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Torque Monster Headers Install Write-up and Review

Well hot-diggity!
 



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You know, Bassani makes a stainless steel header gasket for our motors.

www.bassani.com/part/4758

I don't know why anyone would bother with that single (#5 cylinder) gasket when trying to replace it when there is a high quality no BS gasket available. Any gasket (that fits) should never be a problem if your header bolts are tight-to-spec. If your too lazy, keep forgetting or didn't buy locking header bolts, Fel-Pro, Remflex or what ever gasket you choose will always keep blowing out on you, unless of coarse it's SS, which you would just retighten the bolt without buying new gaskets.

Off Topic...

Still trying to get my head around the reason a header gasket designed for a Ford 302, with any header or aftermarket head (except a high port designed head or a head with dual header bolt position designed for porting to 300cfm and/or 1 3/4 header) would not fit (despite gt40p spark plug angle) on an Explorer.

Turtle, did you ever find out the reason you had trouble with matching the TMH's bolt positions with your Edelbrock's?
 






You know, Bassani makes a stainless steel header gasket for our motors.

www.bassani.com/part/4758

I don't know why anyone would bother with that single (#5 cylinder) gasket when trying to replace it when there is a high quality no BS gasket available. Any gasket (that fits) should never be a problem if your header bolts are tight-to-spec. If your too lazy, keep forgetting or didn't buy locking header bolts, Fel-Pro, Remflex or what ever gasket you choose will always keep blowing out on you, unless of coarse it's SS, which you would just retighten the bolt without buying new gaskets.

Off Topic...

Still trying to get my head around the reason a header gasket designed for a Ford 302, with any header or aftermarket head (except a high port designed head or a head with dual header bolt position designed for porting to 300cfm and/or 1 3/4 header) would not fit (despite gt40p spark plug angle) on an Explorer.

Turtle, did you ever find out the reason you had trouble with matching the TMH's bolt positions with your Edelbrock's?

Well, quit trying to get your head around something you do not have experience with. I understand you trying to help, but trying to understand in a help thread is no help.

the ports of the gt40p heads are different, the header bolt is moved slightly trying to use a "normal" mustang gasket will result in port protrusion.

The #5 tube is 2 piece to get around the steering. The gasket is for the tube joint. That is why they are "messing around with it" :rolleyes::rolleyes:

DSC00405.jpg




The aluminum crush gaskets worked for my huge port edelbrocks.

Are you up to speed now?
 






Well, quit trying to get your head around something you do not have experience with. I understand you trying to help, but trying to understand in a help thread is no help.

the ports of the gt40p heads are different, the header bolt is moved slightly trying to use a "normal" mustang gasket will result in port protrusion.

The #5 tube is 2 piece to get around the steering. The gasket is for the tube joint. That is why they are "messing around with it" :rolleyes::rolleyes:

The aluminum crush gaskets worked for my huge port edelbrocks.

Are you up to speed now?

Sure am Boss, sure am...

;)

But why don't you just use an OEM replacement gasket for GT40p's and tighten the bolts right instead of tracking down Porsche part numbers?

???
 






Sure am Boss, sure am...

;)

But why don't you just use an OEM replacement gasket for GT40p's and tighten the bolts right instead of tracking down Porsche part numbers?

???
The gasket in question is in the header assembly not the engine header interface.

Headers are not factory manifolds (duh Right?:)). Simply by the nature of the materials used (cast vs. steel or stainless) expansion rates are different. There are more factors than just bolt torque. OEM gasket are designed with cast on cast expansion not cast bolted to a piece of steel. The rigidity of the header is different than the stock manifold and the list goes on.
 






The gasket in question is in the header assembly not the engine header interface.

Headers are not factory manifolds (duh Right?:)). Simply by the nature of the materials used (cast vs. steel or stainless) expansion rates are different. There are more factors than just bolt torque. OEM gasket are designed with cast on cast expansion not cast bolted to a piece of steel. The rigidity of the header is different than the stock manifold and the list goes on.

LMAO!

Thanks dk. Makes all the sense in the world now (DUH!).

Jon, do you have the "Dumbass of the Day" award handy? I know it's still early, but I don't think anyone is going to top this one today.

