Which is better Pre-Oiler or By Pass? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Which is better Pre-Oiler or By Pass?

bogart219

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 ford ranger edge
Hello. I have been lurking here reading all the different threads about pre-oilers. I have the chain rattle at start up and have been holding the accelerator pedal down all the way when starting till I get oil pressure, as some members here have said they have done. I been gathering info to install a pre-oiler to take care of this problem.
Today I've read a thread where a member said that installing a By Pass system would be more beneficial than a pre-oiler. Now I'm more confused. Can someone educate me more on the better route to take? Thanks!
 



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Doesn't this mean that the tensioner is failing?
 






For helping to start the engine a pre-oiler is the best idea. That will provide oil pressure at the start, which is when the timing chains have slack in them, from lack of oil pressure. The external tensioners use oil pressure to apply more pressure to the chain guide, keeping the chain taught.

When you say "by pass system", do you mean a bypass filter system? If so, those are special systems which clean the oil far better than a normal oil filter. A typical oil filter catches only particles down to about 15-20 microns. A bypass filter is made to clean everything to about 2-3 microns. But those cannot flow the full amount of engine oil running, they are set up to only receive a tiny portion of the oil at a time. There is a restrictor in the inlet or outlet about 0.070", so it takes several trips for all of the oil to find its way into the bypass filter.

Semi trucks all use bypass filter systems, the cleaner oil lasts longer and the engine has less wear. The bypass filter is added as an extra component, besides the normal full flow filter. I'm planning to install those in all of my keeper cars. The smallest bypass filter holds over 1.5 quarts of oil too, they are big filters.
 












I used to have the chain rattle at startup, but switched back to Motorcraft filters and the problem has stopped.
 






Never ignore noises. A noise that goes away, isn't fixed, just in a different stage of failure.

Why not just repair the timing?
 






Never ignore noises. A noise that goes away, isn't fixed, just in a different stage of failure.

Why not just repair the timing?


High cost. Vehicle is 13 years old. Already put more money into it than its worth.
 






High cost. Vehicle is 13 years old. Already put more money into it than its worth.

Sure, just give up and drive it to the nearest junkyard. Why fix anything ever, just drive it until it won't move, and then sell it. That's how some people take care of every car they own, which is why a lot of us have to spend extra time, effort, and money, fixing previous owner's neglect.

Installing a pre-oiler is possibly the best thing any owner of these SOHC 4.0 V6's can do. The bypass filter system can keep oil much cleaner, and reduce all wear.
 






Hi Don. Happy fourth. I've been holding my foot down on the gas pedal till my oil pressure comes up then starting the car. Wouldn't this be accomplishing the same thing as installing a pre-oiler?
As far as a repairing the problem, the rattle pretty much goes away. There is a slight noise there but I can't pin point it. There are three chains with three cassettes. You have to pull the engine to get to the rear one. The front two chains you can get two from the front. What do you do, take a chance that its just the front? What if you went through all that and your mechanic found out its the back one. Have the engine pulled and have all three chains replaced and hope everything get put back together right? what would that cost, 3-4 K? I paid 4k for the car last summer and put over 2k into it. Front end work, new mich. tires. At the time the mechanic I used said the vehicle was fine. (come to find out he was more of a chevy man, never heard of timing chain issues with this vehicle). I then started reading on hear about the problems with the chains and the transmission.
I should of done my homework on here first before I bought the car but thought someone else would buy it quick if I didn't.
If I had a clear how to with pics of a reasonable price pre-oiler I would do it. I'm too old to do any serious wrenching on cars any more. Thanks
 






I would (have actually) rely on the WOT trick to buy time on the 4.6 when the tensioners are failing. I'd recommend this to anyone with the 4.6 if the rattle was only at start up.

However, the 4.0 is a different beast. These engines are known to let go (timing wise) with no symptoms, let alone symptoms.

If you only have rattle at startup, I believe you can simply replace the tensioners, as they mount from the outside in. Nothing to take off to get to them.
If you wait, the chains will eat through the guides and using the WOT trick won't help.
 






I'm sorry bogart219 for my last post sounding too harsh. It was a general response to anyone giving up on their car.

