V8 swap issues. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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V8 swap issues.

Blacksheep Josh

Slinky+Escalator=Fun
Joined
July 31, 2006
Messages
3,659
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City, State
Statesboro, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Ford Ranger, RIP 93 X
2001 Ford Ranger Edge
V8 5.0 swapped from a 2001 Ford Explorer.
Only noteworthy modifications include an E-303 cam and 24# injectors.

Starts, revs, drives. Mostly everything is working as it should. It is throwing two codes, for the DPFE and the EGR valves, neither of which are hooked up, just have to get them deleted when it's stable enough to drive to the race shop to be dyno'd and fully tuned.

Idles pretty okay, but after 15-20 minutes worth of idling, it'll stall out. Whether it's in gear or not.

It also pops, like it's backfiring almost, when I first press on the gas. Like it wants to stall, pops a few times, and then when it finally catches back up, around 1500rpms or so, it revs beautifully in the upper rpms. When I let off, sometimes it'll pop coming back down, but with no cats in the exhaust or anything really dampening it, I've come to expect that. Had a 240 that did the same with wide aftermarket exhaust.

Mainly, it feels as it if takes a second for the engine to realize that I want to rev when I press on the accelerator pedal, wants to pop/die, and then catches up. If I keep it revved up, no issues.

I've confirmed the MAF is good, the TPS is good, the spark plugs are fresh and gapped correctly, the spark plug wires are fine, I double checked that the camshaft position sensor is correct, the crank sensor is also new, I've tried using a 91 and 93 octane tune that the Mustang shop wrote for me, and it did get a bit better with the 93 tune, it's still "odd" enough to prevent me from wanting to drive it.

I've run out of ideas. Could this all be tune related or is there something else I'm missing?

Motor is freshly rebuilt. No knocking/pinging, but this one issue just doesn't feel right.
 



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You need a new mass air meter or a tune. The A/F ratio is off because your using 24# injectors with the stock meter that is calibrated for 19#'s.

Or just put the 19# back in. You don't need them with the iron gt-40s. (not making over 300hp) But I'd still get a tune with the E cam in there.
 






agree. put the 19's back in. the computer thinks it still has those in it still, so it still wanting to send a pulse for that injector. if your tuner has a base tune for you to run them already, you have to log it for them to look at, then get them to readjust the tune
 






The current tune has the 24# injectors figured in.

I'll try to get a video.

I've also come across a diagram in a Chilton's manual that makes me doubt myself and the camshaft position sensor alignment. So I'm going to realign that, and be 100% about it.

Will post back within the hour.

Thanks!
 






Also, are they 24# injectors at 40psi or the 65+ that you're seeing on the returnless system you've got in the '01? They may in fact be much larger than the 24# rating at that pressure.
 


















Maybe vacuum leak. It's not spitting out any lean/rich codes with all that popping?

At this point I'd say tow it to your tuner so he can hook the 'puter to it and see what it's doing. If you're going to get a tune anyway, let him figure it out.
 






Also, are they 24# injectors at 40psi or the 65+ that you're seeing on the returnless system you've got in the '01? They may in fact be much larger than the 24# rating at that pressure.

There maybe something here also. Did you tell them about the higher pressure when getting the base tune?
 






No vacuum leaks.

Camshaft sensor WAS 180' out. The low rev issue is now mostly gone, but still doesn't feel quite right. I also didn't reset the computer after I fixed it, so maybe something to that.

Drove it around the block and when I actually press the pedal it responds.

Popping like hell though still. Have a video uploading to Youtube now.

Did not mention the 24# injectors at a higher pressure though. Let me get the video up so y'all can kinda see what's going on. Sometime's she'll start and idle a bit higher and then come down, but it struggles to keep it. Sometiems she'll start with a boost and die.

With the SCT, it's now throwing:
P0171 (too lean bank 1/2)
P0174 (too lean bank 1/2)
P0500 (with the swap, I lost the speedo for now, this is a VSS circuit)
P1401 (either DPFE or EGR not responding, they aren't hooked up, tune needed to delete it)
P1409 (either DPFE or EGR not responding, they aren't hooked up, tune needed to delete it)
P1000 (i think this is the readiness test not complete
 






What year/engine Navigator were they from? Alternatively, do you have a part number for the injectors?
 












Took a quick break for lunch.

Going to go and try to see if I can get a part number off the fuel injector.

Also running up to Autozone, all of 3 minutes away, to borrow a fuel pressure tester. I wanna see what the fuel pressure is/does. My memory is starting to tell me that the fuel pump setup from the 4.0 isn't compatible with the 5.0, something about pwm vs always on maybe? Idk. Thoughts?
 






And thanks for the help. Just trying to square it away as much as I can before taking it to the tuner, I'm unsure how much it'll cost to have them look at it and adjust it.
 






The pump should be fine. They're both returnless systems, and as I understand it each use PWM to regulate pressure.
 






Sounds pretty mean!

At this point I'd put the stock injectors and tune back on it and hopefully it runs good enough to get to the tuner. You really don't need the #24's until you get aluminum heads.
 






Don’t have any stockers and that’s too much to do without knowing what the problem is. Don’t wanna through the hassle until i can pinpoint a problem. With the Lean codes popping now, I’m gonna swap the axle for the limited slip and tak to the tuner.

FYI, mobile slow af
 






I'm still running 19s with my stage 1 comp cam in my ranger. It's specs are very close to e cam but it has 114 lobe sep.
 






You're absolutely sure about there being no vacuum leaks?
 



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Shouldn't be. I spent around 2 hours Monday afternoon making sure everything was plugged and sealed. I had a few big ones, things I had told myself "don't forget to plug that" that I indeed forgot to plug. I should have a boost/vacuum gauge around here somewhere that I'm going to hook up and see how much it pulls to verify.

If the injector sizing was too big, would that not cause a rich code instead of a lean code? I'm not opposed to sourcing some 19's and swapping them out, it's just a huge hassle with the intake spacer I'm using in relation to the Ranger firewall. It's a pain to line up the rear bolt and working around a few other things. I'd like to know what the problem is, or figure out a way to know what the problem is, before taking on such a job. I don't want to get through it, and same issue still keep happening. I'm just up against a wall.
 






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