:D

:salute:
 






That Remflex gasket wasn't the one that broke when the bolts loosened themselves .

Nope, that was Bob's gasket. The Remflex was cinched fine. Worked fine for maybe a year when chunks of the gasket started breaking off a little at a time until I essentially had no gasket. Having way better luck now with Bob gaskets, cinched right.
 






Grrr okay. This is gonna sound silly coming from someone who's had these headers nearly 5 years now. But I'm replacing the driver's side gasket and everything was going alright. That is until it came to lining everything back up right. Some of the bolts were fighting with me then I got 7 outta 8 snugged down. But the 3rd bolt over from the front (Left bolt on primary 6) Will not thread in for the life of it. I cannot figure out why and has resulted in a paragraph of colorful language and a few slammed wrenches. I've done this task several times but for some ungodly reason it's fighting me big time. And no matter how much I try to move the header flange and slide the gasket around It still will not thread any bolt in there. Any ideas?
 






Grrr okay. This is gonna sound silly coming from someone who's had these headers nearly 5 years now. But I'm replacing the driver's side gasket and everything was going alright. That is until it came to lining everything back up right. Some of the bolts were fighting with me then I got 7 outta 8 snugged down. But the 3rd bolt over from the front (Left bolt on primary 6) Will not thread in for the life of it. I cannot figure out why and has resulted in a paragraph of colorful language and a few slammed wrenches. I've done this task several times but for some ungodly reason it's fighting me big time. And no matter how much I try to move the header flange and slide the gasket around It still will not thread any bolt in there. Any ideas?

Start by removing bolts until you can move it enough to get the stubborn bolt in, then place the others again. Do not remove the end bolts though--you need something to hold the gasket in place. Hope this helps.
 






You aren't going to like this suggestion...but you may have to loosen the flange nuts on that tube that separates. The problem with that...is finding a gasket to replace the one you are likely to ruin. But I'm betting that once you have everything loose, it will allow everything to line up. Worse case scenario is you drill out the hole in the flange a little larger, but I would make that a last resort.
 






You aren't going to like this suggestion...but you may have to loosen the flange nuts on that tube that separates. The problem with that...is finding a gasket to replace the one you are likely to ruin. But I'm betting that once you have everything loose, it will allow everything to line up. Worse case scenario is you drill out the hole in the flange a little larger, but I would make that a last resort.

Well I actually did loosen the top nut on that flange tube. Now I can get that one bolt to sort of go in. But it doesn't go in straight and tightens prematurely. So I may just need to loosen the bottom nut on there just a but and maybe it'll go into the hole straight. I never remember having this much issue replacing this before. BUT I will say a couple of months ago I did actually put a new gasket on that flange tube. Maybe I didn't line it up straight with the rest of the header because I did remove that tube without loosen the rest of the bolts. Thanks for the tip Jon as well, I actually been trying that and even then it still won't line up quite right. So let's so I loosen the flangeg up some more and it does line up. What order would you recommend re-tightening everything down? Once all 8 of the main flanges are in place then re-tighten the joint tube?
 






I believe in tightening down from the inside out. That way everything moves in an outward direction. After the flange is tight, tighten that tube flange. Warm up the car, let it cool, and tighten again. Do that a couple of times. If you used MLS gaskets, you may never change it again those are so good.
 






I believe in tightening down from the inside out. That way everything moves in an outward direction. After the flange is tight, tighten that tube flange. Warm up the car, let it cool, and tighten again. Do that a couple of times. If you used MLS gaskets, you may never change it again those are so good.

Where can one aquire these gaskets?
 






So, I'm gonna be ordering a set of TMHs from Al's Headers here soon, and I just wanted to ask a few questions and clarify some stuff.

1st: Body Lift. I haven't decided on a body lift yet. If I do go the full three inches, are the modified headers required to clear the steering shaft? So If I get a regular set, decide to do a BL later on down the road, would I be able to use the regular driver's side header or would I need the modified one?

2nd: Bolts. Stainless, or nickel plated steel? 6pt, 12pt, locking 6pt/12pt? Lengths required? I've looked at the ARP 400-1110 set and also at some Stage 8 locking ones, and there's just so many choices I don't even know where to begin, especially without having these in my hands or the Explorer close by to look.

