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Will Be Blown Again!

Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by Blown, December 14, 2017.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    I had pedestal mount rockers (1.6) under my factory valve covers years ago when I had the ported gt40p's. You can't be gentle with the hammer massaging the corners of the valve covers though.

    You can make them look really good after adding some clearance to them. Just be prepared to spend some time on them.
     
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  3. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    GT40P's for the win with TM Headers and 5lbs of boost. I think that will be plenty for me. That's huge over the stock output.

    Being "Blown" as in blowing-up the drive train is not what I want to be known as. I am running stock AWD and do not want to blow up the T-case or front axle.

    Let's see if I got 5lbs of boost and headers plus lead foot carry the 3 plus WFO equals about 280 HP/350ftlbs of torque at the crank.

    How much can this t-case split before it splits? And front axle take?
    It should be OK, it will have the power of a Saleen or X-Express kit.

    I am pretty sure this combo will work but at 8lbs would likely require the F150 T-case swap?
     
    Last edited: October 10, 2019
  4. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    I found heads with roller rockers and better springs to allow for more lift. I don't need them. I want the low end torque of the stock RV type cam. I also don't want bigger heads. I won't be spinning this thing up to the point of needing larger heads. I have run a higher rpm cam and world products Roush heads 200cc intake runners 2.02 intake and 1.60 exh. valves. I don't want that kind of power in this rig and want to retain some MPG's. It's going to be a fun daily driver, well, when I drive. I am thinking I need some refurbished stock heads. Then I may puke some more cash when I see the condition of the cylinders...................I bet I can get some ideas on here on how to weld-up my own "Y" pipe and high flow cats. If it's outside my ability and what's available, then I'll get it made and can easily take it from there back.
     
  5. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    With your combo at 5lbs boost your fine. You don't need roller rockers or anything like that as you know. Your not planning to rev the crap out of the motor, high boost, or a big cam. Your springs will be fine.
    You already know your right on track. Keep going! I want to see this thing make some boost.
     
  6. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    So I got the passenger header in and it's like I thought No Problem!! Even the collector bolts just popped loose:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: October 12, 2019
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  7. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Did you get a sawzall in there?
     
  8. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Started the cut with an angle grinder, through the outside bolt and part of the flange and finished through with a 6" blade in the saws all. Cut half of the flange off of the exhaust manifold being careful not to cut the exhaust pipe flange.

    I looked at them online and on my rig, but I am still surprised at how inefficient the stock manifolds must be and that Ford didn't do better.
     
  9. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    I am too busy with work to work much on this, but with the slow down on this project I am taking the time to do a few more things. I get an hour or two here and there and this project is a nice break.

    I will get the heads in this coming week to be refurbished. I am going to pull the engine. I got to get it refreshed and sealed-up.

    I want to do a few things regarding the heat generated by stuffing a V8 in these and changing up to the Edge front. It's tight in that engine bay and I could watch the temp gauge go up when I sat in traffic last summer (with all new cooling system). I am adding more underhood heat with headers and the blower and I better have it set up for next summer.

    I got adhesive backed high heat insulation to apply to the firewall and down above the exhaust as it wraps under the firewall. I will also use some to insulate around the A/C stuff close to the header and anything close on the drivers side. I hope that helps with creature comfort/cabin temps. The firewall will get cleaned and this done when the engine is out.
    [​IMG]
    I am utilizing caulking, foam, foam panels, and aluminum sheet to make sure air is only drawn from outside the engine bay in front of the radiator. Ford made the effort to do this but I screwed much of it up when I swapped-on the Ranger Edge front. I got much of this done, need to complete the aluminum panel and extend the foam panels into the grill to isolate air away from the lights and engine heat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I applied 2" aluminum tape to seal along the sides, bottom and top of the radiator/A/C condenser. This will prevent underhood air form being pulled in between the radiator/condenser. I got four electric fans mounted inside to pull with a good amount of clearance from the blower pulley and belt. Combined they pull about 3000cfm which should be about right, but the fans do not cover the recommended 2/3's of the radiator surface area. I am going to get a couple more to mount as pushers in front and set them to come on only when needed.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I am going to ventilate the hood. It's fiberglass and has channels that could be opened to the outside and draw heat out. I will drill a holes with a hole saw inside and cut-in vents to the outside. I should be able to place holes and the outside vents so water will channel away not directly through holes.[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Finally, I know my cold air intake is not isolated from the engine bay and not true cold air. I want to seal a gap from installing the Edge fenders and use foam spray, foam panels and caulk to isolate the front section of the fender where it draws air in. I also need to open-up the size of the airbox intake tube and have a 4" section of tubing to reach into the fender.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: October 26, 2019
  10. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Yesterdays project, I ended up with only a trim piece from the hood louvers I bought. They were too thick to place them where I want them. I am going to use the same perforated aluminum mesh as I used for the radiator grill, cut it to the shape of the trim piece and use 3M's two sided trim tape to stick them on the hood.

