Solved Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart

[MaxAmerican]

The AOD, AODE, and 4R70W do not have band adjustments.

The AOD, AODE, 4R70W, C3, C6, A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, and 5R55E do not have any adjustment for the low/reverse band.

The C4, and C5 low/reverse band is adjustable. The adjustment screw is tightened to 120 in.-lbs. (10 ft.-lbs.), then backed off 3 turns. The locknut is tightened to 40 ft.-lbs (35-45 ft.-lbs.).

Intermediate band adjustments on the C3, C4, C5, and C6:

All models have their adjusting screws tightened to 120 in.-lbs. (10 ft.-lbs.), but the turns back are different.

C3
1980, and earlier models are turned back 1-1/2 turns.
1981, and later models are turned back 2 turns.

C4
1-3/4 turns back.

C5
4-1/4 turns back.

C6
1-1/2 turns back.

This information was obtained from the Haynes Ford Transmission Overhaul Techbook # 10355. Page 6-6 states that normal wear of bands requires a band adjustment every 15,000 miles, or in situations where there are symptoms of sluggish shifts, delayed shifts, slipping, and in extreme cases a loss of drive.

Thanks for the info. I just put 19000 miles (103000 Total) on a '03 XLS I got 7 months ago and developed the P0745 & P0733 syndrome. Maybe a flush, filter, & adjustment will correct the problem. I was quoted $721 for the solenoid block replacement. It just might be a scheduled service adjustment as the quote from the Haynes Manual suggests.

 

[lonestar]

Whats the average amount of adjustment at ~100K?

Starting getting flashing OD light, 1-2 shift delay with light foot, and no OD over ~week. After some reading was convinced it was OD servo or band.. Decided to try adjusting OD band and make sure it wasn't broke. Stud had ~4-5 threads above locknut, turned it in atleast 4-5 turns with no increased tension, wrench set @ 120 in-lb. So I assume it was broke, but thinking it was shifting 1-2, maybe it was shifting 1-3. So back it out ~1 turn, and tighten lock nut with ~1 thread above locknut. Take it for a drive and its better, not perfect but better.. :scratch: 1-2 shifts better and I have OD, no flashing. So guess it's not broke.

Spec says to back out 2 turns, is it possible to turn in 5+ turns before 120 in-lb? Stud threads would be below locknut, maybe damaged servo piston?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The band is broken if it can't tighten to spec. A worn band causes the stud to turn more than a good band since it has less band material.

 

[lonestar]

thats what I was thinking, but how much turning for a worn band? How many turns is worn-out? After 4-5 turns and pretty much running all stud threads into locknut I just assumed it was broke and stopped, but obviously it wasn't, as I now have OD, and sloppy but better 1-2 shift. Maybe a damaged OD servo causing excessive take-up?

Getting a free driving electronic scan, I'll see what they say. Maybe take it home and try turning it some more. But I'm guessing, given the bore issue, a rebuild is highly recommended at 100+K.

Thanks Brooklyn, and Glacier, for the wealth of info...

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could replace the serovs since they are old. Is the heat shield still in good condition?

 

[RobertTDonahue]

Band adjustment

Thank you for posting the information, It allowed me to finish the job late at night,
Robert in San Jose

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! That's great news! It's good to hear success stories.

 

[reldong2]

4r44e band adjust

If I just turned the adjustment nut in 1 turn then test drove it.
each time. ?????????????

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Follow the procedure on the first page of this thread.

 

[Benji-Man]

BrooklynBay, after some significant searching I'm still unsure if adjusting the bands will help cure the slipping issue my aunt is experiencing with her Explorer. I guess being unsure of exactly how the band is used. I.E. if it just controls the drum in between shifts or if it constantly holds the drum during acceleration.

1995 Explorer 4.0 4x4 approx 1 yr ago the had trans rebuilt after i noticed the hook on the overdrive band was broken off. I am unsure of the trans shop reputation. When they had it rebuilt, they purchase a rebuilt VB from Central VB to have installed. Trans seemed to be fixed after rebuild, until just recently, when they start telling me that it seems to slip during acceleration. They said it does shift through the gears normally, but if you try to accelerate to quickly they say that the rpms will increase without the truck responding at the same rate. Also unsure if the TC was replaced at rebuild or if this could be an issue.

Your knowledge and feedback is greatly appreciated. I know that my Explorer is still on the road because of information from people such as yourself have taken the time to share. THANK YOU !!!:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did they replace the servos when they replaced the bands?

 

[Benji-Man]

Unsure, if the servos were replaced, just trying to understand if adjusting the band would even be worth the time. Since the trans shifts through the gears fine just doesn't pull under moderate/heavy throttle

A little feedback is in order, it seems as the overdrive band was a bit out of adjustment and the fluid was 1.5 qts over-full. No-one would admit to adding any, however, I used a siphon pump to remove 1.5 qts. We're going to make sure that its shifts and pulls properly for a week and then I will drop the pan and replace the filter and fluid again The fluid already had a slight burnt smell and a slight discoloration.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could try a band adjustment before you replace any parts.

 

[EZ-E]

Can you adjust the bands before the valve body is bolted on? I am waiting on a new gasket set for my VB assembly and I was wondering if it would be ok to adjust the bands in the mean time.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could adjust the bands without the valve body.

 

[EZ-E]

Brooklyn Bay for President!

 

[davidg25]

Sometimes a code will get thrown if the band is either broken, or out of specification. It will also feel like the 2nd, and overdrive are a little delayed, and not positive feeling. Sometimes this could be mistaken for a rotted piston. First start with the band adjustments before replacing the pistons. There are other factors involved which could make the transmission have similar symptoms. Low EPC pressure could cause weak shifts. Bad sensor inputs from the VSS, BOO switch, and TPS could create a loss of overdrive, and TCC lock up. A bad governor could cause a 1-2 shift delay when it is cold. A bad modulator could cause shifting problems as well.

I'm having a 1-2 shift delay when cold. This problem started last March, disappeared, returned to 'normal' during spring /summer, and just returned in the past 3 weeks as the temps dropped.

It will shift hard into 2nd (around 4500) and the O/D Off light flashes. I'm still trying to find something else to read the actual code, but where is the governor? I'd replaced the VSS on the differential, and changed fluid and filter. I have trouble seeing how a band is temp sensitive, so I'm looking for something else.

I don't like to shotgun parts so I'm slowing down to ask now

Many Thanks,
dave

 

[BrooklynBay]

Your transmission doesn't have a governor. The A4LD has a governor. A good quality scanner is capable of reading manufacturer specific transmission codes.

 

[davidg25]

Thanks - going that route !

It was P1756 / P0732 so I'm trying to find SSB. Checking other threads.....

 

[papagoose]

Thanks BrooklynBay!

I've been having second gear issues with a 1994 exploder I just picked up. Adjusted the bands like you said and now it drives great! Thanks for the awesome tech article