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Upper oil pan removal

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by nobodyfresh, December 16, 2008.

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  1. nobodyfresh

    nobodyfresh New Member

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    I have a 2000 SOHC that had the diesel sounds. I installed the 00m12 kit and replaced the following parts:

    YL2Z6L266AA Main Chain Tensioner
    2L2Z6K297AA Main Chain Guide
    F77Z6K297BC Balance Shaft Guide

    All the originals of those parts were intact but worn. The main chain had some slack in it that the new tensioner corrected. However, there was a broken piece resting on the balance shaft chain. It was a piece of the balance shaft tensioner, 1L2Z6L266AA. Replacement of this part requires removal of the oil pan. Due to time constraints I had to reassemble it.

    There are no nasty sounds coming from the engine anymore so I am very happy. However, I do not like knowing that the balance shaft tensioner is broken so I want to replace it in the next week or so.

    I am really burnt out from the last 2 times I tore this apart and don't want to remove the front timing cover and all necessary components again. Can I remove just the upper oil pan from underneath to replace this? If not, I'll probably have the dealer do it.

    Below is a picture of someone else's engine that I circled the broken tensioner in question.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. nobodyfresh

    nobodyfresh New Member

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  4. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    Did you replace the primary timing chain when you did the guide and tensioners?

    I don't know if the balance shaft tensioner can be replaced by removing the main oil pan or not. I do know that you have to lift the engine off it's mounts to get the main oil pan out.

    I am about to go in to my own engine and do the primary chain kit install soon. Hopeing to wait until spring when the garage is warmer and I can put my car on the road...
     
  5. nobodyfresh

    nobodyfresh New Member

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    I did not replace any timing chains while doing this. I only replaced the 2 guides and 1 tensioner.

    All I have to do is lift the engine a few inches and disconnect the motor mounts to remove the main/upper oil pan? If so, that is fairly easy to do. I'm wondering if anything below needs to be unbolted also...
     
  6. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    This is from another post:

    I have finally gotten my 98 back together... I was asked if I had to lift the motor to get my main oil pan off... I did! I had to lift the motor over 1.5 inches AND I dropped the front axle until the CV joints were sitting on the lower control arms... MAKE NOTE: if you drop the front axle to allow that little extra room, you can NOT move the vehicle at all!!

    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161701&highlight=crank+spacer
     
  7. nobodyfresh

    nobodyfresh New Member

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    Any estimate on how long or how involved it is to drop that front axle? I haven't looked at it close enough to estimate myself.

    Disconnecting the mounts, lifting the engine, and removing the lower oil pan is a relatively simple process that doesn't take very long.
     
  8. my98nnj

    my98nnj Well-Known Member

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    I recently replaced my front diff, wasn't to involved to get the unit unbolted from the chassis. I believe it was only 3 large bolts holding it up. Take those out and you should be able to lower it.
     
  9. nobodyfresh

    nobodyfresh New Member

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    If I lower the front axle when doing this, do you still need to lift the engine a few inches or is there enough room then?
     
  10. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    Does anyone know the answer to the above question? I am doing this job very soon....
     
  11. paWOLFck

    paWOLFck Member

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    It will be a tight fit without it. If it's only three bolts why wouldn't you?
     
  12. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    Just trying to save unnecessary work. Just three bolts to remove to raise engine?
     
  13. Space Truckin'

    Space Truckin' Member

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    This is my 2 cents worth. I have posted it in a couple other threads but the question comes up from time to time because pulling the engine is so much work. The steps below explain how I initially pulled the ladder frame (upper oil pan) without pulling the motor. However, it is not really worth the effort because after I got the ladder frame out, I ended up pulling the motor anyway. It was the only way to reinstall the ladder frame properly.


