Sway Bar Links Question

[Drummadude]

Hi all,

This forum is encouraging me to have confidence in working on my Ex myself, but so far I've just done little things, such as wiring. I haven't even done an oil change myself.

I noticed today one of my front sway bar links is nonexistent and I want this to be my first project. I've been hearing clunking and have been lubing the bushings and just happened to notice it THIS time.

I've seen various threads and Youtube videos to understand it, but I have two main questions:

Do I need to jack the car up at all?, and

Do the links need to be torqued to some specs or just tightened?


P.S. When the weather is warmer I want to change my rear differential fluid because it has been leaking from the rear plate. Can that be done without jacking it up? The reason I asked that for both is that I don't have jack stands yet and simply have the stock scissor jack.

Thanks.

 

[esclamada]

you don't need to jack it up, it's just easier to work on it if you have a floor jack and remove the tire (simulate the load without the tire on) Moog doesn't specify the torque, tighten it only until the bushing started to expand and loosen. 18ft lbs is OK.


http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.276905402377618.61962.110528882348605&type=3






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MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

 

[Drummadude]

Thanks esclamada. That's a great Facebook tutorial!

 

[swshawaii]

Keep the wheels on the ground and turn to lock for each side.
Loosen the sway bar frame brackets and pull the bar down to
loosely thread the link nuts. (If you have enough working space)
Straighten the wheels and tighten till the bushings slightly compress.
I found 18 ft/lbs was too tight for the Moog K7275 lock nuts
and thermoplastic rubber bushings. Blew out two pairs, twice.

 

[HiImBrian]

Sway-bar links were the first project I did myself too. I wouldn't use the Moog bushings that come with the new links. I went to Advance Auto and got new Moog links and installed them correctly, but the Moog bushings only lasted a week. I went back and handed them the old torn bushings, and they gave me a set of Energy Suspension Poly bushings for $5. They have been on for about a year and have been fine.
What I replaced originally:

The Moog bushings after the first week:

The ES bushings I have now are red.

Oh and I don't change my own oil... I'd rather buy the stuff and pay my mechanic $15-$20 to do it. That's a hassle I'd rather not bother with....

Btw, I'm the Snare/Tenor instructor here at USF Tampa and a former Blue Devil.

 

[swshawaii]

+1 Brian. Benefit of the Moog kit is the large 7/16" bolt size.
Energy Suspension and other end link replacements are 3/8".
I used the ES 9.8103 bushings and reduced the nipple size (middle pic)
to 11/16" so they would fit in the sway bar eyelets correctly.

 

[HiImBrian]

+1 Brian. Benefit of the Moog kit is the large 7/16" bolt size.
Energy Suspension and other end link replacements are 3/8".
I used the ES 9.8103 bushings and reduced the nipple size
to 11/16" so they would fit in the sway bar eyelets correctly.

Yeah, I did have to squeeze them on the larger Moog bolts, but they did fit...

 

[swshawaii]

Brian- Thanks for the pics. Exact same thing happened to me, twice.
Maybe Moog should stick with real suspension parts, not blue bushings. JMO

 

[HiImBrian]

Brian- Thanks for the pics. Exact same thing happened to me, twice.
Maybe Moog should stick with real suspension parts, not blue bushings. JMO

No problem. Moog makes great poly bushings, they are just sold separately and are a bit overpriced.

 

[Drummadude]

Thanks for the pictures guys. This will really help. What model number for Moog's is needed?

Well, the reason I asked about torquing is I don't own such a beast as a torque wrench.

As for oil changes, the shop I go to charges $30. Supplies are already $20+, so it's not a bad deal. I'll bet they would charge a hundred bucks for this seemingly simple repair, so I want to do it!

 

[HiImBrian]

Thanks for the pictures guys. This will really help. What model number for Moog's is needed?

Well, the reason I asked about torquing is I don't own such a beast as a torque wrench.

As for oil changes, the shop I go to charges $30. Supplies are already $20+, so it's not a bad deal. I'll bet they would charge a hundred bucks for this seemingly simple repair, so I want to do it!

I don't have a part number, just go to your local auto parts store and they'll get you the right ones. I'm sure they could set you up with some better bushings too.

When it comes to installing them, just tighten until all 4 are a little squished. Just a little, not too much. If you look at my 2nd picture, the top one is squished TOO MUCH. Not because I over tightened, because the other side was still intact.

And for my oil changes I only use full synthetics and a K&N filter, not the generic crap most shops supply. I buy the stuff and bring it with me. It'd be about $100 to have them do your links, and they would use cheap links and bushings.

 

[swshawaii]

As Brian said, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Very easy job if you don't have
to cut the stock links to remove. One K7275 kit needed for each side.

Moog instructions: Tighten the nut until the bushing starts to expand. Loosen the nut 1/4 turn. (That's all they wrote)

Amazon product ASIN B000C57YMK

 

[Drummadude]

Old bushings fused to plastic sheath

On closer inspection, my passenger front link was as Esclamada's. The top corroded and fell off. So I cut it off above the second lowest bushing.

It appears the bushing is fused to the plastic. Maybe I'll have to borrow a Dremel but is there another way? Basically all that remains is a 3 inch piece and 2 bushings on the control arm.

My hacksaw is too long to fit to cut level on the control arm.

 

[stuartr]

I had to put a drivers side on when I done my upper ball joints. I like to never got the old one off as well. I was going to cut it and though how about a little fire. I put a propane torch on it for just abit and came right off. So much easier than cutting it. This improved the drive of my Mounty soooo much. Between that and 2 new upper ball joints and a new rear spring it handles like a corvette now. Good luck with the fix and don't be afraid pretty easy. This may be the part that gets you to working on some stuff yourself. As for the oil changes, no way I will pay someone. It takes no time to do and very few tools. You could change oil twice for what you pay to have it done once.
Stu