - present)
No lift- 31x10.50x15 on 15x8 rim or stock (15x7) rim
1-2 inch suspension lift - 32x11.50x15 on 15x8 rim/ may require some extensive fender trimming

You may be able to run 33x10.50x15s inplace of 32x11.50x15s

This is where i'm getting my info, i was planning on taking a sawzall to the inner fender if mine didn't fit had my trans not blown from the shady rebuild. I think if you did something like a 1inch body lift you'd clear with no rubbing issues. Just trying to throw ideas out there.

As for The BFG ATs, Something i've noticed from working in a tire shop, BFG tires are very durable, but if they're not taken care of (balance/rotate) they go to **** quick. tho nice score for 125, one new one is more then that.

Justin
 






Thanks Justin,
I had actually looked on the lift/tire size thread, I must have over looked the 33x10.50 part. I could do something like that. I have heard with the 1 inch body lift all you need is the blocks. I think the bolts and brackets can all be reused. But at the same time, if I'm doing a body lift I would kick myself for not going with 2 or 3 inches. Who knows.
 









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Update on the rust repair. Passenger side is almost done. Got all the rust cut out, new metal put in, and a few coats of bondo. I just need to work the last few layers to get it smooth, and then paint it. It looks really good so far.

I would finish it tomorrow but this weekend was a mess. I was working on my GF's car(03 kia sorento) Friday. It had a big leak out of a coolant fitting behind the engine. I had to remove a ton of s**t to get to it. I got it fixed. Then the battery went out and needed replace. We had an extra battery at my house so we threw it in. It needed a little messing with because it has side terminals and her car was set up for top mount. While doing that I noticed a nipple for a coolant hose on the rad was cracked. While removing it it broke off, so now it needs a radiator most likely. She has class tomorrow so she had to take my car to school for the week.

Lesson learned: Buy American:usa:
 






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