Upgrade planning...

[scottyawd]

Hey all,
Just looking for some direction. I have a 92 Explorer Sport 4x4 and am at the point where an important decision needs to be made. I'm looking to update the front driveline on my Explorer and have come across two major options; getting extended I-beams, or installing a solid front axle. There are several prudent arguments for both the options.

I like the extended I-beams on account that I'll get maximum travel, as seen in the Camburg videos. I plan on spending some time in the sand and in the snow. Then I saw a few J**p speed videos and realized that they don't do too bad with the solid front axles. I never plan on runnin any larger than a 33 in. tire, so that may play in to the choice.

Any and all comments, pointers, or suggestions are more than welcome and greatly appreciated

 

[Spdrcer34]

Cut and Turned beams....or Extended Radius Arms.....

Which one are you referring to?

Ryan

 

[Tbars4]

...I run in the sand, snow, etc. on the stock set up with 35's just fine, and so do a lot of other people on here...Are you trying to set up your 4x4 for mobbing???

 

[scottyawd]

If I were to go with the modded I-beams, I would get the cut and turned Camburgs with the extended radius arms. (it all comes in a kit)

Would swapping out the explorer I-beams for full size Bronco I-beams be a viable option. I mean all the parts are going to be larger and stronger. I just don't know how much fabrication would be involved with that.

...and then I thought...

How much more work is a solid axle swap if I get all the parts from a donor vehicle?

Since I don't plan on running huge tires, and won't lift it more than 3.5-4.5 inches, is there sense in upgrading the front end. Maybe just upgrade the axles hubs and differential innards.

Let me know what your thoughts are.

Thanks tbars4 and spdrcer34 for the quick response.

 

[4x4junkie]

The fullsize (D44) stuff isn't much stronger except inside the diff housing itself, the shafts are pretty much the same stuff you have now (and is the typical failure point of either axle).

If you want a wider track, a fullwidth swap would be the way to go, otherwise keep your D35. It's a good stout axle and a couple dirt-simple upgrades like better locking hubs and u-joints in the axles will make it even better still.

Extended radius arms along with longer shocks and better coils will get you just about all the flex and travel you should need for most types of wheeling. If you're looking at jumping the thing and blasting around at speed, cut-&-turns would be a viable option for the better clearance they offer.

 

[scottyawd]

Forecast:

The fullsize (D44) stuff isn't much stronger except inside the diff housing itself, the shafts are pretty much the same stuff you have now (and is the typical failure point of either axle).

Extended radius arms along with longer shocks and better coils will get you just about all the flex and travel you should need for most types of wheeling. If you're looking at jumping the thing and blasting around at speed, cut-&-turns would be a viable option for the better clearance they offer.

Thanks Junkie. I think I figured it out.

Thus far here are this summer's upgrade plans:

Camburg 5" lift in the front.
(Eibach springs, Bilstein RR shocks, cut and turned I-beams, extended radius arms, mounts, and cross member, extended brake lines)

SOA rear and 1.75-2" rear shackles with Bilstein extended shocks.

CTM u-joints for the front axle assy.

BW1354 Manual t-case (GEM module that controls the push button 4X4 is effed)

Re-trimmed Recaro front buckets. (already have these, they just need to be recovered) <easy since I used to work in a trim shop>

New stereo (currently still running the original Ford tape deck from 92')
Hopefully I'll still get a discount on a Nakamichi CD400 from my old boss
Focal 5.25" 2 ways all the way around, and a Morell 6.5 sub to replace the blown JBL factory sub.

Well that's it. Let me know what you guys(/girls) think.