Temp problems

[ammo troop]

Happy Holidays Folks!
Need some assistance from the audience,

Have a 92' Ranger 2wd, 2.3l V8 wannabe 5spd,
2 weeks ago changed timing belt, water pump, and thermostat, installed a new Mechanical temp guage (old one broke)

Anyways all works well with the exception of the water temp, only registars 150 tops on the guage, checked temp with a laser thermo and guage is accurate.

Removed thermo, tested in pan of water and opens at 190 like it should, reinstalled
Water pump seems to be flowing in correct direction.

not getting good heat at all, heater hoses are luke warm

Temp will get to 190 after a few minutes of 2000 RPM sitting still, but returns to 150 range when driving

Guage fluctuates like has air pocket but have been running a bleeder cap on radiator for past 3 days

Need some advice on next step to take, my gas miliage and toes are suffering
(it's cold here in S.E Ohio!)

Thanks in advance for any help

Ammo Troop

 

[Rick]

Restrict the airflow going through the radiator... Start a little at a time and check your results.

 

[RockRanger]

Is the fan clutch frozen up and not disingaging the fan causing it to pull to much air through the radiator not allowing it to warm up? Just a guess.

 

[ammo troop]

Thanks for the replys, I will restrict the air flow and post results,
How should I check the fan clutch, it should spin freely when the truck is not running right?

Ammo Troop

 

[RockRanger]

Thanks for the replys, I will restrict the air flow and post results,
How should I check the fan clutch, it should spin freely when the truck is not running right?

Ammo Troop

With the motor running reach in and grab it. If you can grab it then it is bad just kidding its only a joke dont try that.

From my understanding is that when the motor is cold (and off) the fan should spin pretty freely by hand. Then get the motor good and warm like where you said you can get it to 190 then shut off the motor and see if the fan is any harder to turn. It should be. If the fan is hard to turn even when cold then the fan clutch could be frozen up and pulling to much air through the radiator when you are driving. This is coming from someone who has always lived in warm areas so I havnet had much experance dealing with places that get below the single digets.

 

[Rick]

I used to live in Chicago and cardboard in front of the radiator was not uncommon at all

 

[ammo troop]

Blocked off radiator completely, used the gutted radiator cap so any air should flow in coolant bottle, ran it up 210F thinking that should free any air pockets, removed cardboard, installed proper rad cap and temp went right back to 150 range, checked fan clutch, spins freely when cold and after warmed to 190 range.
Thinking of possible defective water pump, since it is a rebuilt unit, remanufacture co. might have installed impeller backwards?

I do get fluctuations in temp guage when driving, 10-20 degrees, kind of points me to trapped air pockets...correct?

Truck had no problem keeping temp last winter, problem only surfaced after recent repairs...so much for preventative maintenance! Glad this isn't one of my boss's customers vehicles!

Anything else to try?
Thanks
Ammo Troop

Truck had proper temp before I tore into it and installed new parts

 

[Rick]

When my temp started to fluctuate like that it turned out to be a leak in the radiator between the core and the plastic tank. The leak wasn't even dripping on the ground. The little fluid that seeped out was getting trapped in a big wad of road debris under the radiator.

 

[rookieshooter]

But is the t-stat closing back down a little. Did it close back down when you took it out of the hot water? I had one that stuck open a little. You do have it pointing right way right? I don't know if this would have any thing to do with it. But do you have good flow thru incab heating coil?
Feel hose in and hose out. Seems to me if it was the water pump that it woud get hotter instead of cooler. I don't know about a ranger, but on many of my cars I use to take off radiator cap when cold and watched the water as the t-stat opened. You should be able to see the water start flowing at a good clip.

 

[ammo troop]

I can see the water pump working when t-stat opens, seems like good flow thru heater core (both hoses equal temp) and I'm not losing any coolant anywhere, (radiator, coolant tank) and I figured the unsteady temp needle part, seems to move with the truck, i.e bumps, getting in out of the cab etc.. so there goes that theory,
I guess I'm going to pull heater hoses and look for flow out of water pump side and go from there, the clutch fan idea is something I will look further into tommorrow

Eager to try any new fixes or ideas on this issue tho!

Thanks

 

[ammo troop]

Any advice?? Changed the water pump and thermo again, Have heat now, but temp is still 150 at speed, not letting it run in closed loop...drinking the gas.....any advice is welcome...and needed!

Thanks
Ammo Troop

 

[JustAGurl]

I'm having a similar problem. Lower hose split on the way home from work, couldn't get over to the shoulder because people are just plain rude. When I finally got to where I could pull over the old truck was pretty hot. I took it to my guy to fix because I live in the Antarctic midwest branch (Iowa) and I ran out of light and outdoor heat. Although the heat left a lot to be desired, especially when it dipped to single digits, it was good enough. Now it barely gets warm most of the time. Last night it got on the warm side for a while. I checked the fluid level when I got home and it seems to be ok, both hoses to the heater core are equally warm, not real hot, but not sure just how hot they are supposed to get. The temp gauge gets to where it normally gets and the fan is blowing out fine in all positions. Could this be a case of air bubbles? That puppy was drained and I'm starting to have doubts about my mechanic, not so sure he is the sharpest tool in the shed. Thoughts? I need some heat here, aside from frosty windows, my digits are getting frostbite. Thanks all.

 

[Scott B.]

I'm having a similar problem. Lower hose split on the way home from work, couldn't get over to the shoulder because people are just plain rude. When I finally got to where I could pull over the old truck was pretty hot. I took it to my guy to fix because I live in the Antarctic midwest branch (Iowa) and I ran out of light and outdoor heat. Although the heat left a lot to be desired, especially when it dipped to single digits, it was good enough. Now it barely gets warm most of the time. Last night it got on the warm side for a while. I checked the fluid level when I got home and it seems to be ok, both hoses to the heater core are equally warm, not real hot, but not sure just how hot they are supposed to get. The temp gauge gets to where it normally gets and the fan is blowing out fine in all positions. Could this be a case of air bubbles? That puppy was drained and I'm starting to have doubts about my mechanic, not so sure he is the sharpest tool in the shed. Thoughts? I need some heat here, aside from frosty windows, my digits are getting frostbite. Thanks all.

There could be some air in the system, but I'd guess the problem is a stuck open thermostat.

Since the hoses are all getting warm, and your engine is not overheating, there is sufficient fluid flowing to transfer heat.

 

[JustAGurl]

Thanks that's kind of my gut feeling as well. I was looking at the motor, the thermostat sure is not in a very conviant place. I called a couple of places since I don't have a garage to work in, I was floored $100+. I've done a few thermostats in my day, none quite this hard to get to, the timing belt seems to be an obstical. Does the the cover need to be removed to gain better access? I hate paying for something I can do my self. any tips? My usual guy said $40.

 

[JustAGurl]

One more thing, if it is an air pocket is this something that can be worked out? If so how?