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Valve Cover Gasket replacing

iAaronHD

Member
Joined
March 12, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Memphis, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
01' Explorer Sport
Recently I started getting a smell of oil coming through the vents of my Ex. I read a post on here suggesting that it was the valve cover gaskets, and I took it to a pro. They told me I needed both replaced and wanted to charge around $300-400. I'm not about to pay them that much. I'm no mechanic and don't know much about cars, but I'm determined to do this. I figure if I can tear down and rebuild computers why not be able to do the same with a car/truck. My question is can someone point me in the direction of some instructions on how to do this? They look like their going to be a real pain in the a$$ to get to.
 



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Recently I started getting a smell of oil coming through the vents of my Ex. I read a post on here suggesting that it was the valve cover gaskets, and I took it to a pro. They told me I needed both replaced and wanted to charge around $300-400. I'm not about to pay them that much. I'm no mechanic and don't know much about cars, but I'm determined to do this. I figure if I can tear down and rebuild computers why not be able to do the same with a car/truck. My question is can someone point me in the direction of some instructions on how to do this? They look like their going to be a real pain in the a$$ to get to.
What engine do you have?
 






They may not need replacing, just tighten the bolts.
 






If its for the 01 sport with the 4.0 SOHC, you are better replacing both sides while you are at it because you have to remove the upper intake plenum in order to get the valve covers removed.

Check this out.....

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268216&highlight=Valve+cover+gasket

Average price for a shop to do it is about $350. Gaskets are only $35 for the valve cover and intake set. Rest is labor. Dealer will charge about $600
 






Yeah I have an 01 Sport with the 4.0 SOHC. Thanks all for posting. @cnsheets: Why is it so outrageously high to get the gaskets replaced?

@ the shop I went to they wanted $99 for the gaskets and around $295 for the labor. Needless to say I bought the gaskets myself (for both sides) for $40.
 






Like I said, you need to do the upper intake gaskets as well since the upper intake plenum has to be removed in order to get to the valve covers. The labor is for all the junk that has to be undone to get to the valve covers such as the ignition coil, vacuum lines, wires, EGR tube, etc. .

I just had an entire fuel pump assembly done on my 01 sport. Cheap shop wanted $583 just for the pump assembly(OEM) and only $165 for the labor.

I found the OEM pump for $250 shipped and took it to the shop for them to do the labor portion. So they are only charging the $165.

So if your shop is ok with you supplying the parts and them doing labor, I would do it over having them supply all. The Valve cover gaskets are just the opposite, cheap parts, expensive labor.
 






Like I said, you need to do the upper intake gaskets as well since the upper intake plenum has to be removed in order to get to the valve covers. The labor is for all the junk that has to be undone to get to the valve covers such as the ignition coil, vacuum lines, wires, EGR tube, etc. .

I just had an entire fuel pump assembly done on my 01 sport. Cheap shop wanted $583 just for the pump assembly(OEM) and only $165 for the labor.

I found the OEM pump for $250 shipped and took it to the shop for them to do the labor portion. So they are only charging the $165.

So if your shop is ok with you supplying the parts and them doing labor, I would do it over having them supply all. The Valve cover gaskets are just the opposite, cheap parts, expensive labor.
I feel as though changing the valve cover gaskets is going to be hell for me, but what better way to introduce myself to a car/truck then introducing myself with a somewhat intricate task. If all goes well, I would have pulled out of this with only 40 bucks spent opposed to $400.

Also how much would the upper intake gaskets run me?

EDIT: Also in another post I read that someone had to remove the intake manifold, is that the same thing as the upper intake plenum?
 












this job isnt very complicated, but it can get confusing once you put it all back together. if you arent familiar with working on motors here are a few tips:

use a digital camera and take tons of pictures. every time you get to a section that looks like it might be confusing to put back together, take pictures of it as you work your way through taking it apart. that way you can use the pics as a reference.

another thing that i did one time when i took the top end of an engine apart was use painter's tape. on this particular motor, there were a ton of hoses and vacum tubes and it was a mess. what i did every time i pulled a hose off was use some painters tape and stick some on the hose and then where that hose connected. then i used a permanent marker and wrote a letter on both pieces of tape. that way i was positive on where every hose and tube needed to go

last thing, make sure you use a torque wrench when you put the valve cover bolts and/or manifold bolts and torque it down to spec. you dont want to snap a bolt on the block or you will be ripping your hair out. you can get the torque specs from a chilton manual, call up the dealer service dept or probably somewhere on the forum.

i was scared the first time i did this, but once i got it done for the price of a set of gaskets, a case of beers and a saturday, ill never pay someone else to do a job like this ever again.
 












Ok I got that in the set then, I was wondering what that was.

Cool, then like LONO said, if unsure, take pictures or make diagrams and label things. Take your time. It's not too bad. Just make sure the orings for the intake are set properly into place and don't come out when reassembling. I have used a dab of Vaseline applied with a toothpick to keep orings in place during reassembly.

