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Window regulator replacement

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by Dr_Z, April 28, 2009.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^



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  1. timp123

    timp123 New Member

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    Another great posting.. used it as a reference to replace the drivers side rear regulator. I called the dealership, 360 something for them to do it... I just did it for $130.00

    Woot!
     
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  3. Partsman109

    Partsman109 Legion of Doom

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    Thanks very much for posting this thread, I like knowing what I am getting into beforehand.

    I just replaced mine last weekend, and like Critz, I was able to use the new regulator with no modification. The arms that are riveted went right into the slides on the new regulator.

    The Ford parts department that I used invoiced me for the passenger front regulator, but actually grabbed the drivers front off the shelf. Partly my fault for not checking before I left. Anyway, I had to get a Dorman one from Advance Auto because I had it all apart. I don't know how long it will last, but at least it's working for now.
     
  4. pharmacist25

    pharmacist25 New Member

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    My motor is running, but something is messed up in regulator. Should I buy the one without the motor? OR just get with motor to make it easier?
     
  5. not8taxi

    not8taxi Active Member

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    i had the same issue...i just went ahead and got the whole regulator...found out the new one was a little bit different than my original....just swapped it out and that was it...goodluck with it :thumbsup:
     
  6. zamboni

    zamboni New Member

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    Challenging, but did it!

    Thank you Dr. Z! Our rear passenger (2002) broke early this summer. I could not find rear regulators online, even searching Amazon, taped it up and ignored it (hey, my wife drove it and did not complain).

    Finally put effort into it, no website seemed to carry REAR. All that I called said the same thing: The front ones wear out often since they're used the most...

    WHAT? I have **KIDS** That rear window went up & down like a cheap network connection.

    One company's salesguy, 1Aauto.com, told me they use www.PartFinder.com since unlike Google, it only searches AUTO-related sites.

    Boom! Found the part, found the OEM brand/model. Googled it -- and Amazon had it! Not sure why my own searches on Amazon did not find it.

    Ordered it, paid $3.99 for next day, and then spent 3+ hours fighting it. You see, I'd forgotten the little nugget from here over the months to re-use the Ford slider.

    No... I spent a couple hours drilling out the rivet and then sorting through my huge "junk bucket" to find a 1/2" bolt, 2 washers and a lock-washer.

    My arms were sliced, scraped, and in pain when I was done. Yeah, I saved a lot on shop time, but a beer wasn't enough. I needed:

    [​IMG]


    EDIT

    My '02 Eddie Bauer V8 rear passenger door needed the DORMAN 748-507, $89 @ Amazon.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QUGKHC

    You can search for the exact regulator from Dorman's own website, then Google (or Amazon) the part number: http://www.dormanproducts.com/
     
    Last edited: September 5, 2011
  7. mdrolando

    mdrolando New Member

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    Amazing post!!!! Its just what i need!!!!! THX :thumbsup:
     
  8. rlgdguy

    rlgdguy Member

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    I paid $99 total from National Auto Part.
     
  9. ybdog

    ybdog New Member

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    Do not fear the rivets

    I just used this procedure to replace the front left regulator. Drilling out the rivets was not as much of a chore as I expected. Things go especially smooth if you stop by the hardware store and pick up the following:

    2 x 1/4" bolts (3/4" long)
    2 x 1/4" lock washers
    2 x 1/4" locknut (I used the kind with the nylon lock material)
    1 small packet of Locktight red

    Make sure that you have a sharp 1/4" drill bit and stay in the center of the rivet as you drill. I drilled mine out prior to loosening the other bolts, then taped the window in the "full up" position while I removed and replaced the regulator.

    BTW, I installed the bolt that replaces the rivet from the back so that the washer and nut were on the inside of the door.

    Total time: appx 45 min-1 hr
     
  10. jpoprock

    jpoprock Active Member

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    Hey guys. My rear driver window has either come off the track, or perhaps it is the regulator. The motor works because I can hear it in there moving. My windows are "tight" because of the rainguards I have installed. I almost think that because the window is so snug at the top, it may have pulled itself out of the track or whatever. I'm not sure if that is even possible.

    I haven't taken the door panel off yet, because I wasn't sure how to. Thanks to this thread, I can take a look! But given my symptoms, I'd rather not mess with taking it apart until I'm ready to fix it. So, given the symptoms, is it most likely to be the regulator? Or did it window simply get pulled out of the mount that holds it (If there is one).

    Since the motor works, should i order the regulator without the motor, or is it easier to replace it with the motor?

    So far, EVERY SINGLE thing that should go wrong with my 02 Explorer Ltd has!!! I'm not sure what's left? I've got 178K on it, but it still runs great.

    Tranny went out. Rebuilt.
    Rear Hub bearings failed.
    Rear springs snapped.
    Rear Passenger Window failed.

    I think that about does it. I hope!
     
  11. LXNavajo_94

    LXNavajo_94 Active Member

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    I actually replaced a drivers rear regulator today myself on an 02. with that being said something I found useful was after you get the door panel apart and gain acess to the window. I got it all the way back up and used a rubber door stop to hold it in place. then when I needed to move it down in order to reconnect it to the new regulator I wedged the door stop back in to hold it where I needed it. I found the best price on a new one at least around here is at Carquest. 121.99 every one else wanted 135.00 and more. They even had it in stock.
     
  12. Ihatecars

    Ihatecars New Member

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    I can't seem to get the to screw loose, pliers wont grip it, and when i wedge a screw driver in there it doesn't stop screw from spinning..
     
  13. vipersinu2

    vipersinu2 Active Member

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    great write up, thanks for the pics. I was carefull not to scratch the tint.

    update whole kit cost me 60.00 from advance auto I purched online and used promo code VISA
     
  14. sfbayjay

    sfbayjay Active Member

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    I'm in the middle of this repair - great thread!

