Stock Tow Hitch, Anybody use it?

[Bottomlesspit]

Dew,
Sorry to hear you are having such troubles. I would have never thought about the clasp problems you have. I'll keep my thinking cap on for this one. Don't really have any ideas right now, other than the quick links you mentioned.

trayson,
The write up is going to help me a lot. I haven't had time to start tearing things apart yet, but hope to get to it soon. I'm a bit worried about chipping/scratching up my rear bumber, etc when I do it. I hope the rear bumper will slide off real easy.
One quick question: Did you get to use the stock bolts that held the class II hitch on, or did you have to buy new hardware? I want to be prepared.
Thanks again,
Ken

 

[Am_Dew]

Dew,
Sorry to hear you are having such troubles. I would have never thought about the clasp problems you have. I'll keep my thinking cap on for this one. Don't really have any ideas right now, other than the quick links you mentioned.

Yea, I wonder why Ford (or whomever supplies them to Ford) used such heavy duty material for those eyes, especially since it's only a class II rated hitch. The eyes on the class III U-Haul hitch on my previous Explorer were not nearly as heavy duty as these are. Like I said, a 9/16" wrench does not even fit over them...they are probably 5/8" diameter at the smallest point.

 

[Bottomlesspit]

trayson,
I need some info. Could you explain how the STOCK Ford 7 pin plug fits/attaches to the class III hitch? I am trying to determine if I need to try and purchase a Ford 7 pin plug (if available at all as a seperate item) or use the Auto Zone 7 pin adapter that uses our flat 4 to 7 adapter. I don't see how these will attach to that round hole on the hitch. I notice the one from AZ comes with a L plate to attach to, but don't see a "nice looking" way to attach it. I wonder if the Ford one attaches "nicer"?
Any info would be appreciated once again.
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Am_Dew]

OK, I found (at Home Depot of all places!) a set of trailer safety cables made by Master Lock which have safety hooks with openings on them large enough to fit over the large stock hitch eyes.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009V1WTS/104-9162863-8020755?v=glance&n=228013

Bob

 

[trayson]

trayson,
I need some info. Could you explain how the STOCK Ford 7 pin plug fits/attaches to the class III hitch? I am trying to determine if I need to try and purchase a Ford 7 pin plug (if available at all as a seperate item) or use the Auto Zone 7 pin adapter that uses our flat 4 to 7 adapter. I don't see how these will attach to that round hole on the hitch. I notice the one from AZ comes with a L plate to attach to, but don't see a "nice looking" way to attach it. I wonder if the Ford one attaches "nicer"?
Any info would be appreciated once again.
Thanks,
Ken

Gosh, I am not really sure how it attaches... My trailer wiring was already in the hitch and I installed them both together...

If you use an adapter, and want to use the 12v positive functionality of a 7 pin, then you'll have to tap into power somewhere. Obviously it's available at the connection where the hitch wiring pigtail plugs in. I use the 12v from the 7-pin. I have a tent trailer, and one of the big reasons I like the 7 pin is because it has a power feed to allow me to run my Fridge on 12v while I'm driving down the road. I could also charge my trailer battery while driving down the road.

Depending on the price of the pigtail, I think it'd be the cleanest, easiest and best option.

 

[trayson]

Dew,
Sorry to hear you are having such troubles. I would have never thought about the clasp problems you have. I'll keep my thinking cap on for this one. Don't really have any ideas right now, other than the quick links you mentioned.

trayson,
The write up is going to help me a lot. I haven't had time to start tearing things apart yet, but hope to get to it soon. I'm a bit worried about chipping/scratching up my rear bumber, etc when I do it. I hope the rear bumper will slide off real easy.
One quick question: Did you get to use the stock bolts that held the class II hitch on, or did you have to buy new hardware? I want to be prepared.
Thanks again,
Ken

Yes, the 6 big stock bolts were just fine. ***IF*** you remove all the right bolts, the bumper slides off very easy (assuming you've lifted the corners first to detach them from their clips).