Keep us posted on your project and how it goes.
 






yup, vaseline works good, or some red silicone too. just make sure the gaskets are seated properly before tightening, and then check by feeling with your fingers after you tighten the bolts to make sure they are seated properly once again.
 






You guys have given me more confidence that I can do this without screwing anything up. @LONO your Sport Trac is so beast that's some quality work man.

I have a couple more questions to ask you guys if you don't mind, I just want to reduce the need to make more threads if possible.

1. I want to put the warrior leaf spring shackles on my truck, besides the 1.25' rear lift are there any other benefits?

2. My truck is so awfully terrible on bumps, I've had my shocks changed as well as a wheel alignment, I was thinking it could be the ball joints but wouldn't I have been warned by whomever did the alignment about if I need new ball joints or not?

3. Also a big problem I have is the lag I get when switching from reverse to drive, or from park to drive. There is a yank when I pull off that feels like the transmission is slipping, but it shifts like butter when I'm driving. What's the deal with this?

4: I'm getting some pretty crappy gas mileage from my truck. I've had a 99 XLT, an 01 Eddie Bauer, and now my 01 Sport 4x4, out of the three the Eddie Bauer had the best gas mileage getting around 17 city 22 HW. I thought the Sport was supposed to be the best, I get around 10-15 city & HW. Occasionally I've smelled gas from under the hood when lurking around under there. Could this be a fuel line leak or something of the sort?

5. There are some loose tubes under the hood that aren't connected to anything, I'll post pics of this soon.
 






thanks, i couldnt have done it without the help of the forum. as for your questions;

1. you will actually get closer to 2" of lift in the rear. the only real benefit will be that you will be able to fit larger tires.

2. your torsion bars could be worn out which could pose a relatively costly repair. other than that, it could also be a number of suspension components that need replacing.

3. my trac has the same little lag, i dont think its too big an issue. my old mazda B had the same little lag as well, but neither it nor my trac have had any tranny problems 9knock on wood).

4. bad MPG could be caused by many many little things. i would start with a basic tune up. new plugs and wires, oil change, air filter change, all that good stuff. what size tires do you have right now? larger tires will decrease your MPG. do you have a roof rack or basket? this can effect your MPG as well. vacum leaks can cause bad MPG too, but you would usually get a CEL code if this is so. you actually arent getting too bad MPG actually.

5. post the pics of the loose tubes when you get the chance.
 






thanks, i couldnt have done it without the help of the forum. as for your questions;

1. you will actually get closer to 2" of lift in the rear. the only real benefit will be that you will be able to fit larger tires.

2. your torsion bars could be worn out which could pose a relatively costly repair. other than that, it could also be a number of suspension components that need replacing.

3. my trac has the same little lag, i dont think its too big an issue. my old mazda B had the same little lag as well, but neither it nor my trac have had any tranny problems 9knock on wood).

4. bad MPG could be caused by many many little things. i would start with a basic tune up. new plugs and wires, oil change, air filter change, all that good stuff. what size tires do you have right now? larger tires will decrease your MPG. do you have a roof rack or basket? this can effect your MPG as well. vacum leaks can cause bad MPG too, but you would usually get a CEL code if this is so. you actually arent getting too bad MPG actually.

5. post the pics of the loose tubes when you get the chance.

The highlighted parts of your post are things I've already had done. I think new tires all around would help as well. I figure by the time I'm done with this truck I'd have replaced most of the components of the suspension.

I have another question as well, in the future I want to have my truck lowered, my truck is a 4x4, how much is to much for a 4x4 and would getting the truck lowered defeat the purpose of the warrior leaf spring shackles?
 






if you plan on lowering your truck, than forget about the warrior shackles. those are strictly to give you height so you can clear bigger tires.
 






Yeah I'm in between on whether I wanted lifted or lowered. I have one last question (well maybe not the last question but...close).

When my truck gets to 65mph+ it starts to shake. The faster I go the worst the shake. Any thought on what could be the cause of that?
 






Yeah I'm in between on whether I wanted lifted or lowered. I have one last question (well maybe not the last question but...close).

When my truck gets to 65mph+ it starts to shake. The faster I go the worst the shake. Any thought on what could be the cause of that?

Get all 4 of your tires balanced. You might have thrown a weight. How long ago was the alignment done? The shop I go to usually will balance your tires while they do an alignment, and they only do a 4-wheel alignment.
 






Get all 4 of your tires balanced. You might have thrown a weight. How long ago was the alignment done? The shop I go to usually will balance your tires while they do an alignment, and they only do a 4-wheel alignment.

I bought the truck around February 6th and I guess a day or two after I bought it I had the alignment done. It looks as though all of my tires are different sizes, like the previous owner (who completely neglected the truck) just threw whatever tire she could find on it. Pretty soon I'm going to try to get a set of new tires, I think this is the reason as well, one of them anyway. Also I went to firestone and got the alignment. I don't know if they balance the tires when they do the alignment.
 



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