3rd: Antiseize. Pure Nickel or High Temp Stainless? Does it matter if I use the nickel with stainless bolts or vise versa?

4th: Gaskets. With some high quality bolts, either the ARP or Stage 8 ones, and proper torque, heat, cool, torque cycles, should I need anything different? With the bolts tightened perfectly and assuming they don't back out, the supplied gaskets should be plenty strong, right?

5th: Coating. I'm trying to avoid anything bright and flashy for my truck, as it's going to have a very military theme to it. Has anyone ever painted over the coating with high temp paint, or had them blasted and repainted? I'd like to use something like the KBS Cast Iron Grey Xtreme Temperature Coating for these.

6th: Underhood temps. Does anyone have any actual numbers for any temp increases? I'm not too worried about it since my cowl hood should be able to help cool quite a bit more, unless it's something crazy like a 20c increase.

This should be a bit easier for my installation than y'alls, since my engine is already out, and when it's done and back in the frame then the body just gets dropped down around it. Despite that, I know I'm still going to have to mess around with various heat socks and clever wire routing. Thanks to everyone who gave their input here!
 






Finally! It did take unloosening the joint flange to get them all lined up and threaded in. Now for a test drive! :salute:
 






So, I'm gonna be ordering a set of TMHs from Al's Headers here soon, and I just wanted to ask a few questions and clarify some stuff.

1st: Body Lift. I haven't decided on a body lift yet. If I do go the full three inches, are the modified headers required to clear the steering shaft? So If I get a regular set, decide to do a BL later on down the road, would I be able to use the regular driver's side header or would I need the modified one?

2nd: Bolts. Stainless, or nickel plated steel? 6pt, 12pt, locking 6pt/12pt? Lengths required? I've looked at the ARP 400-1110 set and also at some Stage 8 locking ones, and there's just so many choices I don't even know where to begin, especially without having these in my hands or the Explorer close by to look.

3rd: Antiseize. Pure Nickel or High Temp Stainless? Does it matter if I use the nickel with stainless bolts or vise versa?

4th: Gaskets. With some high quality bolts, either the ARP or Stage 8 ones, and proper torque, heat, cool, torque cycles, should I need anything different? With the bolts tightened perfectly and assuming they don't back out, the supplied gaskets should be plenty strong, right?

5th: Coating. I'm trying to avoid anything bright and flashy for my truck, as it's going to have a very military theme to it. Has anyone ever painted over the coating with high temp paint, or had them blasted and repainted? I'd like to use something like the KBS Cast Iron Grey Xtreme Temperature Coating for these.

6th: Underhood temps. Does anyone have any actual numbers for any temp increases? I'm not too worried about it since my cowl hood should be able to help cool quite a bit more, unless it's something crazy like a 20c increase.

This should be a bit easier for my installation than y'alls, since my engine is already out, and when it's done and back in the frame then the body just gets dropped down around it. Despite that, I know I'm still going to have to mess around with various heat socks and clever wire routing. Thanks to everyone who gave their input here!

You don't need to do a body lift to fit these in your truck. I don't know about the capatibility of using them with a 3" lift.

The headers come with their own bolts including lock washers - 12pt. There will be 2 different length bolts depending on the location.

Your preference on antiseize but there are 3? places where you can't use a lock washer due to clearance issues and he supplys lock tight for those.

There are many gasket types available but the supplied gaskets fit the best. Personally I don't know about the longevity of them.

Any coating on these will void the warrenty if you care about that.

Under hood temps do increase significatly but I do not have before and after #'s.

I recommend heat socks on every wire because the wires will get HOT.

Good luck
 












Finally! It did take unloosening the joint flange to get them all lined up and threaded in. Now for a test drive! :salute:

:D Love it when a solution comes together!
 






I hope some of you are still subscribed to this thread...

Does anyone know how to come up with the fitting that Bob supplied with his headers for the EGR tube in the right side header? I am going to need one the next time mine has to come apart.
 



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I hope some of you are still subscribed to this thread...

Does anyone know how to come up with the fitting that Bob supplied with his headers for the EGR tube in the right side header? I am going to need one the next time mine has to come apart.

Can you show a picture of exactly the part you're talking about?
 






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