Swap out Twin I beam Suspension

[lonewhitewolf13]

I want to get rid on my 95 rangers twin i front suspension just dont like the idea of camper change eveytime i hit a bump. what is a good idea to swapout the front suspension without doing and major frame alterations.

 

[94xlt4.0]

in all honesty theres only two viable and cost effective options. sell the i beam truck and buy an a-armed truck or convert to 4wd and use a solid front axle

 

[Scott B.]

I hate to break this to you, but the Twin-I-Beam is a really good suspension. Depending on your use, it is the best choice.

As it comes from Ford, it needs a little "massaging". It is much less expensive to tune a TTB than replace it with a solid axle. (If you want to go IFS, sell the truck and buy a different one.)

I know people have different opinions - it just depends on what you want to do with the truck.

 

[shooterdude199]

i believe camburg has a bunch of stuff on ibeam rangers. many companies actually make long travel kits although you have to spend the money it would be badass and you get a really comfortable ride as well. see if there is a coilover conversion kit you can find. coilovers will really improve ride quality and suspension performance. one problem I see with sas is it may actually require more money and a lot more work and plus that ifs has always had the more "comfortable" ride quality over the solid axle. yes the solid axle can get you more places where you wanna go but ive only heard from the description of what you want is ride quality. so i think just making your original suspension better without having to spend a ton of money and time and not having to buy a whole new truck is to find coilovers. research big companies such as camburg, fabtech, rcd, dixon bros. they should all atleast have something. good luck

 

[Chris333]

I don't understand this thread. I have 170K on a '97 Ranger I bought new. I'm on just my 4th set of tires.
Twin I beam was crap in the 1970s. I owned a '72 F100 and a '77 F150 that ate right-front tires if you didn't strictly adhere to 5,000-mile tire rotation schedule.
Ford finally got it sorted out. I NEVER rotated a set of Goodyear Wrangler AT/S tires I had on this Ranger for over 5 years and 60,000 miles.
Unfortunately, most tire companies no longer make 225-14s. Choices are down to Cooper (gone in 40,000) or wears-like-iron Kumho which has only so-so wet and winter traction.

 

[MercuryMullet]

I changed from a-arms to I-beams. agreed = solid axle or buy a newer one. And if you are worried about camber, remember the ifs components (bearings, axles) are more expensive to replace from what I have seen than you tires would be. I'd take my chances with the Ibeams.

 

[legoms013]

All suspension types allow for camber change during the cycling to some degree. The TTB just has the highest degree of change.

It is the toe variation as the suspension cycles on a TTB that wears tires due to the geometry of the steering linkage (and usually coupled with a lift). However it stock height is maintained, and a good alignment is done weird tire wear is almost non-existant.

If you are lifted get the steering linkages FLAT, that will alleviate handlig and wear problems.

Sorry but even a solid axle has "camber change" as it goes up and down (on bumps that affect one tire). But a bump equal in displacement for both tires yields parallel tire movement (which I guess aesthetically is more appealing to the eyes than the TTB tires looking like this upon full bump /--o-\ ).

The "idea" of camber change doesn't seem like a great reason to entirely change a suspension setup.

If you want to get away from it, it would be easier to sell and buy another truck, than to try and modify SLA or SAS for your current one...

 

[4x4junkie]

I don't understand this thread. I have 170K on a '97 Ranger I bought new. I'm on just my 4th set of tires.

These threads happen because people don't understand (or refuse to understand) the suspension and so they get it into their head that they have a problem with it simply because someone told them so.

Like you, I've never had anything but excellent life from my tires.
My truck is fairly-well modified, however my steering linkage is in proper position with the axle beams as Legoms mentions (like stock would be), and I always use OEM (or better) quality replacement parts when needed (Spicer Pro-Grade balljoints, Timken brand wheel bearings & races, Spicer u-joints, etc.). Never have had any problem to make me want to swap it out for something else.

Unfortunately, most tire companies no longer make 225-14s. Choices are down to Cooper (gone in 40,000) or wears-like-iron Kumho which has only so-so wet and winter traction.

You might want to swap your 14" wheels for some 15s from a 4WD (or '00 & later 2WD) truck. This will open up a ton more tire options for you.
A 215/70R15 is barely bigger overall diameter than your 225/70R14s (less than ½" difference) and will fit yours no problem (might even give you better mileage and handling due to it's slightly narrower profile and it's shorter sidewall height.)

 

[RangerBroRunner]

I changed from a-arms to I-beams. agreed = solid axle or buy a newer one. And if you are worried about camber, remember the ifs components (bearings, axles) are more expensive to replace from what I have seen than you tires would be. I'd take my chances with the Ibeams.

How much was it to swap a arms for I beams and how much work was it? I am thinking of swapping mine out too