Tips for Replacing the Fuel Pump (drop the tank style)

[Stoberto]

Hey, I am new to the forum - I recently purchased a 2008 Explorer Limited with a fuel sending unit issue. I have learned a great deal from the forum, so I wanted to share a couple things I figured out while replacing the fuel pump this weekend.

1. You probably could do it without disconnecting the driveshaft (mine is a 2WD). I tested to see if I could get a socket on a swivel on the back tank strap with it in place - and you can - BUT I think you would struggle to get the strap back on and also with some of the maneuvering you have to do without the shaft loose. I moved the shaft around quite a bit to reach things. Plus, it's so easy to disconnect I would just do it.

2. You definitely do not need to disconnect the crossmember in the front and drop it like the repair manual says. I was not thrilled with the idea - anytime extremely large bolts with tons of torque and possible rust are involved I start to get a little uneasy (I have gotten stuck in some bad repair situations in my garage because of stuck bolts). I had no trouble partially lowering the tank, disconnecting lines, and then sliding it towards the back without doing anything to the crossmember - my tank was down to probably about 4 gallons when I started so it wasn't very heavy.

3. When you put the tank back in place, MAKE SURE you don't pinch the vent/breather line. I thought my lines were fine, truck ran great, stopped at the gas station and could not fill the tank without it overflowing every 1/2 gallon. That lead to me having to partially drop the tank again and re route the breather hose. It is a really tight fit, so if I were you before I snug everything up and reconnect the driveshaft I would pull the hose off of the filler neck in the wheel well and make sure you can suck air through it. Also if you can - note the routing before you yank it off, I don't know even now if I have it routed the same - but at least it isn't pinched. I would have saved myself a ton a trouble if I would've done those things.

Overall this job is not too bad if you can have some tools and experience. I just disconnect the driveshaft, loosened the straps, disconnected what I could, then supported the tank with a floor jack and wood and lowered it while disconnecting anything else I missed. I have seen how some cut a hole in the floor instead of lowering the tank - but if you are like me and don't like that idea, don't be afraid to drop the tank. It took me only 3 hours (if you don't count the time I had to go back in to un-pinch my vent line) and that was just me working by myself. I did a rear axle seal over the weekend as well and for me it was a nightmare compared to the fuel tank.

Hope this is helpful to someone in the same situation I was in! Thanks for all the helpful info on the forum.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks for the hints. That's in my plans for the spring so I'll probably do it myself rather than pay the shop. What pump did you use ?

 

[Stoberto]

I bought the Delphi. I couldn't stomach the price of the Motorcraft, and it seems like most have a positive experience with the Delphi. Also it comes with a new gasket - I wasted 9 bucks on one of those because I didn't realize that.

 

[Devo55]

I recently bought a Delphi fuel pump (10142) for my 1993 Explorer 4.0L (365,000 miles). I figured my old pump could go out at any moment so change it while it's still works. I dropped the tank which was tough and installed the new pump. My only concern now is that the new pump doesn't prime when I turn the key to the ON position. It starts the truck and the drives just fine but no prime. My old pump primed every time. I swapped out the fuel pump relay. That did nothing. I'm so used to hearing my old pump prime before I start the truck and this silence is a bit unnerving. I don't know if this pump is faulty or what. I emailed Delphi two times and so far no response. Help!!

 

[Bazz270]

Delphi parts easily could be chinese junk...trust only motorcraft parts for good quality control.

 

[donalds]

I like Bosch

 

[springer]

Alternate method - My fuel pump failed immediately after a fill-up (in the driveway, thankfully) and I found a write-up titled redneck fuel pump replacement, I think, and he had a pretty good diagram of the floor which I followed to cut a hole for access in the passenger floorboard. I removed the passenger seat and rear seat, so that I could avoid cutting the carpet as originally outlined. I also used some scrap steel to create a cover/door that is secured with 1/4 inch SS sheetmetal screws - there is plenty of room over the tank to do that.
Overall, I think I have way more than 3 hours in it, but I did not have to wrestle the tank full of fuel.

 

[xr7g428]

I seem to be jinxed when it comes to Fuel pumps on my '06 4.6 4wd. The original fuel pump died on the day I bought my Explorer, about 200 miles from home. I ended up renting a Uhaul truck and trailer to get it home. I pulled the tank and the OEM pump had a bad connection on the positive wire where it plugs into the pump. It had left burn marks on the plastic insulator that holds the two fast on spade connectors. I unpinned the connector and then soldered the female connector to the male connector. It was difficult to access the area with my soldering iron, regretably, I didn't do great work on the negative wire side, more on that later.


