How to: - The Comprehensive Brown Wire Mod Thread | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: The Comprehensive Brown Wire Mod Thread

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
The Aussie Locker, like other non-selectable lockers, is going to make it hard for you to drive on wet roads (and even snow). So if you do put on an Aussie Locker, go slower .. so if you think you can do 50 mph, drop it down to maybe 40 mph TOPS and be aware that every turn needs to be done at much slower speeds because the locker will try to keep both front wheels spinning at the same RPM -- so at least one wheel, or both, will be sliding during every turn you make in the rain and snow.
 



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so if with the bwm it will do this
 






No. Even without the BWM, having the Aussie Locker will make it hard to handle the rain and snow.

I would say that the Aussie locker is probably 100% independent of BWM. All the locker knows is to not let a wheel slip -- doesn't matter if there's torque being applied to the drive shaft or not.
 






the bwm wil disengage the front right so itl be fine with the switch off?
 






Yes it will disengage the "front" driveshaft .. but the front wheels are still connected to each other via the differential carrier. The BWM controls the "front" drive shaft, not the "front" axle shafts and/or hubs.

Here, I'll sum it up for you:
If you want to go off-roading, put a locker in the rear axle, leave the front axle alone, and you'll be good to go. If you have the LimitedSlip in the back, change it out for a better locker (like the Aussie Locker). Don't do the BWM because that doesn't give you any advantage off-road. Plus its so much easier to install an Aussie Locker in the rear axle.
 






thanks
 






So even if you have your BWM switch in the Off position and then put the in-dash switch in 4HI, the vehicle will only be 2HI. On the other hand, if you have the BWM switch in the Off position, and then you put the in-dash switch to 4LO, then you will have 4LO. If you have the switch in the On position, then the vehicle will behave as if you've never done the BWM.

Let me revise IZ's statement here a little bit. I think he meant to say that with the BWM switch in the off position and the dash switch in 4HI the vehicle will only be in 2HI. And with the BWM switch in the off position and the dash switch in 4LO then you will be in 2LO.
 






Let me summarize the what-iffs:

If you install a simple on-off switch per the instructions in this thread on a 97-01 Explorer, you have two positions for the BWM switch (ON and OFF) and three positions for the factory switch.

This will give you the following functions using the stock 4wd switch:

BWM Switch ON (or closed):
4auto/4high/4low Just like the stock wiring.

BWM Switch OFF (Open):
2wd/2wd/2low.

I won't get into the other permutations used with the 95/96 and/or a 3-way switch.
 






I won't get into the other permutations used with the 95/96 and/or a 3-way switch.

If you have a 3-way then it is on 2hi 4auot 4lo off 2hi 2hi 2 lo on the other way 2hi 4hi 4lo. But if you just install a on-off switch and run the brown wire to that switch and have 12v on the other side of the switch then it is 2hi 4auto 4lo in the off position and then 2hi 4hi and 4lo in the on.
 






subscribing...
 






If you have a 3-way then it is on 2hi 4auot 4lo off 2hi 2hi 2 lo on the other way 2hi 4hi 4lo. But if you just install a on-off switch and run the brown wire to that switch and have 12v on the other side of the switch then it is 2hi 4auto 4lo in the off position and then 2hi 4hi and 4lo in the on.

Ok, I don't need 2lo, I just want 4hi, and so far, through this entire thread, you have made the most sense.(other than the actual write-up)

I have a 96 and want 4hi, which according to you means that I only need a 2 position on/off switch. In the off position I will have normal function of my oem switch. In the on position I will have 4hi instead of 4auto. If that is the case then why not just leave the aux. switch in the on position and only use the oem switch to toggle 2hi, 4hi, 4lo? (that's all I need personally).

Next question, in the 2 position on/off switch (correct me if I am wrong) I attatch both wires from the brown wire to one end of the switch, and I attach a single wire power source to the other end. Now, for the switch, lets say that the up position is on and down is off. Do I attatch the brown wires to the top or bottom? and then naturally do I attatch the single wire power source to the top or bottom? (obviously opposite the brown wires).

Thanks guys, this thread has been extremely helpful.
Big Red
 






Let me summarize the what-iffs:

If you install a simple on-off switch per the instructions in this thread on a 97-01 Explorer, you have two positions for the BWM switch (ON and OFF) and three positions for the factory switch.