My sister wanted to do that with her 2007 Jeep Unlimited last year. It had the well known "death rattle" and the past year the track bar had been replaced. I finally got details from her and learned that nothing had been replaced before, and the truck was at 185k. The shops(alignment shop too that I recommended) she had been to did not suggest replacing ball joints or anything else(until the Firestone place that said it was the track bar(and charged her $900 for that and an alignment)).

I spent hours doing her BJ's, and that didn't fix it. I did the TRE's(4), no joy, then the pitman arm and steering box. I was tired of working on it and she wanted to trade it in the same day, take whatever loss(bad idea, those things are really expensive used). I then did the rest of the parts, plus another track bar(aftermarket this time). New control arms, new hubs, four new TRE's(the others died from the vibration fast), and the truck is good now. The point is leaving a vehicle untouched until something breaks is a bad idea. It costs more because there are so many parts with enough age that they all could need it. You should do a little at a time as you learn what parts are the oldest. That's what the OEM maintenance schedules are best for, they tell you what you should concentrate on, and when.

For the SOHC 4.0 Ford, it has so many parts in the valvetrain, that neglect of any kind is not wise. Cranking the engine to get oil pressure is good, fine, but the oil quality is critical. People forget that, and nobody considers the air filter. The vast majority of oil contaminants come through the air filter, and past the pistons. A clean air filter and dino oil, is better than a bad air filter and synthetic oil. Think about that, and then start buying air filters more often, the best you can get.

The front timing parts of the 4.0 SOHC are more likely than the back to let go, it seems like about 5+ times more likely. If the mileage is over 150k, the rears are on borrowed time, all depending on the condition of the oil through that time. I did the fronts of my 99 truck when I got it at 77,450 miles, plus the rear tensioner. Now at 153k miles the trans is out, it's time to do the fronts, and rear timing cassettes again. I know that's not good to have to do for an engine, major maintenance every 75k miles, but that's the reality of the 4.0 SOHC, past that is good fortune.

FYI, I had Amsoil synthetic in my 99 SOHC the last time I drove it. It was the Signature series, good for 15k or more miles. I had no oil losses, so at 9000 miles it was still virtually full, and almost clear. How could that be, think about it? The air filter I used was an aftermarket Amsoil, a universal cone thing that fit inside of the aftermarket air cleaner(Volant). The oil stayed relatively clean due to the air filter. Now the rest of the story; I check it three weeks later to enjoy seeing the transparent oil again. I was disappointed, it was pitch black. I was puzzled for a few seconds, and then I decided to remove the air cleaner lid, to see the filter. My special air filter was laying in the bottom of the air cleaner, it had fallen off. The clamp wasn't tight enough, it was the first time I had put it on, and used that special oil. I haven't used that level oil since because my other cars use too much oil, and that oil was $9 a quart. But it's worth it if you have no oil losses, and a high end air filter. I'll use it again when I get my 99 transmission fixed soon.
 






Thanks for the input Don and #4. The impending doom of this engine is too much stress for me. As I said above, I'm too old now to mess with any major engine work. No garage, bad knees and back plus limited funds. Will try to sell it (will take a loss) and find another used vehicle to stress me out. Happy fourth!
 






If you can make a use for one, try to trade that for a 98-01 Explorer/Mountaineer, 302 of course. Those are as reliable as you will find within ten years of it(say 2011 model no matter the mileage comparison). Anything can be neglected of course, but the 98-01 302 drivetrain is very reliable given basic care.

I bought my last 98 Limited solely for the rust free chassis. I paid $2000 for it, even though $1500 was more than it was worth to anyone else. I hunted for the 98 Limited as the most optioned, with no fender flares((99-01, which have dozens of holes in the body for them)). This one had been neglected by a young lady, as her first car, for seven years. I swapped the front drive parts from my Mercury into it, and have delivered mail with it since Thanksgiving. No break downs so far, and that's due to the engine/trans. The 5R55E would not have lasted this long given the same neglect, the SOHC 4.0 maybe because that's based on oil quality/cleanliness. Some people do great at having their oil changed, but ignore everything else. You never know when buying a used vehicle.