 

[trayson]

I towed my 17' fiberglass boat for the first time last weekend using the stock class II hitch on my 2005 Explorer. Towed very nicely across town.

One thing I found out though is that the safety snaps which attach my trailer's safety chains to the hitch did not work...their openings were not nearly big enough to fit over the heavy rounded eye bars on either side of the stock hitch receiver. To get the boat where I wanted, I looped the safety chain thru the eyes and then bolted the chain back onto itself, which is fine to do once in a while but not something I want to have to do every time. So, I go out and buy a couple of larger safety snaps only to find that they also did not open wide enough, or at best barely fit over but then were a pain to get off again.

I live in California where the law states that your safety chains must be attached to your vehicle with something that closes...in other words, a standard s-hook like those found on most safety chains is illegal...the hook has to be able to fully close. But I am having a hard time finding any hooks that open wide enough to go over the hefty, circle shaped bars attached to the hitch on the rear of my Explorer. The only thing I've found is very heavy duty clevis hooks, which are complete overkill. To give you an idea how beefy these rounded bars are, I could not get a 9/16" open end wrench over them.

Anyone have any suggestions? I could always use big quick links (the ones that screw open and closed) but being able to use a hook of some kind is much easier.

Thanks!

Bob

Easy, go to any store that sells rock climbing or mountain climbing equipment. Buy two carabiners. They have them in plenty of sizes with wide gates. They have autolocking ones, screw gates, regular gates. Everything your heart could desire. They are light weight, but incredibly strong.

I'd recommend this one:
Carabiner from REI

It has a strength rating (when the gate's closed) of 31 Kilonewtons, which I believe is just under 7,000 pounds. It only costs $5.50 each and would look good as well as be light, simple and functional.

 

[Am_Dew]

Thanks trayson! I know what caribiners are used for and everything but I had not idea they were this strong. Oh well...I've got the rubber coated Master Lock saftey cables installed and in my few times using them so far they are much easier to deal with than chains.

 

[blichy]

Thanks trayson! I know what caribiners are used for and everything but I had not idea they were this strong. Oh well...I've got the rubber coated Master Lock saftey cables installed and in my few times using them so far they are much easier to deal with than chains.

Just be aware that if the chains are going to be put into use, the shock loading that is going to occur will be MUCH higher than the weight of the trailer.

 

[AlaskaExplorer]

Ok, I've read the owner's manual, called the dealership, and talked to two reputable installation places. No one is giving me the same answer.

Can anyone tell me whether I can tow my 1,600 lb pop-up trailer with my 4.0L with a Class II hitch??

Thanks!

 

[Am_Dew]

Ok, I've read the owner's manual, called the dealership, and talked to two reputable installation places. No one is giving me the same answer.

Can anyone tell me whether I can tow my 1,600 lb pop-up trailer with my 4.0L with a Class II hitch??

Thanks!

As long as you follow all the standard precautions, preparations, use the proper equipment, etc., I don't see any reason why you can't tow it.

Are the ones who tell you you can't tow it, giving you any reasons? If so, what are they saying?

 

[AlaskaExplorer]

Are the ones who tell you you can't tow it, giving you any reasons? If so, what are they saying?

The debate is whether I need a Class III hitch or whether the Class II is sufficient. I'd like to save the $200 + that a Class III costs, but it's not worth sacrificing safety. I just can't find anyone who knows what they're talking about to tell me either way.

 

[Am_Dew]

The debate is whether I need a Class III hitch or whether the Class II is sufficient. I'd like to save the $200 + that a Class III costs, but it's not worth sacrificing safety. I just can't find anyone who knows what they're talking about to tell me either way.

