Completed Project Top Mount TURBO Explorer V8

[RegionThr33]

I read that I can use a switch to control lockup (on/off). Know anything about it?

 

[Dono]

I read that I can use a switch to control lockup (on/off). Know anything about it?

I read you couldn't. lol
Apparently its pulse width modulated. sending 5, or 12v to cause lockup is not pulse width modulation and might hurt the trans.
A switch to prevent lockup, as in your case, would probably work. I'm not sure if the pcm would throw a trans code or not though.

 

[gmanpaint]

I'd you do figure out the on off switch, I'm extremely interested in that. Mine is stuck on, and can't shut it off, and don't know why.


On another note, what brand is your steering shaft u joint coupler? Do you happen to remember the spline count, and dd size?

 

[RegionThr33]

...what brand is your steering shaft u joint coupler? Do you happen to remember the spline count, and dd size?

I'm wanting to say it's a Sweet mfg. It's a double u-joint. 3/4" double D to 3/4 double D.
The splines are on the rack and pinion side. I just used the factory inner shaft for that.

 

[RegionThr33]

I'll try to explain.
This picture is the factory explorer shaft. On the left is the splined joint that goes to the rack. The right side slips over the steering shaft that comes out of the firewall. Those two pieces fit one inside the other. The lower section (splined side) slips inside the upper section(firewall side). I removed the upper section(had to cut it off) and my new 3/4" double D shaft slid inside of the lower section. So, the upper section is replaced by the new 3/4" shaft with the double ujoint on the firewall end. The shaft coming through the firewall is also a 3/4" double d. It fits into the double ujoint.

 

[RegionThr33]

Here's the shaft and double ujoint I put together. Like I said. It fits inside of the lower, splined side of the factory shaft.

 

[RegionThr33]

Pic

 

[gmanpaint]

So the slips are reversed now with the new upper. Gotcha.

I just need the single joint couplers, and both lower and upper shafts for a 1st gen. 2nd gens are the same on the column, so the 3/4 DD is what I'm after.

Your mods will help other 2nd gen owners looking to clear headers and for body lifted applications tho.

Thanks for the info!

 

[CDW6212R]

If you are building a 4R70W for performance, budget a few aftermarket items besides the TC.
I suggest this forward drum;.NEW 76655-01K Ford AODE 4R70W/4R70E/4R75W/4R75E Forward Clutch Drum HI CAP | eBay
this Sonnax Boost valve(better than the simple valve in other kits etc);Sonnax 4R70WLB1 Boost Valve & Sleeve (Progressive Line Pressure Increase) | eBay,
a stronger stub shaft, and the typical Sonnax upgrade items(not expensive), plus a deep pan. Those and a decent shift kit like the Jerry's Mod, should have it survive most hp you will make.

 

[RegionThr33]

I'm basically building this https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...-carbon-fiber-band-billet-shaft-10-converter/

But with raybestos gpz frictions and the J-Mod instead of the shift kit

 

[RegionThr33]

Anyone have a link for a quality balancer that will work for the explorer? I'm slowly being talked into upping the whp. I was told that a quality balancer and of course a great tune is key.

 

[Dono]

DAYCO PB1463ST Street Performance Balancer
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,explorer,5.0l+v8,1362462,engine,harmonic+balancer,5512

Just make sure the ring is there for the crank position sensor and is 52oz imbalance (I can't find where this is specifically stated). It looks like it might be a win.

Your not tormenting your balancer with a Supercharger belt, or are you pulling high rpm's. I'd think factory balancer would be just fine until you change the imbalance of the motor, or start turning much higher rpm's.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's the Power Bond PB1463ST I installed on my stock 98 302 in May. It's a well made part, the ring is supposed to be attached much better than the OEM balancer, which is suspect above stock rpm's.

 

[massacre]

Gears are probably way easier than a torque converter. lol.

Most boosted cars like less gear, 3.55 or a little less

 

[RegionThr33]

Haven't updated since I finished the transmission build.
It's way quicker than it was. The extra frictions(Raybestos Stage1) and jmod really improved it.
The stall converter flashes at 2500. Less than I was told but it works well.
Added a drain to the pan. That was a no brainer.
Next up is a hydraulic hand brake

 

[RegionThr33]

My exhaust is pretty close to the pan but I think It'll be fine. Also installed a new flexible transmission tube and dipstick.

 

[Turdle]

Love the "no trespass" purple

 

[jah81592]

These 4dr Explorers weigh close to 4500lbs, so a 15 second time is definitely fast. It's not like newer sports cars that have variable valve timing and DOHC, big power per CI, 3500lbs light etc.

Keep at it, have fun and be safe.

I agree on this. I remember when I was trying to get in the 7's (1/8th mile) with mine it was difficult-major brick wall. The truck would always run 8.20's @ 84.51 in the heat(1/8th) and 12.70's (1/4) around 101-103. I still question why this particular Ex isn't running faster than 13.50's@ 97! Mine was only a v6 on 8 psi of boost. I am curious to see a timeslip. There is so much more that is available in this particular vehicle. Please do not take any of this statement wrong I am just curious. Just for comparison my Ex made 425hp/448 torque on 8 psi. She was tuned to the ragged edge ( I never would have sent a customer tune out this hot).

 

[Dono]

I'm sure with the trans fixed up and a higher stall converter the slip will look way better.
I love the way this combination is setup also. I'm sure it will just keep getting faster and faster as the tweaks happen.

 

[RegionThr33]

Yeah. My trans was killing the times. I'll definitely update everyone when I get to run it. Hopefully soon.