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The Black Hole

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by gmanpaint, April 3, 2009.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Been raining for days here, but the Sun decided to come back out, and show it's face this afternoon. It actually warmed up and hit 60* !!

    After tackling yard/house chores, I spent a little time messing with this rig.

    I noticed on the trails last weekend, that my rear rock lights wasn't working. I traced that down and found a bad connector. Got them working again.

    Since I was under the rig, I went ahead and finished up the trailer harness wiring. The reverse light circuit was all that was left. The trailer has some bright reverse LED's, and this rig is getting some 40w reverse flush mount pods. Decided a long time ago, I was going to use the rigs reverse light circuit for a relay trigger, to power the new reverse lights.

    Bought a 40 amp waterproof 4 pin relay, and made a harness for it on the bench.

    40 amp relay harness loose.jpg

    The trigger, light supply, and ground wires are 12 ga. The power supply from battery is 10 ga. I tapped into the 4 ga supply already ran to the rear for the trailer battery charge. Using an Inline split bolt, the 10 ga was clamped tight with wrenches, then sealed with tape, conduit, and more tape.

    Split lug separated.jpg
    Split lug location on the 4 ga hot wire.jpg

    Relay was bolted to the rear cross member, and a SS rubber sleeved clamp was used on the conduit to hold it in place.

    40 amp waterproof relay for trailer reverse lights.jpg

    Trigger wire was easy breezy. After removing the Dr side tail light, the trigger wire was tapped into the BK/Pink Reverse wire, conduit/taped, and done.

    Trailer reverse trigger wire for relay install.jpg

    I hate mud. It gets everywhere, and in places you don't even think of when washing. It got up behind the tail lights even! LOL Surface rust has taken hold of the inside of the frame. If I had a shop with a lift, I would be wire brushing that crap off, and painting it all. The OCD in me knows it's there now, and the OCD... don't like it.

    I will use the same relay to power the rigs new reverse lights when the time comes. I have a new winter project for this thing, and those lights have to wait for it to be finished.

    I am pretty sure the ARB locker install is going to have to wait until next spring, as well as the new ACC fuse box re-wire. Highly doubtful this rig will see anymore action until then as is. Back to lawn ornament status. Guess I can decorate it for Halloween, and the upcoming holidays.

    Oh.. I have a brand new set of 91-01 Daystar Poly body mount bushings if anyone is interested. Willing to let them go for half price + shipping. Send me a PM if so.

    Daystar, Ford Explorer Polyurethane Body Mounts, fits 1991 to 2001 2/4WD, KF04009BK, Made in America

    https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-Expl...63------------&vehicleName=1998+Ford+Explorer
     
    Last edited: October 30, 2019
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  3. 410Fortune

    410Fortune MUD SEASON 2.0 Staff Member Moderator

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    what is "inline split bolt?"
    Go

    I have an idea what you use it for but how and why have I not heard of this neat little gadget before?
    It is almost as if I was under a rock for 10 years, all these fancy doo hickeys online I must know about in case I need them for my fab projects

    Hope the weather holds for you! going to be colder here.......

    I don't like mud either but I moved to a place where I must learn to live with it. It used to be "oh mud! Fun!" then spend 3-4 days with power washer until the next summer when we find another mud hole. Now its Mud on the way to the house mud on the way out....my 2 mile driveway is mud for part of the year....twice a year. Not your average mud either this stuff is fine silt glacier ground sand turned to goo makes a nice "sucking" sound as the tires tredge through it......slurp slurp... We use the polaris machines for much of it, but the fords must also go through also, this has me working on much "mud control" (flaps made from plastic and rubber) to keep it out of the cracks and crevices.

    I wonder if our projects will ever be done? ever?
     
  4. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    The inline split bolt is a copper threaded lug, used to tap one wire to another in the middle of a wire run.

    We use them in ac wiring when adding something to an existing circuit, when a gang box is not possible. They come in a few sizes, and I used the smallest. It works with 4ga to 14 ga.

    To use inline, strip off the wire sheathing just wider than the bolt itself. Slip the bolt over the exposed wire, then add the new wire to the bottom side of the wire, than install the special nut. The nut has a concave bar that seats the added wire to the existing wire flush. It spins inside the nut as you turn it, keeping the 2 wires orientation length wise on each other. Being able to use box wrenches on both the bolt, and nut, you get a super tight clamped connection. These can be had in bigger sizes to accommodate up to 1/0 wire, and everything in between.

    20191026_110836.jpg


    Yeah, mud sucks. Lol
     
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  5. Turdle

    Turdle Moderator Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    I missed this post.

    Need to look at the spark plugs for a read. When you can remove them and lay out in order for a picture.

    edit.
    It really bothers me that the folks who did the swap for you used to be very active members on our forum, until an issue arrises and they go into hiding. Not even bothering to check in to help run the place.....
     
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  6. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Rodger that.

    When I can get the DD straightened out, I will come back around to this rig asap. It's not going anywhere until spring.
     
    Last edited: November 9, 2019
  7. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Started a new project for this rig last night. Details in the near future.

    This was a new 14" cutting wheel before the bumper work, and after last night, it's due for another. Lol

    20191109_090607.jpg
     
  8. 410Fortune

    410Fortune MUD SEASON 2.0 Staff Member Moderator

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    Ah now I understand the split nut, so do you wrap the whole dealio with tape after the splice is made?

    Thank you! that is a nice chop saw, my rigid brand one has seen better days I have beat the living snot out of that thing for 10+ years
     
  9. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Yes sir. The 3rd pic in that post shows it wrapped up.

