Starter removal

[dr fildo]

I'm trying to remove my starter to replace it. '99 5.0. Mountaineer. It is in a very tight spot. Does anyone have any helpful sugggestions on making the removal and replacement procedure a little easier?

 

[bill06447]

There's a couple threads here already. The top bolt can be a bear, others have had luck with a combination of long extensions/wobble sockets. After what seemed like hours futilely attempting, I ended up smashing the ear off the starter with a long chisel and BFH then removing the bolt once the starter was off.

Bill

 

[imp]

There's a couple threads here already. The top bolt can be a bear, others have had luck with a combination of long extensions/wobble sockets. After what seemed like hours futilely attempting, I ended up smashing the ear off the starter with a long chisel and BFH then removing the bolt once the starter was off.

Bill

Can't be too much different than my 90 Mustang and 93 Cobra: slip long extension through above eng mount, as I recall, several were used to get the working end for the ratchet just in front of the mount. I would think mounts in Mountaineer not too different from other 5.0s. imp

 

[koda2000]

yeah, you need about 30-36" worth of extensions and patients. GM's starters are soooo much easier to remove/install.

 

[dr fildo]

Thanks fellas. The bolt is really frozen. I'm slowly rounding the head on the bolt. Then I'm going to be in serious trouble. I'm going to try heating the bolt head. I'm trying to use my impact wrench, but I'm going to have to buy a universal joint because I just can't get a straight shot.

 

[bill06447]

That's what happened to mine-bolt was completely rusted to the bellhousing and began to round out. I started figuring what what my sanity was worth so got ahold of a long cold chisel, went in through the wheel well and broke off the top ear of the starter. No core value but core was only $10 anyways. Once the starter is out it's exponentially simpler to reach the top bolt with penetrating oil, extractor, etc.

Bill

 

[hlg99]

Sounds like I lucked out, Patience, Lots of extensions, Lots and lots of cuss words.

 

[dr fildo]

Well I used several extensions and my impact wench b/c it just wouldn't budge. So I managed to round the head of the bolt. NOW WHAT? How difficult is it to chisel the top ear of the starter off?? $60 core charge too.

 

[bill06447]

Well I used several extensions and my impact wench b/c it just wouldn't budge. So I managed to round the head of the bolt. NOW WHAT? How difficult is it to chisel the top ear of the starter off?? $60 core charge too.

You can see it through the passenger side wheel opening. Jack it from the frame and it's easy to get to. A couple good whacks with a stout chisel from a 3 lb hammer and it cracks right off

Bill

 

[Bobmbx]

Its cast aluminum, so it'll break pretty easy. Just treat it like an old thermostat housing flange. It'll break right off.

 

[dr fildo]

Ok, so I decided to cut the head of the upper bolt off. Got the starter free from the bell housing and the electrical connection was so corroded and frozen that I had to cut the nut off of the solenoid to get it free.

Soooo now I have a corroded, rusty bolt with no head stuck in the bell housing. Any suggestions on how to remove THAT?

This is getting stupid now.

 

[bill06447]

Spray the stud sticking out with Kroil then use a stud extractor or a pair of vise-grips to get it out. Spray both sides. Probably should have left the head on, but hey whats done is done

Bill

 

[dr fildo]

I used a ton of Liquid Wrench and heated the bell housing for 10 mins with a propane torch. Got my lock grips and wiggled back and forth. I had to work it for a while, but eventually it came out. The new starter went in in 10 minutes after that.

Thanks for all the help.