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t-case swap question

dogbis

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City, State
south bend,in
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 sport
I know there is probably a thread on this but I wore myself out trying to find it.I'm looking for information on putting a manual t-case in a 96 sport. It has the 4405 in it know and would like to possibly stick a 1354 in it. What would I need? Is there any certian 1354? Do I need to change driveshafts? Any info. would be appreciated! If there is threads on this swap could ya post the links. Thanks, Jeff by the way what years t-case will work
 



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Members will tell you their are a ton of threads, go search, but there really isn't any good ones.

I'm in the same boat right now. I'm staring at a 1354 manual sitting in my bedroom right now.

Are you interested in a manual or an electric 1354?

Whichever one it is, one of your problems will be with your front driveshaft. You have a '96 Sport, which was the last year for the double-cardan style front driveshaft, however & unfortunately, the '96 had a very unique driveshaft compared to 91-94's. Which one of the driveshafts below looks like yours?

I don't know what years the 1354e came in, but if you're looking for a manual, I do know that they were only on the 91-94 Ex's, which have the basic u-joint connection like in the 2nd pic, which means 99% of the 1354 manuals will have (besides rare 21st century 1354m's from Rangers, which had CV cup flanges).

So the question for you is, if you're getting a 1354, man or elec, from a 91-94 Ex or Ranger, will the 91-94 front driveshaft be the proper length for your odd-ball '96 Sport? There's a post someone here that discusses the odd front driveshaft lengths on '95 and '96's, but I don't think any real answers came from it.

I plan on doing a writeup, and further researching the driveshaft thing for myself. Take some pics of your front driveshaft, and measure its overall length, as well as the "prop shaft" length. Compare those results with www.cardone.com, which gives a few dimensions and post them.
 

Attachments

  • Cardone 65-9622 Front Driveshaft Double Cardan for 96 Ex with 27 & 13-16-in Prop Shaft.jpg
    Cardone 65-9622 Front Driveshaft Double Cardan for 96 Ex with 27 & 13-16-in Prop Shaft.jpg
    21.8 KB · Views: 269
  • Cardone 65-9623 Front Driveshaft Double Cardan for 95 4-door & 96 with 28.25-in Prop Shaft.jpg
    Cardone 65-9623 Front Driveshaft Double Cardan for 95 4-door & 96 with 28.25-in Prop Shaft.jpg
    18.5 KB · Views: 265
  • Transfer Case 1354 Manual in Crate.JPG
    Transfer Case 1354 Manual in Crate.JPG
    148.4 KB · Views: 266






Would like to go manual.My drive shaft looks like the fourth pic.FRom what I have found you should be able to use the drive shaft from the donor vehicle along w/shift linkage may have to shorten d/s.Every thread i've seen has been pretty vague on this swap so i'm definitly looking foward to a good write up.If I run across any better info. I will post here. Thanks for taking this on glad to know someone else is reasearching this also. Jeff
 






There's really only 2 pics of driveshafts up there. Are you saying you don't have the driveshaft with the big circular flange on the t-case end? If so, then it seems you are probably in good shape and you should use the front driveshaft you have now since it looks like it may be a different length than the 91-94 shafts.

Make sure you have the two shifter linkage bolt bosses on your 4x4 extension housing. I'm sure you do, but I don't and now I have to hunt one down.

I'm going to have the shifter linkage assembly for sale after I get the Ranger FX4 version.
 






No flange it has the u-joint clamp.I do have the bosses.I,m in the process of looking for/pricing out a 1354.What would be a reasonable price?And do you need the tunnel plate or can you just cut the floor for the shift handle?I'm looking to do this very soon (tax time!)right now i have no 4wd and we have snow to play in.
 






I'm near NYC, so I'm used to paying top dollar for used car parts. I bought mine for $200, which is an excellent price. I would say anything from $200-300 is a good deal from ebay or such, not including the shipping. I'm not too familiar with junk yards, but if you can find one, you'd prob get it cheaper. The 1354 will be priced premium over the 1350.

You can do it as cleanly as you want. Cut the floor for free or pay your dealership for a plate, your call. The shift linkage is fully supported by the 2 bolts into the extension housing, so you just need a hole in the floor tunnel for the shifter to stick out of.

I would recommended purchasing the black rubber inner boot. It is made of thick rubber and seals against the floor and hugs the shifter tightly. This will significantly seal out road noise compared to having an open hole in the floor. From there, it is up to you with the dressing up of the outer boot. There are many options.

I'm going for the 2002+ Ranger FX4 shifters. They have limited edition chrome shifters. Be aware that I'm pretty sure the entire shift linkage is different for these, so if you want to go that route too, all the part numbers may be different.
 






Just at the local u-pullit yard lots of x's no manual t-case. Very few rangers. The search continues.
 






Having trouble finding a 1354 manual shift anyone point me in the right direction?
 






There is no right direction, keep looking, they're rare. AFAIK you can swap the front output yoke with the CV style one and logically it seems your current front driveshaft should work then.
 






All the research I have done says that the 1354 is direct bolt-in.No changes in d/s or t-case needed just need a hole in the floor. I could be wrong though seems tough to get info. on this swap.
 






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