Unable to start 1998 Explorer

[Winfied Lange]

Daughter has a 1998 Ford Explorer that I purchased for her about 5 years ago. As soon as you try and start it, it goes dead. I have found that I can disconnect the battery, and reconnect it, and everything goes back on until you try and start it again. I have put a voltmeter to the battery and it is good. I put the voltmeter to just the cable clamps connected to the battery and they are good until I try and start the engine with the ignition, then the voltmeter will read 2.5 volts or less from the clamps. Reset by disconnecting the battery for a second, and then it everything comes back unless I try and start it again.

Also, I have a big battery charger cart that allows me to jump start the car, which I have tried, plus tried jump starting from my other car.

The battery reads 12.8 volts on my voltmeter. Just to be sure, I took it to the WalMart and they checked it as good. I turned the ignition on but did not try and start it. I turned the head lights on, and then it went dead, so it looks like an additional load, like from trying to start it, or the ignition turned on and then turn on the headlights kills everything. I just went and reset it again by disconnecting the battery. I turned on the headlights, then turned the key to the first click. Working. Next click and the ding ding from the headlights being on and the door being open goes slower. Went to the ignition to the next click, but not starting, and it last 2 to 3 seconds, then the load gets too much, and everything shuts off, to which I can reset by disconnecting the battery.

 

[1998Exp]

...
Also, I have a big battery charger cart that allows me to jump start the car, which I have tried, plus tried jump starting from my other car.

The battery reads 12.8 volts on my voltmeter. Just to be sure, I took it to the WalMart and they checked it as good. I turned the ignition on but did not try and start it. I turned the head lights on, and then it went dead, so it looks like an additional load, like from trying to start it, or the ignition turned on and then turn on the headlights kills everything.
...

Open circuit (unloaded) voltage does not mean much, and with all due respect to Walmart, it sounds like your battery is dead, unable to deliver any current. Have you tried a different one?

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Sounds like a classic bad battery, batteries need testing at standby and load.

 

[koda2000]

A fully charger battery reads around 12.6 volts. The fact that when you tested the battery you saw 12.8 volts indicates the battery is good. Also the fact that you get 2.5 volts checking at the terminal clamps means they are either loose or dirty. Have you tried removing and cleaning the terminals and terminal clamps? I've had clamps that look clean enough, but weren't making good contact under a load.

 

[Winfied Lange]

The terminals are clean, and my system goes dead when I try to start it. Once I disconnect and reconnect, the voltage goes back to normal read on the clamps on my voltmeter. Also, something funny my daughter, who just came home and it's dark out. The top Brake light is flickering. I didn't believe her at first, but the light is flickering. Pushed brake pedal and it lit up, but it flickers all by itself.

 

[Rhett]

Sounds like a bad battery to me. I know you had walmart test it, but it sounds like it's not handling a load. That would account for all the electrical weirdness you are seeing.

 

[Winfied Lange]

Its night now, but tomorrow I am yanking the battery from my 89 Honda CIVIC, as its the only car I have with the battery posts the same as the Explorer,

 

[toypaseo]

It sounds like the click-and-dead problem I had.

In the past, my positive battery terminal was replaced with an aftermarket unit. One day, turned the key, click, and instantly dead. In the end, the problem was cable corrosion inside the clamping area of the terminal. Cleaned that up, cleaned up the terminal, reclamped the wire, put terminal back on battery, everything normal.

Problem reoccurred a while later, but I knew what to look for. Wiggled the positive wire by the terminal, click-and-dead. Wiggled again, tightened the terminal wire clamp, and started fine.

Since corrosion was a problem, I switched to full brass terminals, with anti-corrosion felt washers. So far, no problems.

 

[Winfied Lange]

After I try the other battery from my Honda, I will follow-up on the cables, as my first instinct was maybe the cables weren't getting a good connection, maybe on the other end of the cables.

 

[david4451]

Check your connections to starter solenoid, they should be clean and tight.
This was where I had a similar problem to you, if I looked at the connection it looked good but wasn't !!!
Could also be brushes on starter motor worn down, needing replacing.
It never ceases to amaze me how really clean looking connections can not be performing as you think they would, which includes battery and ground connections.

 

[koda2000]

I still say you've got a bad connection somewhere on the cables. I've seen this many times.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's likely corrosion in the main cables, or at one or more of the connections. My bet is the cable or both power and ground. Look at their age, 19 year old battery cables have corrosion inside of them.

 

[idontknow82]

It sounds like the click-and-dead problem I had.

In the past, my positive battery terminal was replaced with an aftermarket unit. One day, turned the key, click, and instantly dead. In the end, the problem was cable corrosion inside the clamping area of the terminal. Cleaned that up, cleaned up the terminal, reclamped the wire, put terminal back on battery, everything normal.

Problem reoccurred a while later, but I knew what to look for. Wiggled the positive wire by the terminal, click-and-dead. Wiggled again, tightened the terminal wire clamp, and started fine.

Since corrosion was a problem, I switched to full brass terminals, with anti-corrosion felt washers. So far, no problems.

I also replaced my positive with an aftermarket unit, same issue. The smallest things that seem like a non-issue these explorers make a big issue out of.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Check your grounds, I remembered something. We have a 79 F-700 we use as a heavy work truck, and it wouldn't start sometimes and had no headlights at times, also ate batteries, solution? Bad grounds.

 

[gatzdon]

Battery should be tested with a CCA tester, not a volt meter. About $45 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/BA5-100-1200-Cranking-Electronic-Battery/dp/B0017R5EQK

Another thing to look at since you say everything goes dead until you disconnect the battery is if there is a short in the starter.

But as others have already suggested, my money would be on a corroded connection somewhere.

 

[CDW6212R]

Battery should be tested with a CCA tester, not a volt meter. About $45 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/BA5-100-1200-Cranking-Electronic-Battery/dp/B0017R5EQK

Another thing to look at since you say everything goes dead until you disconnect the battery is if there is a short in the starter.

But as others have already suggested, my money would be on a corroded connection somewhere.

The OP has two threads about this. He posted in the other that he changed the battery, Walmart tested it under load, as bad.

 

[PJ Canada]

Did you find your problem? My 98 recently had a no start no crank condition due to corrosion on the wire from positive battery terminal to the power distribution box. Just for interest let us know!