    [​IMG]

    I painted the cut out areas black. As proof of this ventilation concept, paints fumes where coming out all the other holes as I sprayed paint in there. Water will drain to the front and there are already holes there in the corners. I need to seal some holes and drill others.
     
    Last edited: October 29, 2019
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  11. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Early birthday:
    Vacuum/Boost gauge:
    [​IMG]

    Wide Band O2:
    [​IMG]

    Stock fuel
    [​IMG]

    Blown fuel
    [​IMG]

    Anybody running 30lb injectors? I have an idea but will need to tune the injector slopes.
    Stock injectors 22.871 High slope and 25.348 Low slope. These values are tuned for the increase in fuel pressure run through the 19lb injector. 19/22.871= about 17% increase 19/25.348= about 25% So a starting place should be 35.1 high and 37.5 Low slope. I will start a bit lower to keep it rich till I can read the wideband O2 meter.
     
    Last edited: October 29, 2019
  12. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    Why the 30lbs injectors, those aren't needed for a NA 302, and way too small for boosted? I'd aim for 42ish if the boost is mild, and 60+ if the boost gets much over 10lbs.
     
  13. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Here's a calculator. 290 horses 8 injector, 80% duty cycle = 27lbs injector. I think these rig actually run higher pressure than most as well.

    Fuel Injector Calculator
     
  14. CDW6212R

    CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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    For boost the safety margin should be much higher than the 80% calculation, and NA it can be closer or under it a bit.

    290rwhp is a big number in these trucks, few have gotten that to the wheels, and they all have 8psi+ of boost, with injectors of 39lbs or more as I recall.

    So 30 pounders aren't overkill for a NA 302, but not really needed. Yet for boost that's not enough, I'd ask other experts for a suggestion on the injector size.
     
  15. Dono

    Dono 347 V8 Limited turbo Elite Explorer

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    I'd say if you already have them, run them.
    if you run out of injector, change em. Your doing your own tuning anyway, so no big deal.

    If you don't have them yet, look in the 42 to 47 range. You can probably find these pretty cheep.

    Yes, fuel pressure is higher at 60psi, and that will help you.
     
  16. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    I ran 30lb injectors in a 351W up to 10lbs of boost, no problem. I data logged injector duty cycles. Flywheel power is what you look at for these calcs. I plugged in a high number at 290 horses and output was 27lb injectors at 80% duty cycle max. 30 pound injectors will be fine and these will flow more at the higher pressures these run.

    I set-up an 8lb Ranger's injectors the same way since it utilized higher fuel pressure as well.. I used the percentage difference in stock flow for high and low slopes, multiplied that difference by the new injectors size and added that much. 35.1 high and 37.5 Low slope in this case.
     
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  17. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    The heads are in the machine shop. I dropped them off today and I couldn't get away from the owner after we started swapping stories. They are in good hands.
     
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  18. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Happy Veterans Day!

    The heads are done, need to pick them up and figure-out what to do with short block..........

    I aired out the hood and fabbed my hood vents.
    [​IMG]


    I drilled 40 - 1 3/8" holes = about an 8X8" opening.
    [​IMG]


    Any moisture that gets in the vents runs down and drips-out on the headlight. I hope icing is not a problem.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: November 11, 2019
  19. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Heads are back and look good!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. 410Fortune

    410Fortune Flood Season 2 Staff Member Moderator

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    instead of pusher fans I would just build a shroud for those 4 puller fans so that air is forced to flow through the entire surface of the radiator heat exchange.
    You did a good job making sure air flows through the whole cooling stack, that radiator would benefit from a shroud. Air is same as water and electricity it will flow through path of least resistance
    It will literally go around your radiator except only where the 4 small fans are.
    Proper shroud on the back side can solve that

    Cant wait to see this come together!
     
  21. Blown

    Blown Active Member

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    Yup, each fan is acting as it's own shroud currently and I need to get more of the radiator covered. In my research 2/3 of the radiator surface should be covered and about 3000cfm. There is little room behind the radiator for a shroud and fans, 2.5" of clearance at the blower belt and pulleys. The fans I bought are 2.5" thick at the motors and taper down to about 1" at the outside. I think I am stuck adding a couple as pushers in the front middle.
     

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