If you have not already done so, carefully read the section of your owner's manual where it talks about towing and towing capacities and how to check your vehicle for them, then make your own decision based upon that....I don't think Ford would risk having that information incorrect. Class II hitches are supposedly rated to tow up to 3500 lbs and you're well under that, so my first thought is that I would think you'd be fine with the class II as long as your Explorer is standard and it came from the factory with the class II hitch installed. Otherwise, why would have Ford even installed it? (just thinking to myself out loud there)

 

[AlaskaExplorer]

If you have not already done so, carefully read the section of your owner's manual where it talks about towing and towing capacities and how to check your vehicle for them, then make your own decision based upon that....I don't think Ford would risk having that information incorrect. Class II hitches are supposedly rated to tow up to 3500 lbs and you're well under that, so my first thought is that I would think you'd be fine with the class II as long as your Explorer is standard and it came from the factory with the class II hitch installed. Otherwise, why would have Ford even installed it? (just thinking to myself out loud there)

Ok, I've got it. I was having a hard time deciphering the different "maximum weights", but I just got it cleared up. My installer here agrees that the factory-installed Class II is sufficient. Thanks.

 

[Am_Dew]

Ok, I've got it. I was having a hard time deciphering the different "maximum weights", but I just got it cleared up. My installer here agrees that the factory-installed Class II is sufficient. Thanks.

Good to hear!

Have fun and safe towing!

 

[Bottomlesspit]

Thanks again Trayson...and all the rest of you happy haulers out here!
My big question is really just how the stock Ford 7 pin round wire connector fits into the hitch? Right now I have a huge empty round hole straight through the hitch. Quite ugly to say the least. The Auto Zone special slides into the hole, but doesn't really have anywhere to screw down to. It just doesn't look like it quite fits there, so it looks cheesy.
I am wondering if the stock one just slips into this huge round hole and has some screws holding it in place, a huge nut on the back, a C clip, chewing gum, coat hanger wire, etc. Just what holds the connector in place?
Just a quick peek under the bumper should make it obvious. Is there another bent metal plate that forms around the Ford plug and then mounts to the hitch? That's how this AZ one works...there just isn't any place to screw the plate to.
I would appreciate any help here so I can make the best decision. I'm not asking about the wiring itself, that's for another day!
Thanks,
Ken

 

[blichy]

Thanks again Trayson...and all the rest of you happy haulers out here!
My big question is really just how the stock Ford 7 pin round wire connector fits into the hitch? Right now I have a huge empty round hole straight through the hitch. Quite ugly to say the least. The Auto Zone special slides into the hole, but doesn't really have anywhere to screw down to. It just doesn't look like it quite fits there, so it looks cheesy.
I am wondering if the stock one just slips into this huge round hole and has some screws holding it in place, a huge nut on the back, a C clip, chewing gum, coat hanger wire, etc. Just what holds the connector in place?
Just a quick peek under the bumper should make it obvious. Is there another bent metal plate that forms around the Ford plug and then mounts to the hitch? That's how this AZ one works...there just isn't any place to screw the plate to.
I would appreciate any help here so I can make the best decision. I'm not asking about the wiring itself, that's for another day!
Thanks,
Ken

I will take a look at mine tonight to see how the plug attaches to the hitch bar--I don't remember seeing a coat hanger there, so it may be chewing gum (probably Wrigleys).

 

[daprez1963]

U-Haul

I was in the local U-Haul filling up my propane tanks for our grill and asked the dealer here about trailers I could use to move some stuff across country next year and he informed me that U-Haul will not rent trailers to Ford Explorer trucks due to the lawsuit that Ford included U-Haul in for the roll-over accidents....Anyone ever hear about this before? I am not sure what type hitch I have on my 2002 XLT 4.0 2WD....Any info on what trailer I should use (max) either way on II or III...thx

 

[daprez1963]

just checked

I have the 4 plug wiring underneath...so I guess I have the type II hitch....

 

[Jefe]

I was in the local U-Haul filling up my propane tanks for our grill and asked the dealer here about trailers I could use to move some stuff across country next year and he informed me that U-Haul will not rent trailers to Ford Explorer trucks due to the lawsuit that Ford included U-Haul in for the roll-over accidents....Anyone ever hear about this before? I am not sure what type hitch I have on my 2002 XLT 4.0 2WD....Any info on what trailer I should use (max) either way on II or III...thx

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96237