    The following must be removed before you will be able to remove the ladder frame (upper oil pan):

    Seven bolts and one nut on the left side of the ladder frame
    Eight bolts and one nut on the right side
    Five bolts at the front
    Two Torx screws at the back of the ladder frame
    Eight bolts through the bottom
    The bottom two bolts through the transmission
    Two Torx screws holding the oil pick-up

    The radiator, fan, and water pump will also need to be removed so the ladder frame can come out the front. Then you can unbolt the four bolts that hold the motor mounts to the vehicle’s frame and raise the motor several inches to get the necessary clearance to remove the ladder frame. However, this is not the recommended procedure because it does not allow proper re-installation of the ladder frame.

    When reinstalling the ladder frame a straight edge is used to position it properly in relation to the block. This prevents damage caused by interference between the flex plate/flywheel and the ladder frame. You cannot do this with the transmission still in place. It is also unlikely you will be able to get a good oil seal between the ladder frame and the block. For this reason, the proper way to remove and reinstall the ladder frame is to pull the engine first.
     
  14. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    If I read your post, you are saying the engine needs to come out in order to change the balance shaft tensioner. Is that correct?
     
  15. Space Truckin'

    Space Truckin' Member

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  16. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    I recall reading that stuff when I was pulling my upper oil pan(ladder frame) out.

    I was committed to changing the oil pump, so it had to come apart. I had the balance shaft tensioner break after I finished almost all the valvetrain work. It just broke while checking, looking etc. It's a fragile POS. I discovered then that the balance shaft was way out of time, that's when I got a manual and discovered there are timing marks for the balancer.

    Check the timing of the balance shaft first. If it's still in time you don't have to remove the balance shaft I believe. I had to, and that was no fun either.

    I saw the diff. coming out as the best way to work on it, so go ahead and yank that. Pull the axles out and drop the diff, it's not that bad, the diff itself.

    I read that stuff about reinstalling the ladder frame. The rear bolts to the trans are the key there, be very careful with those. I had no troubles putting it all back together, I just took my time and it went in fine. Just be patient when starting the first bolts for the upper pan, watch the alignment of the trans and pan carefully. Play with it, make sure it feels right and fits well. I did that and have no issues. I should have pulled the engine, but I didn't want to. Best of luck to you.
     
  17. bluestream1

    bluestream1 Active Member

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    Thanks Don. I bought the new balance shaft tensioner, and you are right it looks like a part from a Briggs and Stratton engine. I am going in to do the primary timing chain update with the kit also, and from my reading here I know the balance shaft tensioner will be shot as well. I was hoping to just have to lower the ladder frame and bolt in the new tensioner. If it has jumped time, I am not sure what I will do. Cross that bridge when I get there...
     
    Last edited: July 6, 2009
  18. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    I have forgotten the timing procedure from the manual. I did my balance shaft by having it in hand, and it's heavy, and snaked the sprocket up into the chain while aligning the dots. All I'm sure of is that the engine needs to be at TDC, that's the biggest deal.

    One last though I am more sure of after thinking of it months ago.

    If you have the ability to degree and engine, at least degree your SOHC's balancer for TDC. Meaning just like the first step of degreeing a cam, find the real TDC. I hated the special "TDC tool", it is not accurate.

    If you would use a piston stop tool and a degree wheel to start with, you can locate TDC and mark the balancer. Once you find TDC the right way and mark the balancer, you don;t ever have to use the POS TDC tool. If the balancer has an accurate mark for TDC then it's really easy to keep verifying it, which is a critical part of timing the cams. I didn't think of that when I did mine, but I sure wouldn't find TDC any other way now. Good luck with it, take your time.
     
  19. Abbé Ioannes

    Abbé Ioannes New Member

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    Hi lads,

    I have removed all bolts however the pan cannot be removed. Isn´t there any trick to pull it down?

    Thanks

    Abbé
     
  20. mr2fix2it

    mr2fix2it Active Member

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    no tricks it should just come down are you sure you got the bolts on rear side they are different i believe they are 30 torx they are hidden down the back of oil pan
     
  21. Abbé Ioannes

    Abbé Ioannes New Member

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    I found the one you are talking about, hidden behind the starter. Is there only one or are there on both sides? The pan seems to be jammed somehow. Should I pull the front or rear end at first?
    Btw: I have never seen such a silly engine before...
     

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