Take 3 - 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

[Spudhut]

So the radio in this thing; screen doesn't work - including the sound quality is below sub par. I plan on removing the stock radio and replacing with a double din unit, along with changing out the stock speakers to new 6x9's. Amazingly, the rear sub still works, but I will remove the stock woofer and Amp and put in an aftermarket units.

When removing the stock radio, Besides loosing my steering wheel switches for the radio, will this impact any other interface switches? Is there a way to integrate steering wheel switches to new radio?

 

[RandomNerd2000]

You lose the switches in the console for the back seat passengers, unless you're like me and don't even leave the rear seat folded up. I've had good luck with the rear stock sub, I've had every one I've ever run across work fine. You'll lose that too unless you get the $15 adapter, which I've done for my Eddie Bauer. However, some higher end radios support steering wheel controls, but you have to research those, they aren't cheap either.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Almost every $250 double din radio supports steering wheel functions, it’s an add on item you splice in and program. It lets you program additional things on buttons using a hold, or double tap. I’d get rid of all the stock wiring, and amps, and run new door wires, and power the replacement sub with its own dedicated amp using RCAs.

There are some bad ass 5 channel amps these days that are very efficient, and will easily power a 300w subwoofer. Kicker makes a reasonable 6.5 subwoofer for under $100. It’d blow the stock unit away, easily.

 

[410Fortune]

You can also forget double din unless you are watching movies. Now days I like to just get a tiny bluetooth head unit (just a knob) or even a blue tooth amp and skip the head unit all together.....gives you lots of ways to use that space.......

 

[Mbrooks420]

I was planning on double din and making it a backup camera, and also tying it in to my multifunction switch to show side views when activated.

I think with a little creativity I could do it for well under 100.

It would also do my navigation with WAZE and help me keep my license.

 

[Spudhut]

Thanks guys.

As it is important to retain the stock functions in our vehicles, I don't want to loose the steering wheel controls.

I did a little research and found this little GEM that can be used with any aftermarket radio. Its as simple as wiring up 3 wires.

Axxess Integrate - ASWC-1 - Instructions - Avg $46 Cost

 

[410Fortune]

$440
Maximizer Header For 1997 98 99 00 2001 Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L 708036071345 | eBay

 

[Spudhut]

New set of Headlights installed. What a difference!

 

[Spudhut]

Saturday my son asked me to show him how to change his oil in his little Toyota Yaris. I figured it was a perfect time while showing him how to do that, I would do little work under the hood on the Mountaineer.

I have been getting some squeaks from the belt or idler pulleys and the PO thought maybe the thermostat was out since the heater didn't heat up as well as it should. On top of that, the Temperature Gauge was not working either.

I plugged in my Wifi OBDII and kicked on FordScan Lite App on my android to see if the temp sensor was getting any voltage...Check!...1V

I pulled the wiring from the Temp Sensor and grounded it to verify the gauge. It checked out good....Check! (When it goes to ground, the gauge should peg to "Full" or "Hot" status)

I figured it was a bad sensor at this point and pulled my spares out and shelf'ed them on the battery for later installation to continue my troubleshooting.

I had a new (192 degree) Thermostat and gasket on hand so I figured I would tackle this now, check the pulleys to find the squeak and then swap out sensors.

Thermostat when in like Flynn. The old Thermostat "Looked" fine, it was a Motorcraft unit and could have been Original parts from the factory. Installed the new piece, checked hoses and refilled radiator.

I fired up the "Mounty" to burp the engine and get the air bubbles out...while it was running, my 11 yr old son came out and was curious. Teachable Moment - I showed him what I was doing, explained sensors, and how the FordScan App interfaces, thermostat functions and belt re-installation. "Cool Dad!" he says.

As the engine was warming up, We jumped into the "Mounty" (to get out of the cold and warm up) and noticed.... HEY! the temp guage was working! I was overjoyed ... but I was still perplexed how changing the thermostat had any bearing on its functionality, except maybe it just routed water towards the sensor to heat it up? Can anyone elaborate how the 2 function together?

It was a good weekend...I think the rear wiper motor crapped out or maybe its the switch, so I will need to troubleshoot it to get it working again.

Ugh! Always something.

 

[Spudhut]

Family Photo -

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I like that Mountaineer a lot, I've thought about converting my 2000 to a Mountaineer front but my inner support is black and it needs all new lights, grille is good though. I'm almost certainly going to use the bumper since mine has no fog lights in it, one broke out on it's own and I don't even know where the other is.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Family Photo -

We have twins!

 

[toypaseo]

It was a good weekend...I think the rear wiper motor crapped out or maybe its the switch, so I will need to troubleshoot it to get it working again.

Mine stopped working for not reason on my 96. Read on here to slam the hatch repeatedly. Started working, and has worked ever since I did that.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Maybe your sensor was/is faulty, and your work in the area improved the contacts or improved a connection or just changed things slightly such that the sensor is now working.

Rear wiper motor comment: I bought two fairly expensive rebuilt rear wiper motors on my 97 that did not last more than a few months. Junk rebuilt motors. Finally got an OEM rear wiper motor from a salvage yard, which was less than 25% of the cost, and have not had any problems since. I now avoid junk rebuilt rear wiper motors.

Good luck with your project and your young assistant!

 

[410Fortune]

wiper motor issues, always check the tailgate lift up glass interlock switch first. Glass is not closed wiper will not run
The switch gets dirty and can easily be cleaned or replaced or even bypassed

 

[Spudhut]

Mine stopped working for not reason on my 96. Read on here to slam the hatch repeatedly. Started working, and has worked ever since I did that.

I did that by accident last week and I had a working wiper. I checked my relays and I have an extra wiper switch I'll swap out just to rule out that piece. Ill certainly update the thread as I find a solution.

wiper motor issues, always check the tailgate lift up glass interlock switch first. Glass is not closed wiper will not run
The switch gets dirty and can easily be cleaned or replaced or even bypassed

Thanks for the tip, Ill be checking this for sure.

We have twins!

We'll have to check build dates to see how far apart their birthdays are

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Mine has a build date of 12/96!

 

[Spudhut]

Changed her fluids and filter over the weekend. Oil on sale at $4 a quart, couldn't resist! If the weather ever warms up, she will be detailed inside and out.

Climbed under the front bumper, I checked and cleaned all the connections for the fog lights and got them all hooked into the factory harness. Working lamps is always a plus!

 

[BradyGoat]

It’s a super common issue. The bracket is too flimsy and bends. It can be beefed up. You can also lift the arm and remove a little material from the arm stops to gain more travel. There’s a thread on it somewhere.

Yup, I'm a little late, but mine was doing the same thing.

All I did, was take off the arm, took a grinder to those little stops so it would gain more travel, and it works like a million bucks. Free fix that has made winter driving a lot better!

 

[Mbrooks420]

Changed her fluids and filter over the weekend. Oil on sale at $4 a quart, couldn't resist! If the weather ever warms up, she will be detailed inside and out.

Climbed under the front bumper, I checked and cleaned all the connections for the fog lights and got them all hooked into the factory harness. Working lamps is always a plus!

At $4 a quart I would have kicked in the extra $5 and went full synthetic. I’m assuming there’s a 5th quart not shown?