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Transfer Case

Interesting question
You might be able to split the cases in the truck but to do the repair would be very very difficult, you need the case on a work surface where you can keep track of parts, catch fluid, and align the two halves and parts to put it back together. I think this would be near impossible in the truck.
The V6 case in held in place with 5 bolts
drain case
remove front and rear driveshafts
unhook wiring for shift motor and vss sensors. Unpin the brown wire if needed (or cut it)
Unclip the transfer case vent tube
remove the 5 t case bolts
The top most bolt on the passenger side is the most difficult to reach because the exhaust is in the way, it can be gotten to with a 3/8" ratchet, extension and 13mm wobbly socket
The V6 t case is pretty light, I almost always drop them and stab them by hand, no jacks needed.
You should get a new gasket and iof course fluid for when you re install
 



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Hi again guys here's another question I'd like to throw out there.Because I'm only running 2WD at the moment with the front driveshaft disconnected would it be possible to empty the Transfer Case ( that means no chain or gears ) and just run the output shaft and have permanent 2WD. I don't do any 4WDriving. Just a thought.
 






Ron I don't recall what exactly the problem was with your transfer case.
 






Well I was changing it out because there is a loud clunk or clang under the car on acceleration only. So then I've decided to remove T/C and pull apart to see what was wrong.
 












What is easiest way to check trans mount it looks ok.
 






Have to get the load off it, to see if the rubber has split or separated from the mount. Best to remove it for a closer inspection.

Not that hard of a job, but if you never done one before, it might take a little longer. Just need basic tools, and Jack stands.
 






The V6 t case is pretty light, I almost always drop them and stab them by hand, no jacks needed.
You should get a new gasket and iof course fluid for when you re install

The V8 transfer case is actually lighter (BW4404) since it doesn't have the low range. I find the V6 case to be a bit heavy to muscle without a jack but the V8 case is more doable.
 






Well guys I'm at a lose I've replaced the T/C replaced the tranny mount & still the loud clunk or rattle on acceleration coming from under vehicle But I did notice that sometimes it sounds like it's coming from rear of car. Would this be universal joint problem? I hope so I've got no more idea's.
 






The only things moving at the rear would be drive shaft, U joint or differential. Check fluid level in diff, look for for loose bolts, look to see if anything is rubbing... Maybe exhaust...
 






I did notice when this noise occurs you can feel it in the drive line like a slight jolt.
 






Grab hold of the drive shaft and twist it and see if you can feel or see any movement. There will be some movement back and forth but if you feel it binding or clunking you might have a starting point on where to look next.
 






No no movement that I can feel. I'm going replace U joints anyway. But it still has me stumped.
 












I posted about an hour ago regarding T/C & tranny mount all replaced , leaf spring hangers all good.
 












Was the transfer case rebuilt? Maybe a loose T/C chain?

How about the front driveshaft CV joint?
 






Are the parking brakes OK?
 






I will check all this out thanks guys I will post how I go.
 



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Well did the test on Drive shaft (rear) a fair bit of play in rotation but none backwards & forwards & a very slight bit of play when I twist the 2 pieces near T/C I mean 0.5 to 1mm. And parking brake is a bit sticky very hard to turn the wheels off the ground I can hear the disc & pads scraping. Is this all ok?
 






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