To do a rear differential oil service or not?

[3xowner]

I have a 2000 explorer RWD with the 4.10 limited slip.

My rear differential has near been service yet, 154k miles.
I've seen ideas that it should be done at 150 and then every 30-60 afterwards...

In my owners manual i read it has 75w140 synthetic gear oil that they say never needs serviced in its lifetime except if the axle gets submerged in water. Well its never been submerged ever. They even say, don't check it ever unless a leak is present, which there are no leaks.

the job seems that it will cost maybe 90 bucks as it takes nearly 3 qts of syn gear oil which is about $25/qt, RTV for gasket, and the 4 oz of enhancement additive.

thoughts?

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Do it to it.

When you see the mushroom of metal shards on the fill plug magnet you'll see why it's always a good idea.

Lifetime=Lifetime of Warranty

Not a Human Lifetime

Difference.

 

[3xowner]

great point ... Lifetime=Lifetime of Warranty

is it a good idea to attempt to change the axle seals now or not until they wear out and actually leak?

 

[shucker1]

Like @Centaurus5.0 said.

Do it not before it has a major failure. I would do both axle seals and Limited Slip clutch packs with that many miles.

Plenty of write ups on this site as to how easy it is.

 

[imp]

Like @shucker1

Do it not before it has a major failure. I would do both axle seals and Limited Slip clutch packs with that many miles.

Plenty of write ups on this site as to [B]how easy it is[/B].

@shucker1
Well, as the ladies taking my wife's Microwave Cooking classes always said, "Sure, it's easy for you to do (i.e., actually preparing foods by microwaving)". Wife always answered, "All I ever did was read the instruction book!"

Ahhh, microwaved Turkey! Juiciest, tastiest white breast meat you ever had; beats oven-roasting hands-down! (Yeah, the skin DOES get brown!). imp

 

[koda2000]

I say do it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, do it. The $25 per quart is a rip off though. I use the best which is Amsoil, and their Severe Gear is $11-$13 a quart for the three viscosity choices.

The axle seals are a weaker link due to the mileage, those will begin to leak before the fluid needs to be changed again. I went through my 98 last year when I got it, at 158k miles. I did the axle bearings and seals, plus the brake pads, and parking brake linings/hardware. The gear oil is very important also, I go at related parts in the rear and do the oil at the end. I have a usable parking brake now, for the first time. I adjusted that thing carefully and slowly, finally getting it tight enough to hold. That's hard to do with used pads and hardware etc.

The seals run about $3 each, the bearings under $15 I think they were. To rebuild the LS clutches will run around $70 for the kit, from Summit. I didn't do that, I've got a True Trac to put in this year.

 

[Mounty99]

Go for it!!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/change-differential-fluid.408192/

 

[shucker1]

@3xowner

Looks like the votes are in....

We are here to help if needed!

 

[chefduane]

My '98 SOHC went 213k miles for me and is still on the road. I know the current owner and she is quite happy with it. It went that far by doing maintenance at regular intervals and doing things like diff lube and axle seals even if Ford (or anyone) said "it doesn't need it." Maintenance means the process of maintaining and/or preserving something in an operational condition. Not just fixing things when they break. +1 for do it.

 

[shucker1]

@chefduane

Glad to see your still around after selling you Ex.

You need to get another one so we can hear from you more often...

 

[BKennedy]

The manufacture says it doesn't need changing because it will be well out of warranty when it blows. I change the gear oil every 50,000 miles in my Silverado and every few years in the Explorer, but its an off-road vehicle. It gets maybe 4,000 miles between changes, or after a deep water crossing, but that's just me doing everything I can to not be the one on the trail everyone else is helping with a busted vehicle.

Had a Volvo with a transmission that "never needed a fluid change". Had a 100,000 mile warranty. At 107,000 miles a main bearing froze and spun the carrier in the housing. I couldn't even get a core charge for it. The transmission shop owner thought it was funny that I believed the manufacture. He said to only change the fluids on vehicles that you plan on keeping.

You can get Valvoline synthetic gear oil for half of what you were quoted. I have used it for many years with no issues. Don't need the additive if you use synthetic. Its a easy job, just messy.

 

[3xowner]

best to use what? RTV or after market gasket for the housing seal?