I bought a TYC replacement from Rock Auto. This was a disaster. TYC had decided to remove the built in pressure regulator. This caused the pump to over pressure the system (100psi!) horribly and the truck would barely run. Raw gas was pouring out of the exhaust. I did not realize it at the time but this also damaged the intake mounted pressure sending unit. I would discover that about 20 miles off road in the middle of the desert. I was able to limp it home before it completely died.

Of course TYC denied the problem and I had to go to war with Rock Auto. In the mean time I fixed the bad electrical connection and reinstalled the OEM pump. It worked great. When Rock Auto finally decided that the pump was bad I ordered the Premium Delphi offering. When the Delphi arrived I put it on the shelf. Fast forward from June of 2019.

So my wife was heading out in the Explorer and once again the fuel pump failed. I was able to tow it home with a tow strap, but I had to do the replacement on the very hot asphalt drive in 110 degree AZ heat. I pulled the tank and installed the new Delphi pump. The Explorer was difficult to start. I connected the Forscan scanner and discovered that it would not hold pressure when the engine was shut off. The internal check valve in the pump was bad. I could verify this by blowing back through the fuel line. I also noticed I could hear fuel returning to the tank after I shut the engine off if the tank was very low.

When I pulled the OEM pump out to put the Delphi in I immediately found the problem: the negative connection had come loose. My poor quality solder job had not bonded the female side of the connector to the male side. I live about 1/2 mile from the paved road and the access is extremely rough and rocky so I believe the constant bouncing of the pump on the bottom of the plastic tank puts the connections under stress. I reconnected the negative wire, soldered it effectively this time, and tested the pump. It works fine.

At least with the Delphi we were able to drive the Explorer, even if it took several tries to get it to start. I ended up ordering the genuine Ford replacement. Thinking that at 150K miles replacing teh fuel pump is a good idea regardless I installed it and so far it is working perfectly.

 

[xr7g428]

Since I have done this so many times I have a few hints.

Drain as much gas as possible. Disconnect the fuel filler hose. Put a clean five gallon bucket under the outlet of the tank. There is a flapper vavle in the back of the tank that will keep the fuel in the tank. It is hinged at the bottom. Insert a screw driver along the top side of the filler neck and gently push the flapper in, and gas will start coming out. You can modulate the screw driver to control how fast it is coming out. Pull out the screw driver and it will stop. Once you get down to a couple of gallons the tank is pretty manageable.

Remove the metal shield (13mm 3 bolts), and then the plastic cover (10mm two bolts) to access the fuel filter, Disconnect the fuel filter at the frame side and let it come out with the tank. You have one more line to disconnect up front.

Drop the drive shift. You need a 12 point socket and an extension. Put it in nuetral and use a big long screwdriver to keep the shaft from turning. A little Kroil makes this easier.

Disconnect the large vent line at the rear where it connects to the valve. You have one more line to disconnect in the back.

Put a transmission jack or a floor jack with a plywood platform under the middle of the tank to support it. Then remove the front and rear straps. once you take the bolts out you will be able to move the straps sideways and the key that fits in the frame will let the strap come free.

Lower the tank several inches. It will mostly swing down at the back. This will give you access to the two lines you need to disconnect. Use long handle heater hose pliers to push the button on the top of the connectors down. The reach above the tank and disconnect the electrical connector. There is a tab that you will push in on one side to release it. The tank is now free.

You may need to jack the tank back towards level to get it to move to the rear. Pull the tank, with the jack rolling with it until the front of the tank is celar of the cross member. Then drop the jack and the tank can slideout the back of the vehicle. I always hose the thing off as it will be covered with dust that you don't want in the tank. Swap out the pump and assembly is the reverse of the above procedure. I have it down to less than two hours and I am an old fart.

 

[Devo55]

Ok after a little research I found out that my Delphi fuel pump is priming with the key on. It's just very quiet. I had to put my ear to the quarter panel and I could hear it spinning for about 2 seconds but it is very very quiet. My original pump would hum loudly as it primed. That's what I was expecting from the new pump. I didn't test it first out of the tank ( I should have ). Anyway I wrote Delphi about my concerns and they NEVER responded.