While it's not absolutely necessary, I prefer to remove the caliper and caliper bracket, rotor and dust shield to reduce the weight as much as possible. Then disconnect the outer tie rod end and take the ABS sensor wiring loose to get as much slack as possible in the wiring (you will not find it possible to remove the ABS sensor from the knuckle w/out damaging it).
Next remove the nut from the lower bj and use a pickle fork to knock the knuckle loose from the bj.
Remove the pinch bolt from the knuckle and the upper bj with the control arm should come right out of the knuckle, but sometimes rust might make it more difficult. Spray some penetrant on the knuckle and use a chisel to slightly open the slot if necessary to release the upper bj from the knuckle. Remove the knuckle and set it aside. This gives you plenty of room to work and your front wheel bearings probably need repacking anyway.
You can use a ball joint press to remove the lower bj from the control arm once the snap ring is removed, but I just support the LCA on a floor jack and smack it with a 5 lb hammer a few times to knock it out.
Now for the fun part, removing the driver's side upper control arm. Remove the nuts from the 2 bolts (the bolts can't spin as they're keyed into the locating plates). Once the nuts are off remove the UCA bolts (which will take a lot of wiggling, pushing, pulling and rotating of the alignment plates, because there are various fuel and A/C lines in the way). Eventually you will be able to get the bolts out if you're patient and get the fuel lines and A/C line out of your way. It helps to have an extra pair of hands during this struggle. I shake my head when I read where people can't get the bolts out and result to cutting the heads off with a saws-all. I've done this job many times and I've always been able to remove the bolts, though a fair amount of swearing will be required.
It's probably I good idea to replace the OE control bolts and plates with Moog adjustable caster/camber arm bolt kits, but the only time I've had problems was on one vehicle where the bolt kept slipping, ruining the alignment and both front tires. My regular alignment shop has never had a problem setting my alignment using the stock OE bolts/plates. Your results may differ.
Using a ball joint press to install the new lower ball joints is probably the best way to go, though I've never used one. If the holes in your LCA are worn, Moog lower ball joints are available in a slightly larger diameter.
Replacing the passenger side upper ball joint is a piece of cake due to its two-piece design.
Replacing the ball joints on the AWD/4WD is similar other than needing to remove the axle nut and getting the hub bearing assembly off the CV axle.
SOHC, OHV or V8 makes no difference.