    I wrapped it in tape, then used split loom over the head inline with the 4 ga, then another short loom over the split post, then more tape over the whole thing to seal it up. A little bulky after all that, but the location under the rig next to the frame rail, made me want to over do it.

    That DeWalt D28715 chop saw is the bigger HP one. It has the quick change nut for blade change, and a bar lever to change cut angle, instead of having to use a wrench. Makes it simple to work with. It's a Hoss!
     
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  10. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Been at this new project since I last posted about it. Had a couple of things slow me down, and hoped to be further along by now.

    Ran out of welding gas on a Saturday morning, and supplier was closed until the following week. Ruined the weekend. Then my shipment of cubitron file belts got lost in shipment, and held me back again. Ran out of a certain material last night. Almost made it with what I had too. That's what I get trying to save, and not getting more than I need. Lol

    Basically just been a few hours here and there in the evenings. It is what it is. Main part is about 90% done. The little things on this will eat the clock up. Hoping another week is all it takes.

    Pics coming as soon as I have enough of it built, to make it worthy of sharing. Just seeing if you all are still paying attention or not. o_O
     
  11. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    I'm watching, and recovering from my project yesterday. I rebuilt the front suspension of my newest 98, I found four bad BJ's, so new CA's and camber bolts etc, new rotors, shocks, hubs, two TRE's, and left the axles and pads in place.

    The front diff took close to a quart, maybe 2/3 of a bottle, I didn't expect it to need that much(no notable leaks at the three seals). I'm getting an alignment at 10AM, and hopefully I can get to the 4R70W VB work next. Night,
     
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  12. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    That's a lot of work for one day. Nice job!

    My other projects are waiting on this one to be finished. This one was born because of another, and.... well, all will be explained soon. Lol
     
  13. WormsExplorer

    WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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    Paying attention to what?!?!?! LOL :snicker:

    Just kidding. I like reading your Posts. Get great Ideas for my Ex.
     
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  14. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Turned the rig around the other day, and found this today. It normally sits with the pass side tires off the drive, so I never seen it before.

    Pass front tire:

    oil leak onto drive.jpg

    Yep, that's an oil leak. Traced it up the LCA, onto the Rack ram (it was dripping engine oil), and above it to the source.

    302 oil leak at pan.jpg

    That's the front of the oil pan. The block is a little wet directly above the pan only. This tells me it's leaking at the gasket.

    Upon further inspection following the pan back a few inches, I find the CAD housing making contact with the pan. The engine mounts are flexing and the pan is hitting the CAD. This might have broke the seal of the gasket. :angryfire: Worse yet, it might have cracked the pan itself.

    cad to oil pan contact.jpg

    Looks like I have another repair to do. It's going to have to wait until spring. Not going to mess with it over the winter, in a driveway. :(
     
  15. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Hmm, I thought how could a new gasket leak, then you show how close the diff/CAD is to the pan. I hope it's the steel pan, or maybe later you can swap a steel one into it. The AL pan will be thicker in that tight area, so a steel one might have more clearance there.
     
  16. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Its the steel pan. It wasn't cleared enough when installed.
     
  17. QuietStorm17

    QuietStorm17 Elite Explorer

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    Ouch! Sorry to see that and I would wait till spring also. Busting a frozen knuckle or two is no fun.
     
  18. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Yep, no fun at all.

    Engine has to be lifted to fix it. That entails a lot of work, and not going to make it even harder, by fighting the elements.

    I'm beside myself over this screw up. It has put me in a not so good of a mental state.
     
  19. QuietStorm17

    QuietStorm17 Elite Explorer

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    We all screw up at times and it’s even worse when we should know better. I’m speaking from experience! Look at it as a learning experience, a pia learning experience. For now get something good to eat and drink that will change your mental state.
     
  20. 410Fortune

    410Fortune MUD SEASON 2.0 Staff Member Moderator

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    drop the diff
    shave those aluminum ears off the CAD, it looks as if they are not needed
    Clearance steel pan slightly with BFH
    I'm hoping its not cracked
    It may be possible to lower the diff slightly?
    Drop bracket lift would help here or maybe lift the engine 1/2"
    FUN!!! If it wasn't for this new leak what would you do to occupy all of your time??? My truck projects just love to keep me up at night!
     
  21. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Well, I refuse to install a drop bracket lift. I can't stand them. Personal choice.

    Those ears are for the fork slider inside the housing. I'm not so sure I want to mess with those. Maybe a little wouldn't hurt?

    Only thing I can remotely think of to lower the dif is a couple of washers. Not sure that would work because of the LCA's below the CV's.

    I can remove the CAD housing to get room to massage the pan more, but they way they did it, I don't know if it would survive any more beating. They beat on it wrong. Instead of pushing in the corner of the pan to clear the CAD, they hit it on the side. It was the first time they had to do this, as they asked me how to do it. I found pictures here from a member that did it successfully, and sent them to them for reference. That was a waste of time, as they didn't follow suit. They did it with the pan loose, before engine install. They didn't bother to work on it anymore after engine drop. Told me it was close, but cleared just fine. I know better now. Explains why this thing goes through oil so fast.

    The other thing that made me miss this leak was that same side CV axle boot blew, and slung juice all over. It hid the oil leak on me.

    Here is a picture of how they hammered the pan from the side, instead of a lower angle at the very corner.

    Pardon all the mud. I haven't cleaned the underside yet after it's last outing.

    Oil pan dent.jpg
     

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