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Solved Still NO brakes!

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
The RABS on my 88 BII would activate and had the truck sideways alot of the time,just on wet roads? Without the RABS I never had an issue. Rabs was easy to byoass and delete as its just the rear brake line
My 96 Explorer the 4WABS would pulse the pedal so hard and on gravel it seemed to increase my stopping distances
My wifes 07 FJ Cruiser the 4WABS seemed to activate late, again seemed to increase stopping distances on gravel. Some research online shows we were not the only ones who noticed this on the Toyotas they had a recall to reprogram the abs software
Lots of gravel on the roads when you live where it snows
I have deleted the ABS system from these vehicles and never had an issue after

I think I dislike ABS brakes on lifted trucks period, call me old school...I learned how to drive in the snow since I was 15 and am an avid off roader, I like to pump my own brakes
Also the 4 wabs pumps can be a pita, if you leave a brake system disconnected or have a large leak and you get air in the abs pump you have to go to a dealer to have it bled? No thanks...I would rather disable it, or delete the pump/system completely.
There is about 20# of ABS pump and the plumbing that goes with it as well as the additional room you get in the engine bay on these gen II explorers.
Its just a pita to delete. You have to source some fittings and double flare some of the factory metal brake lines as well as add a T to the front brake line, but then you can be ABS pump free on your 95-01 RBV
 



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Can you take pictures of each caliper (or at least the front) including bleeder screw? I feel that if you still don't have a pedal you very well could have a miss installed caliper.

I'll do this right after work tomorrow. Not feeling well today. I'm actually hoping I put them on wrong... Would be easy fix :) If they are on backwards, then the parts store I got them from had them in the wrong boxes, or their computer description is wrong. It said drivers side caliper on my receipt had $40 core charge, while the other 3 had $20. So I matched the #'s from the receipt to the ones on the box and put that one on the driver's side. We'll see tomorrow!

Ps there's no way I made a mistake I've never made one in my entire life this would be the first time.... ;)
 






The RABS on my 88 BII would activate and had the truck sideways alot of the time,just on wet roads? Without the RABS I never had an issue. Rabs was easy to byoass and delete as its just the rear brake line
My 96 Explorer the 4WABS would pulse the pedal so hard and on gravel it seemed to increase my stopping distances
My wifes 07 FJ Cruiser the 4WABS seemed to activate late, again seemed to increase stopping distances on gravel. Some research online shows we were not the only ones who noticed this on the Toyotas they had a recall to reprogram the abs software
Lots of gravel on the roads when you live where it snows
I have deleted the ABS system from these vehicles and never had an issue after

I think I dislike ABS brakes on lifted trucks period, call me old school...I learned how to drive in the snow since I was 15 and am an avid off roader, I like to pump my own brakes
Also the 4 wabs pumps can be a pita, if you leave a brake system disconnected or have a large leak and you get air in the abs pump you have to go to a dealer to have it bled? No thanks...I would rather disable it, or delete the pump/system completely.
There is about 20# of ABS pump and the plumbing that goes with it as well as the additional room you get in the engine bay on these gen II explorers.
Its just a pita to delete. You have to source some fittings and double flare some of the factory metal brake lines as well as add a T to the front brake line, but then you can be ABS pump free on your 95-01 RBV

I also have issues stopping on gravel along asphalt roads. It does release the brakes, and the truck keeps rolling. I wish there was an adjustment for that sensitivity, or a different ABS module that worked better.
 






Welp... From what you're saying and by looking at the drivers side caliper..... They're on backwards..?

I'll check the passenger side too but I'm pretty sure it's the same.

This would cause pedal to go to floor with little resistance?

20181206_150125.jpg


20181206_150058.jpg
 






As mentioned earlier, the bleeder HAS to be at the top. You will never get the air out of them at the bottom.

Gotta be tons of air, especially in the upper piston.

Great job to BoominX who called it in post 21.
 






Absolutely.... I'll switch them and report back... Will do it in about an hour or 2.
 






Not as uncommon as one would think. Happens when both calipers are removed at the same time, makes a core deposit unnecessary, or to save a trip for core credit. 99.9% it's the issue. BTDT. :banghead:

Soft/Excessive Travel Brake Pedal - SOLVED
 






Not trying to be a smart butt, or anything mean, but for your own safety, grab a set of jackstands when you can too please. Stock jacks are ok for an emergency tire change (still sketchy), but not for prolonged wrenching, and your head / limbs in the wheel well. Thanks.
 






Yay there will be a happy ending to this thread
 






Oh man! Yes the bleeder valve ALWAYS has to be on the top or you'll never get the air out. It only took 84 posts to figure this one out. Like they say, a picture's worth a thousand words...
 






You might also want to buy new copper sealing washers for the line ends. Swapping the pieces around often doesn't seal those copper and bolt joints fully. It takes a lot of torque to seal new copper washers, as they have to be crushed a bit to form the ring grooves in them. Those copper washers are only a dollar or two at parts stores.

Ditto on the jack stands, buy a cheap pair, likely under $20. I've never had the stock jack out of my Explorers, except one. I had to use my spare one time, on my 99. The stone I got in the tire was large, two plugs wouldn't stop the leak and it was still leaking badly then.
 






:popcorn:
 






Haven't switched the calipers yet, but yes haha I have jackstands... Was just taking tire off to take the picture. I use jackstands and I chock the other tires.

And just for the record... I did 1 caliper at a time, and made sure to do the one that was a $40 core charge...which they said was the drivers side....maybe they were switched in the boxes idk. But I should have known when I was asked if the valves were on top or not once installed... I wasted alot of time and energy trying to bleed the system. Assuming when I switch them it fixes it that is. Just glad Boomin asked for pictures... :)
 






YES!! ALWAYS PICTURES it is almost impossible to internet mechanic without the use of pictures
You are not the first person to DIY and install them this way.....trust me
Now you know, bleeder on top = trapped air can escape
You will have a super wicked nice brake system with fresh fluid throughout after this AND you have learned alot about your brakes!!
 






Problem solved :) Thank you boominx! I can't believe the amount of time I wasted messing with other crap. Thanks to everyone else too, for helping with everything..you guys are great.

I switched the calipers, and also installed speed bleeders on them. So once they were switched, all I did was attach a rubber hose with one end on the bleeder, the other in an empty bottle, opened the bleeder valve, and then pressed the brake pedal a few times to get that air out. After closing the bleeder and pressing the pedal, it actually built up pressure FINALLY. (for ppl reading this thread with similar issues)

Again, thanks everyone. Pics of the caliper correctly installed. (notice the jackstand :) )

Edit: The brakes (braking system) works like a charm now. Car stops like it's supposed to :). Pedal might be a bit spongy but it seems minor after MONTHS of either no brakes or very little. Again, thanks everyone! :)

20181207_180738.jpg
 






CONGRATS!!! The true meaning of perseverance. :chug:
 






Glad you got it stopping
 






At least you know you definitely have all fresh fluid in the lines now. The braking system should last the life of the truck now (other than pads). Glad to see you stuck with it and got it right.
 






Boomin is always the man.
 



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Well done, and after a little mileage, have a person help to bleed them once more.
 






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