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To you SAS guys!!

Discussion in 'Shocks, Suspensions, Lift Kits' started by Blaine122300, October 8, 2002.

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    1. Blaine122300

      Blaine122300 Elite Non explorer owner

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      I can get my hands on a 78 bronco for pretty cheap. how hard is it to rip the 44 off of it and put it on my explorer for as cheap as possible? I know its a full size axle, but isn't rick running a full size on his? I would probably have to take the rear axle off also so it would match the front. I think I would rather have a 9" any way. I could always sell the 8.8 to a jeep guy too.

      But back to the big picture. Will this be a good axle to use, or should I stick to something out of an early bronco? Or should I fix up this bronco and sell the explorer? questions questions.

      Can I use most all of the suspension components off of the bronco and fab it onto the explorer?

      Heck, I may as well just keep it the way it is and not do a darn thing. It just makes my head spin. I really want a 44 though.

      Somone please set me straight. should I just keep it the way it is with the 6" skyjacker and 33's or go for the gusto (and the empty bank account) and put a 44 on.
      I can't stop thinking of all the options. 38" tires just seem too sweet an option on an X. Man am I cornfused on what I should do!!

      please help

      Andy
       
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    3. CoryL

      CoryL Well-Known Member

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      78 and 79 F150 and Bronco D44s are bad years to get the axles out of. The "ears" that hold the c-bushings where the radius arms bolt up are cast into the axle and are not removable. This means when you go to bolt the radius arms up to the frame they will look like \ / from the top of the vehicle, wider on the axle than the frame.

      While some angle is ok, it is almost to the point where you are putting stress on the radius arm bushing sideways. I've seen it in a 1994 Mazda B-Series pickup (rebadged Ranger).

      Plus that angle also means your coils with either have one HELL of a bow to them or you will need to make a new coil bucket that comes out more to keep the coil straighter.

      Some people don't want full width axles, some do. It depends on what you intend to do with the vehicle. If tighter trails are your thing, I'd go as narrow as possible, which may mean keeping the TTB.

      If you want a solid axle, but not full width, Early Bronco would be the way to go. Infact, 76-77 Early Bronco D44s are ideal as they pretty much bolt in and everything pretty much lines up, plus they come with disc brakes, unlike any other Early Bronco axle.

      Either way, I would also suggest you get a set of WildHorses RockCrawler (RC) coils. TTB coils SUCK and do not work well with SASs. a 3.5" RC coil will give you about 6" of lift and flex well.

      If you want 38s on your Explorer you will need to do more than simply swap in a D44. In stock form a D44 won't handle 38s unless you are a pavement pounder. To run 38s with a D44 you would need to upgrade to Warn alloy axleshafts and CTM u-joints or carry A LOT of spare shafts and joints and get good at chaging them out. Warns and CTMs aren't cheap. The CTMs go for $150 each (guaranteed for life I believe) and the Warns go for ~$1200 for a set (also guaranteed for life).

      I'd give a stock 78-79 Bronco D44 a 36" tire max.

      So consider that too.
       
    4. Blaine122300

      Blaine122300 Elite Non explorer owner

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      Good info. Thank you

      Andy

      I think I will keep my TTB for now.
       
    5. Alec

      Alec Elite Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      I deleted the duplicate and put the good thread in the suspension forum. Please do not double post.
       
    6. tiessen

      tiessen Active Member

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      I hate to argue with you Cory, but...

      I have a 79 Bronco 44 in my X. I chopped it at the diff on the longside 6" and it fits perfect. Do some searching on this site and you'll find lot's of info. The 78-79 44 is good becuase it's HP, with discs and 297X joints. I'm running mine with 37's and beat it hard. Balljoints seem to be the weakest link...


      Cheers
      Dale
       
    7. CoryL

      CoryL Well-Known Member

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      Yeah, but you shortened the axle.

      If you left it full width you never would have gotten the coils to line up properly. To the average guy, shortening an axle himself isn't an option.

      The 297x u-joint is the same one that is in the D35 TTB.

      37s....MTRs?
       
    8. Blaine122300

      Blaine122300 Elite Non explorer owner

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      How much does it cost to have someone cut down the axle and re-spline the axle shaft? I know that they make axle shafts for the 8.8 with 5 on 5.5 to match the front 44 for about 2-250 each.
      I like the high pinion deal though.

      Can I use the brackets/track bar from a 78 bronco and put em on my x?

      thanks
       
    9. Blaine122300

      Blaine122300 Elite Non explorer owner

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      do they make stronger joints that fit in the 78-79 44's?
       
    10. CoryL

      CoryL Well-Known Member

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      As for the cutting and welding of the axlehousing and cutting and resplining of the axleshaft, call a local 4wd shop or a local race car shop and see if they can or know anyone that can.

      As for the joints....

      Re-read my first reply.

      Just remember, if you go with those joints you MUST upgrade your axleshafts. If you cut down the axle you can have the axleshafts made to fit your application.

      The tracbar brack may need to be customized slightly to get it to fit properly.
       
    11. Blaine122300

      Blaine122300 Elite Non explorer owner

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      If you were to guess, how much do you think it would cost if I brought in my x and the D44 to a 4wd shop and had them do the whole thing? I dont want to deal with the mess right now. Its already snowing and cold here.
       
    12. CoryL

      CoryL Well-Known Member

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      Depends on the shop and how much work is involved. If they don't know what they are doing, it'll cost more in labor.

      Since it is cold outside and they know you want it done, they may charge more.

      Only way to find out is to call and ask.
       
    13. tiessen

      tiessen Active Member

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      Any machine shop can shorten the housing, pull the tube from pumpkin, cut 6" and shorten.

      Moser will do the axleshaft for under $100.

      I was in the same boat as you for install, no place and no time. I paid $1200 Can for the re and re, plus shortening the axle, plus $250 for new dutchman rear shaft s 5 on 5.5", $250can for James Duff EB coils, plus new gearing, etc. Came out to about $5K all said and done.

      Cheers
      Dale
       

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