This will give you the following functions using the stock 4wd switch:

BWM Switch ON (or closed):
4auto/4high/4low Just like the stock wiring.

BWM Switch OFF (Open):
2wd/2wd/2low.

I won't get into the other permutations used with the 95/96 and/or a 3-way switch.

Please explain what you have to do with a simple on-off switch in a 95/96 to get the stock functions and to gain 4wd high when bwm is functioning properly.

Thanks
 






Ok, I don't need 2lo, I just want 4hi, and so far, through this entire thread, you have made the most sense.(other than the actual write-up)
Big Red -- you have 4HI, I think its labeled on the dash as "4wd". You don't need to do the BWM in order to get 4HI.

The BWM only serves those who want 2LO -- and you stated that you don't want 2LO.
 






Big Red -- you have 4HI, I think its labeled on the dash as "4wd". You don't need to do the BWM in order to get 4HI.

The BWM only serves those who want 2LO -- and you stated that you don't want 2LO.

The '95 and '95s have 2hi, 4auto and 4lo. I think he wants a full 4hi which I thought it told you how to do somewhere in this thread?
 






IZwack, you are correct, I do not want 2lo. But, my dash know is labeled, as briwayjones said, 2wd, 4auto, 4lo. I just want to have true, or complete 4hi. And this thread covers that for the 95's and 96's.

As I understood it, 97and up Ex's do the mod for 2lo. And 95/96's do the mod for 4hi.

My question from above remains. Does anyone know how EXACTLY to wire up a 2 position on/off switch. The one I have has a center terminal and one to the side. And if someone knows how it will function then in the on and off positions please post that.

Thanks for your help guys,
Big Red
 






Sorry for the misunderstanding!
 






Not at all, thanks for the help I really appreciate it. Maybe when I figure it out I'll let you know and we'll both end up a gaining a bit of knowledge.

thanks again
 






I have a 96 and want 4hi, which according to you means that I only need a 2 position on/off switch. In the off position I will have normal function of my oem switch. In the on position I will have 4hi instead of 4auto. If that is the case then why not just leave the aux. switch in the on position and only use the oem switch to toggle 2hi, 4hi, 4lo? (that's all I need personally).

Next question, in the 2 position on/off switch (correct me if I am wrong) I attatch both wires from the brown wire to one end of the switch, and I attach a single wire power source to the other end. Now, for the switch, lets say that the up position is on and down is off. Do I attatch the brown wires to the top or bottom? and then naturally do I attatch the single wire power source to the top or bottom? (obviously opposite the brown wires).

Thanks guys, this thread has been extremely helpful.
Big Red

Any body?
 






Please re-read the original post. The instructions for doing what you ask are in the last 1/4 of my original write-up.

-Joe
 



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I don't know if this has been covrered, but a SPDT switch would function the same as above, just connect the 12v source wire below the TCC wire. Like this:

This would work for both the On-Off-On switch, and the On-On switch. How it works:
brownwire95-96.jpg

Switch up (GEM and TCCC pins connected): functions as normal. 2WD, 4WD Auto, and 4WD Low.
Switch Center (Off position, only on On-Off-On switch): TCCC remains disengaged. 2WD is still 2WD, 4WD Auto is 2WD, and 4 Low is 2 Low.
Switch Down (TCCC con nected to switched 12v source): TCCC remains permanently engaged. 2WD is 4WD, 4WD Auto is 4WD, and 4 Low is 4 Low.

I also tried to make an idiot-proof diagram for the 97-01s (I used a standard pintout for a lgihted switch that can be purchased at Autozone for pennies):
brownwire97-01.jpg

This should allow the GEM to flash the light (through ground), and the switch to Interrupt the signal to the TCCC in the Off position.

Hope this helps!

Can you please explain exactly which side of the brown wire, after its been cut, runs to the TCCC. I followed the y up from the bottom and cut it after the split to the left. Now would the wire that continues left be the TCCC wire or the one that has the rest of the y or split in it (goes right and down). I wired my SPDT on-off-on switch up today but afterwards I tried it out and mine is not acting like you said it would at all. I had 4HI in both on positions. It seems that I don't have 4auto anymore. Did I wire it up wrong? And how do I know where 2lo is? I also had 2wd in both on positions.

Thanks guys,
Big Red
 






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