That damn Haynes book.

[Tapemeasureman]

Im trying to pull my A4LD ? to R & R front seal. Haynes says there is a cover to remove, so as to access torque converter to flywheel bolts, NOT ON MINE.... there does seem to be a two part bellhousing, can I pull the tranny back to access these bolts without passing "point of no return" ? This is my first attempt at this....Can competently read technical material, but as we know haynes does not always fit that category, IE firing order etc.....silly, unimportant things like that.

Gregg

 

[BrooklynBay]

The cover is on the opposite side of the lower corner of the bellhousing. The cover has 2 bolts. This cover is designed to cover up the opposite starter pocket which isn't actually large enough for a starter. You could remove the starter to access the 4 torque converter bolts. Do you have a 3.0L or a 4.0L engine?

 

[Tapemeasureman]

The starter hole is in the front of the flexplate on mine, so I can see the tip of the bolt through the flywheel, not the heads of the bolts where they go through TC. Could I have some different set up other than original? Everything has been pulled loose, and is ready to come out except for this dilemma. I'm hesitant to pull it out because it is not as described in my Haynes book.

There is no separate cover for this access since it is a 4.0L.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The torque converter has threaded studs. You will see 4 nuts on the flexplate connecting the flexplate to the torque converter.

 

[Tapemeasureman]

you cannot see the TC, the only thing visible is the wrong side of the flywheel (from the front , where the starter came out) then you can only see the tips of the bolts that are in question, not the heads! My question is now, since everything else is disconnected, will it hurt anything to slide the tranny back and then explore removing the TC from the flywheel ? Somehow I dont think this is a standard application of this tranny and or bellhousing...there is a separation between the main transmission case and the bellhousing as indicated by a black gasket of some sort.

SORRY in last reply i said flexplate not flywheel, its late , I'm frustrated with things. its a 4.o , I think ts a A4LD, (no tag on tail piece) but there is no separate cover to gain access to TC...

 

[BrooklynBay]

The part is called a flexplate on an automatic transmission. It's a flywheel on a manual transmission. Rotate the engine with a breaker bar or a ratchet in order to see the 4 nuts connecting the torque converter to the flexplate. Don't remove or install the transmission with the torque converter connected to the flexplate.

 

[Tapemeasureman]

can you direct me to an "exploded view" diagram of this area where motor and tranny meet ?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here's a diagram of the front of the transmission:

 

[Tapemeasureman]

got it out now, THANX!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! How did you remove the torque converter nuts?

 

[Tapemeasureman]

through the starter hole, and buggered one up, but ultimately got it out. This makes three 1/2 days Ive got in it now, between dropping sockets and wrenches on top of engine trying to get dipstick out and loosing them down in the intake manifold. Having to make a special trip to 3 parts stores to round up a 12pt 12mm socket for the rear ujoint. Taking the rest of the day today off just to lay in front of a/c..Tomorrow I guess I'll do the seal, modulator and adjust the bands it should go back in MUCH faster now that I know what is what. again thanx for your help and advice. The pics in the Haynes book show a crankcase that is about 3" shorter than mine, AND a separate cover to access the flexplate, mine extends all the way down flush w/ the bellhousing, AND rather than a an access plate there is an flat, stamped aluminum dust cover that goes all the way around the bell housing The (motor )WAS replaced at some point as per yellow ink/paint from JUNKYARD! So that explains why its different! No tag on tail piece, so it could be a replacement too, may have even come w/ motor !? We'll never know exactly.

Gregg

 

[BrooklynBay]

I would recommend replacing those torque converter nuts. The correct nut to use has a small pinch that distorts its shape. This is done intentionally to prevent it from backing out under stress & vibration. There is a special tool which is made by Sunex for removing the 12MM 12 point bolts. I have a product review on it: http://www.explorerforum.com/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/458/cat/all

 

[Tapemeasureman]

I hadnt thought about that but, Ill at least put some permatex on those nuts maybe I can strike them w/ cold chisel first too. I'm going to have to replace at the very least, one, so I'll pick up a handful at Home Depot. I guess that is why those studs are slightly tapered, to accommodate the "ding"....I commented on the 12 pt "woble" too, some may find my comments humorous. You guys are such a great help, what the hell did we do before the internet ?

 

[Joe Dirt]

what the hell did we do before the internet ?

I don't know, but I had a LOT more free time.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here's an example of a pinched locknut:

There is also a locknut with a nylon insert:

By the way, you should replace the crankshaft to flexplate spacer while the transmission is out with a Sonnax billet steel part. Your model uses the one with 6 holes.
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Ford_flexplate_to_crank_spacer_p/400-056000cs6.htm
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/56000-CS6.pdf
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/108/original/TASC-TIP-10-04.pdf?1289926275

 

[Tapemeasureman]

Latest update and problem...tranny back in, functional although I may need to do some more adjusting to kick down. Newest dilemma is that upon replacing the starter after putting i the tranny I broke a sensor that goes into the crankcase, right in front of the starter. Cast aluminum crankcase not an oil PAN. Not original engine. When I crank it oil pressure guage ok, temp gauge ok. This sensor extends into the OIL, sensor end looks similar to something akin to a long O2 sensor, (the part inside the exhaust pipe)outside nut is lg. used crescent to get it out but my guess is around 20-22 mm, 1 wire going to harness. It currently does not leak oil there but I'm sure it does SOMETHING, and since I disconnected the battery I get no OBD1 code. Can anyone tell me what this sensor is ?

 

[Tapemeasureman]

I do have a couple of pix , dont know how to upload here...

 

[Tapemeasureman]

Does it control a "no start" function or simply kick on an idiot light ?
Like I said it does not control pressure gauge, it still works fine.
BB you ARE the greatest !

 

[rickybobby]

that sensor just trips a light

 

[BrooklynBay]

There is a relay under the dashboard that trips the low oil level light if that part doesn't get grounded by the oil in the pan.