But as a gamble, I'd take ten or more 98-01 302 Explorers, over one SOHC 4.0 Ford. Go find a few 98-01 302 Limiteds, and see how you like them. $4k should buy one that's super nice, $2k or less for an average version. The Mercury Mountaineer had the same possible options as the Limited, except the memory seat. I'm very partial to the two toned models.
 






Hi don. Now that is the kind of info I need if I sale this vehicle. I don't want or need nothing fancy. I'm just looking for a reliable engine and transmission that don't have these common and predictable problems like certain years of the 4.0 V6 Had. Its a shame cause other than this. I really like the car. So be on a lookout for a 302 V6 is what your saying correct? I don't really care too much about the type of vehicle although a small picup up would be nice. I don't tow or haul anything. I'm just looking for a smaller vehicle with proven engine & tranny history. any other suggestions keep them coming! Thanks again!
 






The 302 is a 5.0 V8. I love my V8. I'm on my second one. The first gave me 10 years of mostly trouble free operation. Entirely stock motor and trans. I'm expecting my current one to easily make the 200k mark, as well.
 






The 302 is a 5.0 V8. I love my V8. I'm on my second one. The first gave me 10 years of mostly trouble free operation. Entirely stock motor and trans. I'm expecting my current one to easily make the 200k mark, as well.

Ditto, we are suggesting the 302 Explorers, which the only down side is the size and mileage if you are after a small vehicle. These weigh close to 4500lbs, which is why mileage is in the teens, and never gets 20mpg. Almost any SUV mid-sized or bigger will get bad gas mileage. If you drive long distances, that matters a lot if you aren't hauling much stuff. If you need the bigger vehicles or only drive sparingly around where you live, then the Explorers can work for you. For the smaller trucks like a Ranger, the engine choices are few, the 4.0 SOHC being the main choice for later trucks.
 






Do you need AWD/4wd?
 












2001 Explorer Sport 4.0 bought new and at 265k miles, it was still running well but leaking a lot of oil. While changing right valve cover gasket I noticed the rear timing chain guide loose (broken). It had ran bad occasionally, but mostly still running great without any timing issues at 265,000 miles, which is a miracle compared to what I've been reading on the forum. So here are the forensics: I used only dino oil, no synthetic or high mileage oil. I tried to change oil every 5000 miles and a few times I got up to 7500 miles. Interestingly enough, I changed air filters pretty often. Probably every other oil change.

I pulled and disassembled the engine, and it was in pretty good shape. Only a few places that were out of spec. Runout-out was out of spec on one crank main and the left camshaft. The right camshaft was in great shape. Additionally the appearance of the right camshaft was nice and oily and pristine, but the left (drivers) side (Pcv side) was dry looking, discolored, and of course out of spec 2007 mustang motor I bought (internal oiling). It's the side with the PCV valve.

Anyway, the right rear cassette was trash, and the left cassette was good. The Primary (crank to Jackshaft) looked great until I removed it, where it broke into many pieces, so I think it would have failed soon. Because most tolerances were at end of life, I studied the costs of engines: New, Rebuilt, Rebuild mine, & Used, as well as used and new vehicles. I decided the cheapest was a used low mileage, 2006+ used engine, and after much searching able to buy a 2007 Mustang 4.0 with 51k miles (confirmed with block VIN & CarFax). I’m changing all the accessories including intake, exhaust, fuel injector rail, etc… I’m also doing the Pro’s and Con’s of changing the cassettes and primary gears with an edge toward changing them, until I read there is a problem pulling the left cassette and the manual says you must pull the left head, which is a no-go for the my decision matrix. Anyway, I saw 2000StreetRod say that the new ones have a circlip so it could disassembled then possibly put back together after installation. If that is then case, then can’t one just drill out the pivot point and remove the cassette instead of pulling the head. When I get time I’m going to pull the front timing case (at the risk of developing an oil leak), just to look things over and see if the pivot can be removed. Any tips would be helpful. I have the OTC timing kit and have read volumes on this issue and been a pretty good shade tree mechanic for 40 years, lol.
One last note: the camshaft appearance of the old motor with overhead external oilers, look better than the new motor with internal oilers.
 



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