truck won't move, please help

[proffessor1979]

my 94 xlt is stuck at the moment in a mall parking lot. It WILL NOT go in reverse. WHen I put the transmission in reverse it doesn't move and also in Neutral. MY friends father came with his truck and tried to pull me out with the trans in Neutral but it was like something was locked up so bad it wouldn't even roll in Neutral.

In Drive it seems to work, but I could only go forward about 6 inches until i hit a wall.

The truck was fine prior to that. I parked to go into the movies, come back out and she doesn't want to move. In P, R, and N it all feels like it's still in Park.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It could be a couple of issues. Did you try changing your 4X4 settings? Maybe it might be a transfer case issue. The second thing is maybe the Z link in the transmission got bent.

 

[proffessor1979]

I did try reverse in 4wd and still nothing. My ex's father knows some things about cars...he's more of an older camaro kind of guy, but even he said it was wierd.

All seemed to be fine, and yesterday i took off my battery to get at my headlight better to replace the bulb and today this problem. The other wierd thing is when I turn my key backwards to give it power, there is no power.

ANyway, Wouldn't the truck at least go into neutral if reverse "broke"? It's like it is still in park. And it actually almost feels like the truck wants to go forward when I have it in reverse. I'd rather not find out b/c the spot im parked in is the 3rd level of a parking garage, and directly in front of me is the ramp. So if I shoot forward my trucks falling about 15 feet.

Not the best spot to lose reverse in.

I had some trans problems with rough shifting, and the fact it wouldn't go past a certain mph. I got my MAF replaced and all the transmission problems cleared up. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with me taking off my battery for a while in relation to the computer settings?

 

[BrooklynBay]

When you disconnect the battery, the PCM has to relearn a new pattern of operation. This transmission is not completely electronic like the 4R55E, or 5R55E so it should not affect it in that way. There might be some internal issue such as a seized planetary, or clutch pack assembly. Since you have drive this is unlikely, but not impossible. Do you have low gear, and regular drive, or one without the other? There is a low/reverse band in the rear which controls low gear, and reverse engagement. I would suggest that you drop the pan, and check the Z link as stated in my previous post. Check this link for more information: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155599

 

[1IronMike]

Did you check to see if they put the "BOOT" on you? You know if you do not pay for all those parking tickets, it will happen. ;>) lol.....

Does you motor seem to bog down when you are trying to move? Maybe a wheel bearing has siezed or your brake shoes are locked up, is the parking brake off?
Seems mechanical to me.

 

[proffessor1979]

nothing seems to bog down....it revs like i'm in park. It just sucks I'm in a mall parking lot. What gets me is how 10 minutes before I parked everything was fine, then i go see a movie, come back out and i can't move.

Parking brake isn't on or anything like that either.

 

[1IronMike]

How about your transmision fluid level? Is it low? If you do not show any fluid on the stick, you will not move.

 

[proffessor1979]

fluid level is good. I just got it change about 3 weeks ago along with the filter. I was reading in some other posts about the O rings or something inside the pan for the filter?

 

[proffessor1979]

How would the tow truck get it out anyway? I'm not sure a flatbed would have enough room to fit straight behind me considering I am in a parking lot..which is pretty busy. And since my tires don't even roll backwards at all. Do they drag it or something?

 

[proffessor1979]

so if the Z link gets bent, would it still go in park? I was just at my truck again but the flat bed couldn't fit into the parking deck..I ahve to wait until tomorrow and call AAA and tell them i need a wrecker with dollies..this blows..

It almost felt like it was in Drive when I put it in Reverse, which actually makes sense if it is the Zlink from reading that other thread.

Would park still be park?

 

[Maniak]

If the z-link bent or came off you can still put the vehicle into park. The park "rod" is connected to the outside piece sort of directly. The Valve body is connected to the outside by the z-link.

I had the z-link come off (twice) and each time I got lucky and it happened to be stuck in drive. If I put the truck in park it would act like the truck was in gear with my foot on the brake. For example... When I start the truck the rpms immediatly drop to where they would be when I was in gear with my foot on the brake. Also, the rpms would not go over the stall speed of the converter.

I could get the truck to roll backwards by taking it out of park, but leaving it turned off. I could then roll the truck backwards so I could get out of a parking space.

~Mark

 

[proffessor1979]

I can't even get it to roll backwards..the back tires just don't want to go backwards AT ALL. Whether the car is on or off.. and in neutral.

Could it be the rear differential or something that locked up?

Drive works fine. I mean i only moved like 5 feet after i finally got towed back to my parents house in NJ, but it definitley moves forward. Front tires obviously move fine, but rear tires don't want to move backwards.

 

[Maniak]

Let me make sure I have this straight..

With the truck off, and in neutral the truck won't roll backwards.

With the truck off, and in neutral the truck WILL roll forwards.

With the truck on, and in gear it will drive forward under its own power.

With the truck on, and in park it doesn't act strange (e.g. low rpms etc).

~Mark

 

[proffessor1979]

Let me make sure I have this straight..

With the truck off, and in neutral the truck won't roll backwards. --correct

With the truck off, and in neutral the truck WILL roll forwards.--Incorrect, truck does not move anywhere in Neutral, on or off

With the truck on, and in gear it will drive forward under its own power.--correct

With the truck on, and in park it doesn't act strange (e.g. low rpms etc).--- I don't really remember, but I think it acted normal. Possibly around 6-800 RPM?

~Mark

answered questions

 

[proffessor1979]

So the guy at the shop by my parents says I need to get the trans overhauled, said it's a problem inside the trans, and its going to be about 1500-1700

Is there a way he could figure this out without taking the whole tranny off? Should I trust this guy? i mean I've had work done there before, but i'm just not so sure this go around.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Shops always suggest an overhaul. Ask him what he did to determine this (pressure test, air test adapter plate with VB removed, etc).

 

[biggs92EB]

So the guy at the shop by my parents says I need to get the trans overhauled, said it's a problem inside the trans, and its going to be about 1500-1700

Is there a way he could figure this out without taking the whole tranny off? Should I trust this guy? i mean I've had work done there before, but i'm just not so sure this go around.

1500-1700 is way to much. last time i replaced my tranny, it was 900 w/ a 3 year 55K warranty. I also had them install it, change the tranny cooler and lines for a totatl of 1280$ And im in Expensive ass cali

 

[BrooklynBay]

The guys in NY also charge about $1,700 for an A4LD, and only give you a 30 day warranty, or a six month warranty depending on the shop. Maybe this is cheaper in California?

 

[biggs92EB]

wow thats amazing, It would cost about 100 bucks to UPS an a4LD. I would buy one from somewhere else, to me if someone is only willing to give you a 6 month or less warranty then they arent very confident in their work. the trans in my ex has abou 50K on it now and hardly any of those are hwy miles, a ton of mud boggin and rock crawlin, the trans still holds up. I got it from Transmatic in Chico, CA. maybe they ship?

 

[BrooklynBay]

To buy one from over the counter in a Ford dealership is about $1,500-$2,400 depending which dealer you go to. They only give you a year warranty on that. This price is without installation. I once had experience with one of those. They only have soft parts rebuilds, and have worn hard parts which will fail as soon as the warranty is up (if they even last that long)! They have no updated hard parts, and sometimes give you an older one than the core you gave them. It takes 29 days to get, or Ford has a policy that they must give you a full refund if it is over 30 days (I also have experience with that).