I tend to use Motorcraft fluid vs others... for example the brake fluid has a +20'F boiling point than most of the others.... just gotta search on who has a more reasonable price.

 

[BKennedy]

I have become a fan of lubelocker reusable gaskets
http://www.lubelocker.com/

If you decide to get one, go through davesoffroadsupply.com

 

[chefduane]

@chefduane

Glad to see your still around after selling you Ex.

You need to get another one so we can hear from you more often...

Hey, thanks for the kind words! I'm still here every once in a while. Had the '98 for 16 years.. kinda' hard to get it out of your system.
I'm now in a Ford Edge Limited AWD and am participating in the EdgeForum. I got so many great tips and info from this group, one of the first things I did when looking for an Edge was join the Edge group. Thanks again!

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Ford says the same thing about the 4r75e's.

"A sealed case and lifetime transmission fluid make the transmission maintenance free, while adaptive pressure control maintains consistent shift feel over time."

What they are really saying is it will last 6 years or 150,000 miles (longest available warranty) without service (without cost to us, FoMoCo) and with modern electronics we can make a worn out transmission feel great until it blows. When it burns up after that, we just sell them a whole new transmission.

Planned Obsolescence.

If you changed the fluid in a new 4r every 20-40,000 miles and installed a big cooler, you can get way over 300,000 miles out of them. But when things last, people don't buy new. And when they don't buy, people don't work, then people don't make money etc, etc...

But then then again, is it cheaper to install a new transmission every 10 years than it is to maintain it. I paid $400 for a NOS 4r70w. 16 quarts of synthetic ATF can get expensive if your changing it every 1-2 years.

I guess it is nice for the new vehicle owners (consumers). It's one less thing they have to remember to maintain. Engine oil alone is too much for most drivers.

For me, buying a older proven vehicles for under $3000 with around 100,000 miles and then putting the best lube in it makes sense. As long as the engine, trans and rear (highest cost repair items) can go another 100-200,000 miles everything else is nickel and dimes more or less. And living in the rust belt, a daily driver isn't going to last but 15-20 years before rotting out anyway.

Minimax-ing long term overall investment is the name of the game.

 

[imp]

Hey, thanks for the kind words! I'm still here every once in a while. Had the '98 for 16 years.. kinda' hard to get it out of your system.
I'm now in a Ford Edge Limited AWD and am participating in the EdgeForum. I got so many great tips and info from this group, one of the first things I did when looking for an Edge was join the Edge group. Thanks again!

@chefduane
The Edge seems a great choice of mid-range size vehicle. My Marine Corps nephew who helped us move from MO to AZ, had a new Edge rented to take us back to Ft. Leonard Wood, MO. It ran great! Lots of power, I woke up a couple of times to catch him doing 100 on I-40!. He assured me his U.S. Marines ID would let him off........imp

 

[1998Exp]

Our 8.8" Ford differentials are well known for developing a whine under load at somewhere between 100K and 150K - most likely due to wear of the ring/pinion gears or the pinion bearings. Mine developed that whine at the latter number, at which point I changed the oil to good quality synthetic (noticing some silver-colored metal flakes in the old oil). Wondering whether changing it earlier would have made any difference. Put 10K on it since, and things are not getting any worse, but I will, at some point take it apart and replace what needs to be replaced.

 

[3xowner]

interesting you mention that 1998Exp... I have noticed a new very faint sound while under load... its a very low constant sound, more a shallow whine, that is only present under accel / load. It seems to only have started, or became noticeable, in maybe the last 1-2k miles.... it sounded more from the right middle...

I am must a bit late in getting to the drive line maintenance... I guess I have been spoiled really by the quality / durability of this year / model

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I have the same high pitched whine under load. Also a tiny bit of a leak at the pinion seal. I put in Amsoil 80w-90 at around 60,000 miles. Now has 80,000. It did not have that sound or leak when I got the rig. I've towed a handful of vehicles since then and my rig chirps second gear under WOT so it shift pretty hard for an 4,400lbs SUV.

I've heard the idea that preload loosens up over time and needs to be re-tightened every so often as the miles rack up (bearing wear=loose tolerances). It is further exacerbated when towing or is getting shocked repeatedly like with a hard shifting VB.

Simple as tightening the pinion nut a bit more?

Your thoughts?