    I'm working on my driver's side front window. So far I've got everything exposed and I've managed to fold little "finger" from the window arm (figure 6) on the side furthest from the door hinges. Access to that one is a snap.

    But - I can't figure out how anyone ever reaches the one on the hinge side of the door?! I'm working blind, reaching in behind where the door handle is - how does anyone ever get the "finger" bent flat - I can't get any leverage to squeeze a pair of pliers together in there and get anything flattened. Any suggestions?!

    Also, assuming I can ever slide the arms out of the regulator guide pieces, do you have to bend the fingers again once the new regulator is installed? Not sure I could ever get them bent again.

    At this point I'm considering just drilling out the rivets (or trying to) and replacing with short 1/4" bolts as others have suggested. But I've never drilled out a rivet before. I have a good drill but no Dremel tool or anything similar. Anybody have a suggestion for me here?

    Thanks!
     
  15. esclamada

    esclamada Active Member

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    Just drill it out, a dremel is not necessary. Use a drill bit that's same size as the bolt you're using. Use red loctite to be sure, cheaper than buying a riveting tool.

    I drilled out my Mountaineer when the window regulator broke and did the same for my lincoln continental, the power lock actuator was secured by a rivet too.



    -----------------------------------------------------------
    MY MOUNTY
    http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums
     
  16. Dr_Z

    Dr_Z New Member

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    As I remember, I got to the front ones through the speaker hole. I think I had to raise or lower the glass to get it to the right height.

    You don't have to worry about bending the fingers back. The width of the glass will hold them in place. Mine have held fine for many years since.
     
  17. sfbayjay

    sfbayjay Active Member

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    Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm going to dive back into this later today and will post an update later...

    Follow-Up:

    Thanks all, for a great thread and good info here. My driver's window is fixed as of around 4:00 EST tonight.

    :)

    I bought my Dorman replacement part at Advance Auto using a discount code "A124" ($25 off on-line purchase of $70 or more) and picked it up at my local store. Dorman part number 741-813 for front driver's side (complete assembly with motor). Cost after discount was $61.41, including tax - not bad.

    A few notes:

    1. Use a hairdryer on medium or hot to soften up the adhesive at the edges of the moisture guard. Once it's warm, you can run a finger around the edge and it peels off pretty well. I did get one small tear, but that's because I was rushing it. Go slow.

    2. Drill out the rivets holding the steel slide arms to the bottom of the window! Unless there's some reason to try and salvage the steel arms for your installation, I found it was WAY easier to drill out the rivets and replace with nut/bolt/washer/threadlocker assembly. I used a 7/32" bit in a standard corded drill and had no problems breaking off the heads of the two rivets. Took all of 5 minutes to do both sides.

    3. Keep the original brass/gold looking nuts that attach the regulator motor and slides to the door. The Dorman assembly didn't come with any hardware - just the threaded studs - so I had to reuse the 5 mounting nuts.

    4. Hardest part (for me) was getting the new regulator/motor assembly back into the door through the little access port. I found, for driver's side, it was easiest to put in the bottom of the hinge-side track first. Shoved the whole hinge-side track into the door, then followed with the door-latch-side track. Using the stereo speaker hole for access, I could grab the tracks and get everything into place with some effort.

    All in all, took me about 90 minutes to take everything apart and reassemble. Now that I've done it once, I think I could easily do the job in 45 minutes.

    Thanks again to the OP for a great thread with great pics. Helped me out a ton! :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: January 24, 2013
  18. D Hook

    D Hook Elite Explorer

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    Just broke mine this morning. Drivers side front. Heard the cable snap.

    Any links to parts stores that carries these that you guys recommend? I'm seeing them on Ebay for about $65.

    Did the rear drivers door last summer. Of course, this one breaks when it 3° out!
     
  19. sfbayjay

    sfbayjay Active Member

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    I got mine (Dorman part) at a local Advance Auto Parts - $61 after on-line discount and picked up at store an hour later. See my earlier post...

    Good luck! It's not too bad, really.
     
  20. D Hook

    D Hook Elite Explorer

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    Dang--Wish I would've read that before I ordered one off Ebay.

    Went to the Advance website and found they have one in stock so I ordered it online and saved 20%, which brings it to the same price I paid for the one I ordered off Ebay. So now I'll have two.

    Anyone want to buy a window regulator? Drivers (left) side.
     
  21. D Hook

    D Hook Elite Explorer

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    Got it done today. Thanks to sfbayjay for the Advanced Auto tip. Ordered it online and saved some $. Didn't want to wait until next week for the ebay one to arrive because the weather was better today and next week will be a busy time for me at work.

    Be aware, the most recent ones from Dorman have the motor rotated 90° from the OEM model, making it trickier to stuff into the door. On the OEM, the butt of the motor points straight up. One the one I installed, the motor points towards the rear of the vehicle when the door is closed. I thought about taking off the motor but finally got it to fit and finagled it into postion.

    Rivets drilled out easily and replaced with 1/4" bolts. Seriously doubt this will be the last time I'll have to replace this, depending on how long I keep the truck, so I'm keeping the extra regulator. If I sell the truck down the road, I'll through it in.

    Be sure when looking at the pics Dr. Z so generously posted, to follow the order of dissasembly when taking off the plastic handle guard and the switches panel. If you don't take the platice handle guard off first, the switch panel will be much harder, if not impossible to remove without breaking a tab.

    The toughest part of the whole thing was getting the plastic wire connectors to separate. Cold garage, cold hands, made it harder than it probably should be.

    Many thanks to all those who gave the extra tips. Made it much easier. Taking my time to not break anything, I think I spent about 1 to 1.5 hours doing this job.
     

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